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315 R6s on all four corners

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Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
I think it's using 305 or 315 slicks that ruins bearings. There may be some added strain from increasing scrub radius.

In theory, using a hub centric spacer isn't any different than using a wheel with the same equivalent offset/backspacing without the spacer. The only negative are for guys who don't use longer studs, and I think most of us know better here.
 
Grant 302 said:
I think it's using 305 or 315 slicks that ruins bearings. There may be some added strain from increasing scrub radius.
Reinforces my decision to put fresh FRPP hubs on this spring despite no play in the two year old ones that were on the car.

Grant 302 said:
In theory, using a hub centric spacer isn't any different than using a wheel with the same equivalent offset/backspacing without the spacer. The only negative are for guys who don't use longer studs, and I think most of us know better here.
Yep
20130219_100359_zps97d7dda0.jpg

Hopefully they know better now too........

20130219_100409_zpsd5fa3ce6.jpg
 
cp85gt said:
A 15 mm spacer is about .6". What are the reasons for not using a spacer this large? I've used 1/4" spacers before to negate some tire rub but never anything this large to overcome such a large backspace difference. Has anyone with a 10.5" Enkei in the rear have clearance issues? I've seen several pictures of cars loaded in turns with the top of the tire "tucked" into the fender, most recently by Arizona Boss with the 315 Hoosiers mounted, although he did have his fenders rolled. While I don't think of my car as slammed, it is lowered on AST coilovers with a rear ride height lower than those of you that installed the "P" springs.

Under corner load they'll work fine, since the axle's motion will tuck the wheel into the fender. Even compression on both wheels may induce a rub. Smaller OD tires, taller bump stops, and rolled fenders will help eliminate/mitigate the issue.

Don't go off any sweet jumps :). BTW, thanks for sharing the coupon for Discount Tire's ebay store. That's a great price on NT01s

FWIW, I didn't have any rub issues with 305/35 NT01s on et38 18x10.5" Enkei PF01s. Ride height was probably a little higher than Arizona Boss'


DG#56 said:
There are a lot of reasons not to use a large spacer, but it has to be considered in the entire setup. The larger the spacer the more strain on the bearings.

The same argument can be made for a lower offset wheel. At least front hubs are a piece of cake and fairly inexpensive to change on these cars. You can probably swap them out in less time than it takes to remove the wheels.

Keep extreme heat away from the hubs (brake ducts, 2 piece rotors) and it should last longer.
 
Grant 302 said:
I think it's using 305 or 315 slicks that ruins bearings. There may be some added strain from increasing scrub radius.

In theory, using a hub centric spacer isn't any different than using a wheel with the same equivalent offset/backspacing without the spacer. The only negative are for guys who don't use longer studs, and I think most of us know better here.

Same principle. It's definitely compounded by pushing the wheel farther out from the bearings whether by spacer or by wheel width.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
cloud9 said:
Reinforces my decision to put fresh FRPP hubs on this spring despite no play in the two year old ones that were on the car.
Yep
20130219_100359_zps97d7dda0.jpg

Hopefully they know better now too........

20130219_100409_zpsd5fa3ce6.jpg

:eek: :) Yeah...forgot to check if they switched to longer studs when I was there in November...space ran out for me at the end of March :( And I expect it to be hot as balls again in May.

DG#56 said:
Same principle. It's definitely compounded by pushing the wheel farther out from the bearings whether by spacer or by wheel width.

But *most* of the time with the positive offsets for all of the wheels we use, spacers are often bringing the center of the rim closer to the center of the bearing. It's not like it is with classic/muscle cars where you are often starting with negative or small offsets and backspacing and are pushing the center of the wheel faaar away from the bearings.
 
110
0
If I decide to go this route I'll get a set of the new hubs with ARP studs in them and use the studs in the spacer kit with the original hubs as the back-up set. Has anyone had a problem with rear studs yet? How many of you have swapped in ARP's in the rear either due to breakage or just preventative? I do have a set of stiffer springs, 550's and 250's to replace the current 450's and 200's, that I'll swap in along with an 18mm rear bar. That should help keep the tires off the fenders, although I'll only use this set on the track, provided I can get the car on my trailer as I haven't tried yet. Otherwise I'll be driving to and from the track on them.
So far this set-up sounds feasible. No one has posted up any concerns or stories that will give me any dubious internet fame. ;D I'll have to decide soon on this to have the wheels available for May.
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
Moderator
8,730
2,734
Arizona, USA
I have swapped in ARP studs in the rear. I highly suggest this to anyone that is taking wheels on/off repeatedly for track days switch to ARP studs.
 
147
60
Did you swap in 1/2" or 5/8" studs?
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
Moderator
8,730
2,734
Arizona, USA
DocB said:
Did you swap in 1/2" or 5/8" studs?

1/2".

Front:
http://fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=10386 or preferably http://fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=10407

Rear:
http://fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=10388
 
141
4
ArizonaBOSS said:
1/2".

Front:
http://fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=10386 or preferably http://fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=10407

Rear:
http://fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=10388

thanks for the links. I will be ordering a set for front and rear soon!
 
cloud9 said:
Fortunately no BMO members were harmed during that event. ;)
 
110
0
If anyone is serious about upgrading to the ARP hub and rear stud package, the cheapest place I have found so far is Tasca Ford. They sell the hubs for $222.20 and the rear stud kit for $114.37.
 
ArizonaBOSS said:
Those are good prices indeed.

Found some more 315s...arrived yesterday courtesy of Hoosier Contingency :)

10570348_10100889411149924_5552436432413648854_n.jpg
Ordered a set of 295/315s myself today. Hope to use them to win some contingency in May. I am anxious to find out how they will work on the 11" rims. Is there a practical way to measure the functional tread width of the 295s and 315s on 11" wheels compared to the 315s I currently have mounted on 10.5s and 295s on 9.5s?
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
Moderator
8,730
2,734
Arizona, USA
cloud9 said:
Ordered a set of 295/315s myself today. Hope to use them to win some contingency in May. I am anxious to find out how they will work on the 11" rims. Is there a practical way to measure the functional tread width of the 295s and 315s on 11" wheels compared to the 315s I currently have mounted on 10.5s and 295s on 9.5s?

Not 100% sure on that, I've been doing Mk1 eyeball measurements of the tires mounted side by side, laid down on their side.

Wingrider said:
So... you would hang these on 10.5 wheels and run it square with rolled fenders up front?

Precisely what I'm doing.
 

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