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Let’s talk tires. I’m currently running a 295/40-18 on a 10.5 wheel. The car is still N/A (slow) and I’m entertaining the idea of trying out a set of 275/35-18 on a 9.5. I’d be dropping roughly eight pounds of weight in wheel/tires on each corner.

I know the old adage the wider the better. It I’d be curious to see feedback on going 20mm skinnier. I’m restricted by tires sizes I can run (it needs to be a Falken). Any feedback is welcome.
 
My apologies if this has been discussed, but how are you 3v guys mounting the brake ducting hoses to the bumper? I tried going where the lower grille is but the hose impacts something immediately behind it on either side. Open to any sort of suggestions and pictures are always helpful if you have them!
 

ChrisM

Mostly harmless.
1,180
1,419
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
South Carolina
What kit are you trying to mount? Might help to identify the issue. Everything I've seen just has you drilling through all the material behind the lower grille inserts and mounting there.
 
It’s the Vorshlag 3” kit for the 14” brembo calipers. The hoses themselves are relatively stiff which makes it a little more difficult. Do you have any examples of a good setup?
 
It looks like my power steering pump is finally kicking the bucket. I bought a cooler to install but noticed the motorcraft pumps are sold out on rock auto. Has anyone had good luck with other pumps or should I go with oem remans?
 
100
109
Utah
I went through 3 pumps on my 2007 Saleen Parnelli Jones Mustang in less than 2,000 miles with track use. The first replacement was from American Muscle and an expensive remfg. It was inconvenient to sent back to American Muscle so I bought an Autozone remfg one. Cheaper but more convenient but still a remfg. That one failed in a week. Easy to get a replacement remfg from Autozone which I did and that one failed too. No one sells new power steering pumps. So the next one was a remfg from the Ford Dealer and that was better but I also installed a high quality in-line filter for the power steering pump.
 
6,361
8,184
Hey guys, I kinda had an overheat problem with my 2010 F150 ..eerrrr I meant mustang..wink, wink. While towing the banana back from Pa to Fla. On the way up the temp gauge pegged for a moment, (in SC) so I backed off, sort of drove around it until I could get to a station. I added 2quarts of water, the rad was full, I drove the rest of the way up hauling an empty trailer without issue. I also checked the oil, no milk shakes, no misfires, no engine codes. On the way back with the trailer loaded, I ran the first 1K miles without issue until I got to Fla, where the temp was about 88 degrees ambient. At that point the temp gauge went up again, and..again.. I drove around the gauge the next 300 or so miles home. I checked the car over and no codes, no milkshakes on the dipstick, no water needed.
I replaced the water pump, thermostat and checked everything over 3 weeks prior to leaving in order to avoid issues. Drove the truck..err car, everywhere..no problems. I was thingking maybe
1. rad cap might be bad
2.new thermostat might be bad
3. an air bubble in the system that didn't work it's way out, even though I "burped" the system..along those lines, I also ran the heater, however, if I'm not mistaken this vehicle doesn't use a heater control valve that throttles the water to the heater core, but rather an air door..in other words, the heater is flowing water all the time.
any insight would be appreciated.
It's a 4.6 3 valve and an 8 speed trans.
 

Boone

Professional Thread Killer
I've had two cooling issues with my 3V, so I'll pass the info on. FYI, I run an 55gpm electric coolant pump and have a Mishimoto radiator.
1. I had air in the system after a new motor went in. Couldn't identify the root cause as it was intermittent, so I just rolled in to an autocross. The thrashing helped, and I went on my way.
2. Saw water temps climbing to 240 degrees on the back stretch at VIR (confirm with data log). Found a slight leak on the lower radiator hose connection. Fixed it, and never saw temps over 220 degrees since.

Fabman put a petcock on the coolant crossover tube on Frankenstang. This is the highest point of the system, and proves he is smarter than the Ford engineers.
 
147
60
I would like to revisit the power steering pump premature failing phenomenon.
On the FR, I use Ford Remans. Although more expensive, and do not have a warranty, consensus says they last the longest and I'm not willing to experiment with others.
Do you think it could be because we are running them at super high RPMs for long periods of time?
 
Can someone educate me on the GT500 oil pan swap? I was looking for this as a alternative to the Moroso/canton pans.

install straight forward, what year pan should I look for, is there a baffle for it?
 
6,361
8,184
just so you know, the fix for my overheat was to get rid of the aftermarket water pump and go to a factory one. there is no ford dealer around me so I'm stuck with aftermarket parts for the most part. My bad for not comparing the 2 before the installation.
Lesson is..don't make the same mistake I did.
Brand X is on the right

8OQLixgl.jpg
 
Looking for some advice on the 2006 3v 5 speed I bought about a month ago. 97,500 miles and the clutch engagement point is literally at the floor. I have enough pedal travel to drive it, works fine, but the engagement point is so low it makes things difficult/annoying.

I'm planning on a clutch kit, divorced fluid res, MGW this winter, but curious what the "issue" is? Thoughts?
 

PatientZero

@restless_performance
825
865
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Kansas City, Missouri
Looking for some advice on the 2006 3v 5 speed I bought about a month ago. 97,500 miles and the clutch engagement point is literally at the floor. I have enough pedal travel to drive it, works fine, but the engagement point is so low it makes things difficult/annoying.

I'm planning on a clutch kit, divorced fluid res, MGW this winter, but curious what the "issue" is? Thoughts?

Probably just time for the clutch to be replaced based on the mileage. I'd imagine it's still factory. Are these cars still a cable clutch or hydraulic? If cable you could try adjusting the cable or replacing it if it's stretched out.
 

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