4" or larger brake duct kit for 2012 B302?

[lbp]

Anyone have information on a 4" or larger front brake ducting kit for the 2012 B302?
The 3" factory kit is lacking.

- I've looked at the 4" Vorshlag rotor duct plates, however it looks like their inlet kit (which mounts further inboard than the oem fog light location) is only 3"(?)

http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info.php?cPath=141_142_280&products_id=634

Thanks in advance for any other information.
Lee.

 

[neema]

It was super expensive, but there was a 302R brake duct kit that had a 4" opening for the 2011-2012 mustang fascia.

Don't know where to get it now, but you can see them here:

 

[lbp]

It was super expensive, but there was a 302R brake duct kit that had a 4" opening for the 2011-2012 mustang fascia.

Don't know where to get it now, but you can see them here:

Instead of sourcing a new set of 4" rotor ducts, I'm thinking to modify the existing plate by adding a second 3" duct to it.
Has anyone tried this?
Any information as to whether the stock duct location on the plate is optimal or not & where the second duct may be best placed if this is possible?
thanks.

Coleman has some good stuff: http://www.colemanracing.com/Brake-Ducts-C98.aspx?s=OrderBy%20ASC&c=98&p=0

 

[F.D. Sako]

What about adding an inline fan? May be easier if you can't manage to fit a second hose or find the parts for the 4".

For me, the 3" is enough... I just may have to reduce the bends in the hose to achieve a more efficient flow in the future.

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

Vorshlag makes a great set of backing plates for 4" ducting: http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info.php?cPath=141_142_280&products_id=634



You can order the 302R inlet plates from Rehagen (call--not on website).

 

[PeteInCT]

Lee, what rotors/calipers are you using?

-Pete

 

[steveespo]

It was super expensive, but there was a 302R brake duct kit that had a 4" opening for the 2011-2012 mustang fascia.

Don't know where to get it now, but you can see them here:

Paging Mr. Black, we have a new fabrication project for you. 4" round inlet welded to .060 sheet steel cut to fog light insert size and powder coated (Red for me of course). What do you think, $100 a set?
Steve

Pete, Lee runs big ass 15" rotor like me.

 

[PeteInCT]

If he's not on 6 pots then it may make more of an improvement than 1" more on the duct. I don't suspect you would actually get that much more air through to impact temps much.

 

[lbp]

Lee, what rotors/calipers are you using?

-Pete

Pete, I run Baer 6R with Baer R-spec rotor/hat.
The 4" duct is supposed to make a big difference in shedding heat compared to the 3".
I will probably go with the Vorshlag 4" oval (out of stock for 2 weeks) & fab a 4" Coleman aluminum duct to the stock Boss inlet location.
I recently went through a set of rotors in one day, so something's gotta be done.
Hopefully the 4" duct will help.
More than one brake guy has told me that it should make a significant difference.
I also have fabbed up some Baer hats for the 6R that will accept standard 12 bobbin rotors.
If anyone is running 6R brakes and wants to know more about these hats, feel free to PM me.
...The Baer 6R does stop the car quite well at any speed.
- I can haul it down hard and late from around 160 with no problems, no fade, no drama (except destroying the rotors).
I am also running Ford Motorsport ABS which is important to the equation.

...The rotor setup from Baer is 355x32.
I've been told the 32 thickness is a little on the thin side for these heavy cars in terms of heat soak-ability; 355x35 would be better.
The Baer setup "should" take up to to a 355x34, but obviously there would be a sacrifice in pad life.
Brembo Annular 48 or 72 vane rotor is also an (expensive) option using the hat I have had made for the 6R.

 

[PeteInCT]

Worth a try, its only $$$ ;-) I'd be curious if it dropped temps that much.

Which rotors? Best I've seen was Coleman's that were sent to Diversified Cryo for the deep freeze. Rotors lasted me forever, big difference. I get the impression that sending rotors out for a custom freeze job to DC is not the same as buying production line cryo rotors.

 

[lbp]

Worth a try, its only $$$ ;-) I'd be curious if it dropped temps that much.

Which rotors? Best I've seen was Coleman's that were sent to Diversified Cryo for the deep freeze. Rotors lasted me forever, big difference. I get the impression that sending rotors out for a custom freeze job to DC is not the same as buying production line cryo rotors.

I think pad choice makes a big difference in life expectancy of the rotor too..

 

[lbp]

Worth a try, its only $$$ ;-) I'd be curious if it dropped temps that much.

Which rotors? Best I've seen was Coleman's that were sent to Diversified Cryo for the deep freeze. Rotors lasted me forever, big difference. I get the impression that sending rotors out for a custom freeze job to DC is not the same as buying production line cryo rotors.

The best thing about Coleman is the price, usually less than half of the big names.
Even if used once & replaced... Coleman is still ahead $-wise.

 

[dmichaels]

Instead of sourcing a new set of 4" rotor ducts, I'm thinking to modify the existing plate by adding a second 3" duct to it.
Has anyone tried this?
Any information as to whether the stock duct location on the plate is optimal or not & where the second duct may be best placed if this is possible?
thanks.

Coleman has some good stuff: http://www.colemanracing.com/Brake-Ducts-C98.aspx?s=OrderBy%20ASC&c=98&p=0

Was recently thinking about doing this. I have couple ideas...

 

[VoodooBoss]

The Brenbo race rotors are very expensive and one of the reasons I went with Stoptech. The Stoptechs I have are 355x35.

 

[steveespo]

Pete, Lee runs big ass 15" rotor like me.

My mistake I thought you had 380mm rotors Lee.

 

[lbp]

My mistake I thought you had 380mm rotors Lee.

Steve,
what rim size & caliper do you run with the 380mm?

 

[Black Boss]

Paging Mr. Black, we have a new fabrication project for you. 4" round inlet welded to .060 sheet steel cut to fog light insert size and powder coated (Red for me of course). What do you think, $100 a set?
Steve

+1

Race Red for me too 8)

 

[steveespo]

Steve,
what rim size & caliper do you run with the 380mm?

I've got the 15" GT500 setup. I use blowfish racing Team Dynamics 18"x10" wheels, 15mm H&R spacers on the front and 285/305/645-18 contis or 295/305-18 Toyo R888s on them.
Inexpensive high performing setup with Carbotech XP24/XP12 or 20 pads. Also just use Ford rotors, Cheap and last forever. I have 3 sets and have cut 2 of them with no cracks. The rear 13.8" rotors perform well but I have heat stressed 2 of them this season, Race ABS module feeds a lot of rear brake in, I plan on doing rear cooling soon.
Steve

 

[ford20]

It was super expensive, but there was a 302R brake duct kit that had a 4" opening for the 2011-2012 mustang fascia.

Don't know where to get it now, but you can see them here:

I was talking to a guy at Carlisle about them as he had them on his car and he was saying that it was $1000 for the brake ducts and hosing. I do have to say though that it did look pretty nice with the molded carbon fiber inserts.

If he's not on 6 pots then it may make more of an improvement than 1" more on the duct. I don't suspect you would actually get that much more air through to impact temps much.

]We were seeing 490°F at the front calipers before, with 3" ducting and Carbotech XP20 pads...



Now its down to 430°F with the same pads and 4" ducting... when we make the backing plate opening 4" it should get even more airflow and possibly go lower. I hope.

Now what the rotor temps are is something entirely different but it seems like the extra inch is doing it's job in keeping the rotors a wee bit cooler. The reason I say that is because from my understanding the heat from the rotor gets passed along into the pads and pistons so with a cooler temperature on the calipers (right where the pistons are) it makes sense (in my little brain) that less heat is being transferred so the rotors aren't getting hot enough to transfer the same amount of heat as before.

But Rotor temps aren't really a big concern since they begin to melt at like 3000 degrees so they things I would be a bit more worried about is the fluid temperature, brake pad temperature as well as the temperature of the hubs correct?

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

If you have real race pads, the pad temp doesn't matter so much. The caliper temp is important though as it is indicative of fluid temperature (which will be higher than the caliper). Rotor temp won't really matter, you're not gonna melt em.

If you're on dual purpose street/track pads like an HPS or HP+, then pad temperature matters--because those are useless above 750-800* F at the pad surface. You will know when this happens because the pedal will still be stiff but there is minimal deceleration. Also there is the smell. You won't get a good read on pad temperature by looking at the caliper--the pad temperature will be MUCH higher as it is the actual friction interface in the system (along w/ rotor).

For reference, PF01s are supposed to be good up to 2000*F (optimal below 1400) and DTC70s good up to 1600*F.