275/40/18 NT01's

[2013dibgt]

Front sway bar is stock, only mod up front is MM camber plates. Rear is behaving nicely with the watts-link.

I've installed the cortex kit (w/o torque arm) and the current pivot point is set at the second hole from the top (there's four total).

OK..based on this info I would say your next best move would be to look into an adjustable FSB. I've got the Eibach FSB on mine with the Cortex WL and an 18mm RSB out back (amoung other things). I'm using the middle hole on the Eibach FSB which if I remember correctly adds about 20lbs more stiffness then the factory FSB was (Brembo GT).

I would think the Eibach set at the softest position would put you where you need to be to reduce some of the understeer and is a fairly inexpensive mod to try. Your current WL setting sounds about right where it needs to be for what you have in terms of parts and agree with the other poster that lowering it would make things worse for you. Raising it probably wouldnt be a good idea either so I think your stuck in terms of adjustment back there.

My Cortex WL is also set to the third set of holes down from the top. I used to have it where yours is but it was causing the ass end to rotate too quickly compared to the front based on all the other mods I have.

 

[13Boss#3328]

22mm rear sway bar.

 

[F.D. Sako]

I'm loosing track of things now
Was the stock bar 24mm? If so, i'll have to check 22mm prices online. If they're cheap enough, I'll give them a try!

EDIT: Stock base boss rsb was 25mm

I was going to try the 3rd pivot point on the wattslink, but not too sure about it now... Then again, I have a 3-day event coming up. There should be plenty of track time to try different things. Thanks for the input 2013dibgt!

 

[13Boss#3328]

I'm loosing track of things now
Was the stock bar 24mm? If so, i'll have to check 22mm prices online. If they're cheap enough, I'll give them a try!

EDIT: Stock base boss rsb was 25mm

I was going to try the 3rd pivot point on the wattslink, but not too sure about it now... Then again, I have a 3-day event coming up. There should be plenty of track time to try different things. Thanks for the input 2013dibgt!

I run stock suspension with 22mm rsb and cc plate. With the square setup the car is very neutral. I know you have watts link with multiple adjustment points, so you can play with it too.
It is not going to be a bad idea to buy a 22mm rsb ($80 from dealer I believe) and take it with you to the track. The installation is about 30 min and with help it is 10-15 min. Cheap, quick and immediate results.

 

[F.D. Sako]

Here's the next question Do you remember the part number of the bar, or yr/model car the 22mm came off of?

I noticed the eibach front sway bar is stiffer than the stock one, even on the softest setting. Wouldn't that increase mid-corner understeer up front?
Is there an adjustable sway bar out there that's softer than our stock bars.

 

[13Boss#3328]

Here's the next question Do you remember the part number of the bar, or yr/model car the 22mm came off of?

I noticed the eibach front sway bar is stiffer than the stock one, even on the softest setting. Wouldn't that increase mid-corner understeer up front?
Is there an adjustable sway bar out there that's softer than our stock bars.

2011+ base V6 coupe run 22mm rsb.

I do not know the answer for the second question.

 

[cobrarob]

Here's the next question Do you remember the part number of the bar, or yr/model car the 22mm came off of?

I noticed the eibach front sway bar is stiffer than the stock one, even on the softest setting. Wouldn't that increase mid-corner understeer up front?
Is there an adjustable sway bar out there that's softer than our stock bars.

Talked to Sam Strano yesterday,I ordered his adj rsb,think he said the softest set is like a 22 bar.We have different suspensions but I'll let you know how it feels next week

 

[2013dibgt]

Here's the next question Do you remember the part number of the bar, or yr/model car the 22mm came off of?

I noticed the eibach front sway bar is stiffer than the stock one, even on the softest setting. Wouldn't that increase mid-corner understeer up front?
Is there an adjustable sway bar out there that's softer than our stock bars.

not sure where I go this info from at this point but my notes on the Eibach FSB rates are listed below

Eibach bar: 36mm (1.42") tubular and adjustable
Eibach measured bar rates: 3 position adjustable
P1=340 lbs/in
P2=400 lbs/in
P3=450 lbs/in

According to Strano's Site the factory front FSB is listed as follows:

Ford 34.6mm hollow (2011+ GT, Brembo, Boss): 436 lbs/in

I would take these numbers with a grain of salt but I believe it to be probably pretty close. Maybe Eibach would be willing to spill the beans officialy if given a call but they seem to keep the info pretty hidden. I know it took me a long time to find the number above. And that is of course assuming they are correct

 

[SlowJim]

I think BMR makes a stiffer bar. A lot of guys run whiteline in the front as well. No hard numbers but it's 35mm and solid so should be much stiffer than stock. Whiteline's bar also includes some nice adjustable end links, which you have to buy seperately with every other sway bar.

 

[2013dibgt]

I guess there are a few ways to go about addressing the understeer depending on which camp you are in:

One way would be to bump up the RSB rate to a stiffer one and then maintain the current factory FSB

Another way would be to maintain the current 18mm RSB and goto an adjustable FSB that includes settings which will allow for a softer rate then the factory FSB

Yet another way would be to rip and replace and go adjustble all around and plan carfully on which bars you choose in terms of their offered adjustabilty settings

My thoughts are that if you bump up the rear bar rate and the rear end of the car is currently behaving good then you may end up chasing your tail. Now if the OP already had an adjustable FSB and then thru trial and error exhausted all options availble on the settings of that FSB then I feel it makes sense to start playing with the RSB rate next. Thru past experience I've learned this the hard way

If it were me I would focus on trying to fix the end that is "broke" first and leave the end that isn't alone but thats just my 2cents of course.

 

[F.D. Sako]

Thanks alot for the tips guys!

I just placed an order on Whiteline's FSB, based on all your inputs.

I chose Whilteline, because of the available 4 point adjustability and the included adjustable endlinks. I couldn't find any stiffness data on the FSB, so I took the risk purchasing it - hopping some of the settings will be softer than the stock bar.

I found JC Whitney to be the cheapest out there, and a quick google search came up with discount code "WELCOME10", which took another 20% off, bringing final price to just over $202. I'm hoping that's a good deal and I made the right choice on the FSB!

 

[SlowJim]

There is a chart on the Whiteline site that helps with figuring out how much stiffer their bars are but it doesn't cover our front bar. However, for the rear...

Ford 20mm Solid (2005-2010 GT): 96 lbs/in
Ford 22mm Solid (2011+ V-6 standard): 147 lbs/in
Ford 24mm Solid (2011+ 5.0, GT500): 193 lbs/in
Ford 25mm Solid (Boss 302): 250 lbs/in
Ford 26mm Solid (Boss 302 Laguna Seca): 275 lbs/in
Strano rear bar: 162/185/225

Whiteline bar is 38/60/85/113% stiffer than my 2011 GT bar depending on which hole I use, compared to the Strano bar which is softer on all settings except full stiff (and even then is only 16% stiffer). I imagine the front would be similar.

http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/bulletins/BL-281.pdf

 

[F.D. Sako]

Looks like the shoreline FSB may be stiffer than stock FSB, even at the softest setting, which won't be helpful in my case. May have to stiffen the rear out as well, or go with a different front bar.

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

There is a chart on the Whiteline site that helps with figuring out how much stiffer their bars are but it doesn't cover our front bar. However, for the rear...

Ford 20mm Solid (2005-2010 GT): 96 lbs/in
Ford 22mm Solid (2011+ V-6 standard): 147 lbs/in
Ford 24mm Solid (2011+ 5.0, GT500): 193 lbs/in
Ford 25mm Solid (Boss 302): 250 lbs/in
Ford 26mm Solid (Boss 302 Laguna Seca): 275 lbs/in
Strano rear bar: 162/185/225

Whiteline bar is 38/60/85/113% stiffer than my 2011 GT bar depending on which hole I use, compared to the Strano bar which is softer on all settings except full stiff (and even then is only 16% stiffer). I imagine the front would be similar.

http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/bulletins/BL-281.pdf

I assume based on the numbers and context above that the Strano rear bar shown is his "older" 22mm bar?

 

[SlowJim]

Not sure, I just used the data from the current RSB listing off his website.

 

[F.D. Sako]

I swapped back to the OEM 25mm RSB from the 18mm, based on Filip's recommendation from Cortex. But I'm still pursueing a 22mm RSB, because I believe that may provide the best balance.

Also, based on previous experience and comments from this forum, I knew I would get over steer being back to the stock setup and square tires, so I dropped the wattslink pivot point one hole down.

Going to Summit Point this weekend to test it out. Hoping I made the right choices!

 

[TMSBOSS]

I swapped back to the OEM 25mm RSB from the 18mm, based on Filip's recommendation from Cortex. But I'm still pursueing a 22mm RSB, because I believe that may provide the best balance.

Also, based on previous experience and comments from this forum, I knew I would get over steer being back to the stock setup and square tires, so I dropped the wattslink pivot point one hole down.

Going to Summit Point this weekend to test it out. Hoping I made the right choices!

Sako

Good luck at Summit. Enjoy the weekend

Tracy

 

[F.D. Sako]

Thanks, Tracy!

Were you planning on going to SCMC's fall fest in November?

 

[TMSBOSS]

Thanks, Tracy!

Were you planning on going to SCMC's fall fest in November?

Want to.

Will all depend upon work schedule.