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S197 @4o6racing Build Thread Profile - S197 Mustangs

5,017
5,333
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
I know 3 pass radiators have been discussed before, and some are advertised as 3 pass but aren’t a true 3 pass design. @Fabman has a nice write up on how he modified his Fluidyne by welding plates in the end tank. I ordered Fluidyne part #FHP30X-05MU-3P, which they advertise as a 3 row, 3 pass. This part number has the proper plates welded in the end tanks similar to Sal’s.

View attachment 71624
Bingo, that’s it! I didn’t know they made those. Kenny Brown offers a radiator like that but this is the first I’ve seen besides his and the ones I make. Great find!
 
Bingo, that’s it! I didn’t know they made those. Kenny Brown offers a radiator like that but this is the first I’ve seen besides his and the ones I make. Great find!

Nice info on the radiators here. I bought the Kenny brown triple pass after learning from your teachings on the subject Sal. Thanks by the way! Anyways, the Kenny brown triple pass is the fluidyne radiator a couple posts up. Branding and all. Looking forward to seeing how it does.
 
720
1,043
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
SoCal
Short block is scheduled for delivery tomorrow. I ordered it December 2nd. A bit longer than the 3-5 week estimate, but not too bad considering the holidays and they were closed between Christmas and New Years.

What a time suck the oil cooler and ducting turned out to be - pretty much spent the entire weekend to get it mocked up. I started with a mount that I bought from 06mach1 which hangs the cooler from the radiator support, fittings on the bottom. The 948 is large enough I wanted the bottom of the cooler secured as well, and I wasn’t keen on the AN fittings hanging down in the open section of the lower grill - right where 80% of the road debris comes blasting in. By turning it sideways, it was possible to move it back closer to the radiator. The angle iron added to the radiator core mount doubled as a bracket for the ducting. It’s been 10+ years since I’ve fired up the MIG torch, so I spent a fair bit of time getting back up to speed and building a lower frame for the ducting. Add 3 trips to the hardware store for this and that……hard to understand why this project drug on!

Here’s a few shots of the the mock up - still need to blow it apart and spray paint the bare metal brackets. I won’t put it all back together until the engine is back in the car.

1AE7F13D-36A3-45F6-94F7-C21DD2FB78CB.jpeg
 
5,017
5,333
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
Short block is scheduled for delivery tomorrow. I ordered it December 2nd. A bit longer than the 3-5 week estimate, but not too bad considering the holidays and they were closed between Christmas and New Years.

What a time suck the oil cooler and ducting turned out to be - pretty much spent the entire weekend to get it mocked up. I started with a mount that I bought from 06mach1 which hangs the cooler from the radiator support, fittings on the bottom. The 948 is large enough I wanted the bottom of the cooler secured as well, and I wasn’t keen on the AN fittings hanging down in the open section of the lower grill - right where 80% of the road debris comes blasting in. By turning it sideways, it was possible to move it back closer to the radiator. The angle iron added to the radiator core mount doubled as a bracket for the ducting. It’s been 10+ years since I’ve fired up the MIG torch, so I spent a fair bit of time getting back up to speed and building a lower frame for the ducting. Add 3 trips to the hardware store for this and that……hard to understand why this project drug on!

Here’s a few shots of the the mock up - still need to blow it apart and spray paint the bare metal brackets. I won’t put it all back together until the engine is back in the car.

View attachment 71886
Now that has to be one of the cleanest home built solutions I’ve seen.
 
194
312
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
CA
Short block is scheduled for delivery tomorrow. I ordered it December 2nd. A bit longer than the 3-5 week estimate, but not too bad considering the holidays and they were closed between Christmas and New Years.

What a time suck the oil cooler and ducting turned out to be - pretty much spent the entire weekend to get it mocked up. I started with a mount that I bought from 06mach1 which hangs the cooler from the radiator support, fittings on the bottom. The 948 is large enough I wanted the bottom of the cooler secured as well, and I wasn’t keen on the AN fittings hanging down in the open section of the lower grill - right where 80% of the road debris comes blasting in. By turning it sideways, it was possible to move it back closer to the radiator. The angle iron added to the radiator core mount doubled as a bracket for the ducting. It’s been 10+ years since I’ve fired up the MIG torch, so I spent a fair bit of time getting back up to speed and building a lower frame for the ducting. Add 3 trips to the hardware store for this and that……hard to understand why this project drug on!

Here’s a few shots of the the mock up - still need to blow it apart and spray paint the bare metal brackets. I won’t put it all back together until the engine is back in the car.

View attachment 71886
*slowclap* This is inspiring! I´ll totally gonna copy that.
 
72
45
CA
Short block is scheduled for delivery tomorrow. I ordered it December 2nd. A bit longer than the 3-5 week estimate, but not too bad considering the holidays and they were closed between Christmas and New Years.

What a time suck the oil cooler and ducting turned out to be - pretty much spent the entire weekend to get it mocked up. I started with a mount that I bought from 06mach1 which hangs the cooler from the radiator support, fittings on the bottom. The 948 is large enough I wanted the bottom of the cooler secured as well, and I wasn’t keen on the AN fittings hanging down in the open section of the lower grill - right where 80% of the road debris comes blasting in. By turning it sideways, it was possible to move it back closer to the radiator. The angle iron added to the radiator core mount doubled as a bracket for the ducting. It’s been 10+ years since I’ve fired up the MIG torch, so I spent a fair bit of time getting back up to speed and building a lower frame for the ducting. Add 3 trips to the hardware store for this and that……hard to understand why this project drug on!

Here’s a few shots of the the mock up - still need to blow it apart and spray paint the bare metal brackets. I won’t put it all back together until the engine is back in the car.

View attachment 71886
This is absolutely gorgeous. Great inspiration but also makes me sad because I have so much extra crap in the way (oil cooler lines, P.S. lines, ac condenser lines, etc.). I spent a good 10-15hrs on doing my ducting and it didn't come out good.

Also, what BTU is your cooler? I've had issue with 160°F mishimoto tstat not opening while driving on the street....the oil never gets hot enough. So be sure you've got the 180°F or 200°F t-stat because I know you still drive this guy on the street. You probably know this already though ;)
 
720
1,043
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
SoCal
This is absolutely gorgeous. Great inspiration but also makes me sad because I have so much extra crap in the way (oil cooler lines, P.S. lines, ac condenser lines, etc.). I spent a good 10-15hrs on doing my ducting and it didn't come out good.

Also, what BTU is your cooler? I've had issue with 160°F mishimoto tstat not opening while driving on the street....the oil never gets hot enough. So be sure you've got the 180°F or 200°F t-stat because I know you still drive this guy on the street. You probably know this already though ;)
Thank you! I still have to add the -12 oil lines on the drivers side of the cooler so it will clutter up a bit. It’s all built out of gloss black Alumalite, so the white protective layer will come off after final assembly.

Setrab lists the btu/hr rating at 69,000-96,000. Had to read the footnotes for explanation on the big range:


“EOC hp and btu/hr range based on specific performance parameters that if varied may result in different performance results. Low EOC hp and btu/hr range based on typical wet sump high-performance application and typical variable parameters. High EOC hp and btu/hr range based on typical dry sump high-performance application and typical variable parameters. Wet Sump Parameters include: oil flow rate, 5gpm; 20/50 engine oil or similar; 130ºF ITD; 60mph airflow. Dry Sump Parameters include: oil flow rate, 8gpm; 20/50 engine oil or similar; 140ºF ITD; 80mph airflow.”

The new engine is leading to other mods including long tubes, so my street miles will be greatly reduced once the plates expire in May. I’m going the no thermostat setup - using the Ford Performance adapter plate, remote mount filter and -12 lines throughout.
 
72
45
CA
Thank you! I still have to add the -12 oil lines on the drivers side of the cooler so it will clutter up a bit. It’s all built out of gloss black Alumalite, so the white protective layer will come off after final assembly.

Setrab lists the btu/hr rating at 69,000-96,000. Had to read the footnotes for explanation on the big range:


“EOC hp and btu/hr range based on specific performance parameters that if varied may result in different performance results. Low EOC hp and btu/hr range based on typical wet sump high-performance application and typical variable parameters. High EOC hp and btu/hr range based on typical dry sump high-performance application and typical variable parameters. Wet Sump Parameters include: oil flow rate, 5gpm; 20/50 engine oil or similar; 130ºF ITD; 60mph airflow. Dry Sump Parameters include: oil flow rate, 8gpm; 20/50 engine oil or similar; 140ºF ITD; 80mph airflow.”

The new engine is leading to other mods including long tubes, so my street miles will be greatly reduced once the plates expire in May. I’m going the no thermostat setup - using the Ford Performance adapter plate, remote mount filter and -12 lines throughout.
Oh no, another s197 street car bites the dust! Haha.

I know coyotes put more energy in the oil than a 3v, but I'd definitely keep an eye on oil temps, I've got I think a 50kbtu cooler and I sometimes struggle to get the oil up to temp in the colder morning sessions here in socal (30-50°F ambient). I sized the heat exchanger to get 280°F 50wt oil down to 230°F on a 100°F day, completely not realizing the consequences of how it would behave while driving on the street on a cold day.....:ohdamn:

Looking forward to seeing this thing in action
 
720
1,043
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
SoCal
Why won’t it just install itself?? I just want to drive it already!!

Finished reassembling the cylinder heads today with new stem seals, springs and retainers. All 32 valves were lapped after initially planning to just do the 4 new valves. Took a little extra time but the seats look perfect.

Also checked the bellhousing alignment. The original block required .007” offset dowels for alignment of the QuickTime housing and Magnum XL. The new block is well within spec with the factory dowels - bonus! Time to get serious tomorrow!!

CD41B578-E034-41D3-BAEC-E201D411B8E6.jpeg
 
720
1,043
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
SoCal
The final box has arrived - time to get this thing buttoned up!

This is the Ford Performance Gen 1 Cam drive kit. It’s been on back order forever, and I had already planned to go back together with the used phasers and chains instead of waiting. I had already bought individual tensioners, and decided to upgrade to the billet aluminum guides since the kit wouldn’t be here. With a nice surprise, Capaldi emailed tracking info last week - the kit was back in stock sooner than expected. Now everything inside the front cover will be new and upgraded

1E4FB151-8838-4431-9DB9-9F63013FBCF2.jpeg

I also opted for this bracket from MMR that inverts the secondary tensioner on the LH cylinder head. Ford’s design applies tension on the drive side of the LH chain. This bracket inverts the tensioner assembly to apply tension on the slack side. I found out the hard way that Ford updated the length of the actual hydraulic tensioner. The new ones are shorter, which only presents a problem when installing this bracket. MMR is aware of the change, and is revising the bracket to work with the shorter style. Meanwhile, I ordered MMR’s upgraded billet tensioners, as they’re made to the original length and work with the bracket.
6C35271A-15C7-4D11-8792-48F5F0A16ACE.jpeg
9078EBE4-6160-487A-90F4-EB39F2EE7D88.jpeg

Here’s where it currently sits - old cam covers just to keep dust out ; aluminum GT500 covers ready to go on. Couple nights this week buttoning it up and should be ready to install this weekend!

818C926F-B15F-4F89-B1BE-0B96F218EC3C.jpeg
 
Last edited:
720
1,043
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
SoCal
When union the gen 3 long block and gen 1 heads and what not, is it a direct swap???
Yes. Cylinder head gaskets have to match the generation head you’re using. Other than that, the cylinder head bolts are the larger 12mm style that were used in early Gen 1 (up to 2012) and again on Gen 3’s. I used the ARP head stud kit listed for the 2011-12 Gen 1.
 
720
1,043
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
SoCal
Slowly getting there. The engine is back in the car, which feels like a major milestone. Honestly I was dreading this step, not knowing how it would be dropping it in with the long tubes bolted up. The GT500 oil pan just BARELY drops in past the k-member, but once in place its good to go.

Plans for the remote filter mount had to be altered in the 11th hour, which will require the oil cooler to be flipped 180 so the the fittings exit to the passenger side. Thankfully I hadn’t cut holes in the new ducting yet, so not a huge deal. The drivers side of the engine bay gets really crowded with the alternator, air box, ABS module and lines. The plan was to keep the filter inside the frame rails with the lowest point of the filter above the radiator support bracket, and easily accessible for oil changes. The passenger side in the same place is wide open and will work really well - pics below. Couple 8mm rivnuts in the framerail and SendCutSend bracket FTW.

63870F26-8226-4CB9-A148-0D29E9E6825F.jpeg
8ADD325A-51BE-4633-A7EA-01B31655439A.jpeg
8293C541-9456-4425-971B-09F21F6FC6EA.jpeg
155201EE-0043-4577-87EE-3FB8D37E6C18.jpeg

28588CF8-5119-453D-81DE-EBD93430B7FA.jpeg
 
Slowly getting there. The engine is back in the car, which feels like a major milestone. Honestly I was dreading this step, not knowing how it would be dropping it in with the long tubes bolted up. The GT500 oil pan just BARELY drops in past the k-member, but once in place its good to go.

Plans for the remote filter mount had to be altered in the 11th hour, which will require the oil cooler to be flipped 180 so the the fittings exit to the passenger side. Thankfully I hadn’t cut holes in the new ducting yet, so not a huge deal. The drivers side of the engine bay gets really crowded with the alternator, air box, ABS module and lines. The plan was to keep the filter inside the frame rails with the lowest point of the filter above the radiator support bracket, and easily accessible for oil changes. The passenger side in the same place is wide open and will work really well - pics below. Couple 8mm rivnuts in the framerail and SendCutSend bracket FTW.

View attachment 72372
View attachment 72373
View attachment 72374
View attachment 72375

View attachment 72376
Just a general comment about problem I had with oil filter location near the sway bar. My stock front sway bar bracket failed and the sway bar moved to puncture the oil filter for instant smoke and oil loss. Fortunately, it was a small puncture but made a lot smoke on the track. I subsequently installed heavier duty sway bar brackets.
 
5,017
5,333
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
Slowly getting there. The engine is back in the car, which feels like a major milestone. Honestly I was dreading this step, not knowing how it would be dropping it in with the long tubes bolted up. The GT500 oil pan just BARELY drops in past the k-member, but once in place its good to go.

Plans for the remote filter mount had to be altered in the 11th hour, which will require the oil cooler to be flipped 180 so the the fittings exit to the passenger side. Thankfully I hadn’t cut holes in the new ducting yet, so not a huge deal. The drivers side of the engine bay gets really crowded with the alternator, air box, ABS module and lines. The plan was to keep the filter inside the frame rails with the lowest point of the filter above the radiator support bracket, and easily accessible for oil changes. The passenger side in the same place is wide open and will work really well - pics below. Couple 8mm rivnuts in the framerail and SendCutSend bracket FTW.

View attachment 72372
View attachment 72373
View attachment 72374
View attachment 72375

View attachment 72376
Love the fact that you took the time to radius the corners of the bracket. Shows a real concern for workmanship.
 
720
1,043
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
SoCal
Love the fact that you took the time to radius the corners of the bracket. Shows a real concern for workmanship.
I can’t take too much credit for the final product. SendCutSend makes it crazy easy to get custom brackets made. Learning CAD is on my bucket list - with detailed drawings the sky is the limit for one off designs. I just used their generic parts builder, specified the material and laid out the holes, radius and overall size.
 

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