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571 rwhp - NEED HELP WITH TIRES

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I'll be in the market for some tires this summer. Had the Boss supercharged for a few months now and it's great (putting down 571 rwhp) but I'd like some input on what summer/sticky tires I should be running to get the best possible performance/traction. I can't keep the tires from spinning and I realize this is due to the temperature outside currently. It's been anywhere from 7 degrees to 60 degrees in just a week span. Granted, I don't take the boss out when it's wet or under 30 degrees but my problem (if you should even call it a problem) is I can't seem to put down any traction. This morning, (45 degrees) I was in a more spirited driving mood so I came out of first and second pretty quick (due to tire spin of course) and engaged third with a good amount of throttle (probably half way down). I spun in third like I would have in 1st or 2nd if I kept it down. It was pretty nuts.

I currently have great tread on my toyo proxes 4 but that might be half of the problem right there. They probably aren't the right tires for max grip. The other obvious culprits here: weather temp and colder tires. Since I've never had this much hp before I have some general questions that some of you may be able to answer - especially if you've supercharged/turboed your stangs.

First off, am I just wasting my time by even asking the question?? I want to know if ths topic is pointless to begin with. I don't want to buy wider tires (currently running 295s) just to drop the coin on 305s and still break loose ( within reason ). Now I'm not looking to hook from a dig here or anything... but hoping to be able to hook if I want to go WOT at a 50mph roll.

1) Based on your experience, would there have been a significant difference if the temp outside was 85-90 degrees using same tires?? How much difference really?
2) Aside from racing slicks / drag radials, is anyone with this kind of power able to go through gears more agressively without too much tire spin on street tires? (Again, not from a dig - from a roll on start). If so, what kind of tires are you using or recommend?

Background info on my wheels/tiers: I'm running forgestar F14s on 20" rims back and front. 9.5 front 10.5 in back. Tires are toyo proxes 4.

I can't even imagine what 700 + rwhp would be like on this car. Based on what some other guys are putting down 571 rwhp is tame (just kidding).

If you want to check out my supercharger thread it's here >>>>>>>>>>https://trackmustangsonline.com/index.php?topic=6238.0
 
Might help if you soften the rear shock's a bit and had higher sidewalls so it can flex a little more. I'm assuming with 20" rims your tire are 285 /30 /20 ?
 
racered302 said:
Might help if you soften the rear shock's a bit and had higher sidewalls so it can flex a little more. I'm assuming with 20" rims your tire are 285 /30 /20 ?

that's a good point. I'm 295/30/20 I think. Will lowering the tire pressure to 30 psi help at all?? Now that you've mentioned softening the shocks, am I still able to do this manually with the 1-5 settings even though I have installed an eibach sportline kit? Thanks man.
 
Grant 302 said:
Before you go chasing your tail with new tire options...what is your suspension setup in the rear?

All I can tell you is that I had the eibach sportline kit installed on the car. Does that help?
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
yankeehick said:
All I can tell you is that I had the eibach sportline kit installed on the car. Does that help?

Just the springs? Anyway, if you're lowered and have not put on LCA brackets, then there's a lot of room for traction improvement from correcting your suspension geometry and increasing anti-squat.
 
Grant 302 said:
Just the springs? Anyway, if you're lowered and have not put on LCA brackets, then there's a lot of room for traction improvement from correcting your suspension geometry and increasing anti-squat.

Just the springs and I have a panhard bar as well. No LCA brackets just yet but that's a good idea...doesn't it also lessen wheel hop? You seem pretty knowledgable so I'll ask you another question: Would it be wise to run the same Toyo Proxes 4 on the front and say get a pair of Toyo R888 for the rear? Or is that a no-no.
 
yankeehick said:
Just the springs and I have a panhard bar as well. No LCA brackets just yet but that's a good idea...doesn't it also lessen wheel hop? You seem pretty knowledgable so I'll ask you another question: Would it be wise to run the same Toyo Proxes 4 on the front and say get a pair of Toyo R888 for the rear? Or is that a no-no.

Definitely not an expert here but mixing tires does not sound a good idea in
general. Why would you like to have less grippy tires on the front wheels that
you need for steering and braking?
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
yankeehick said:
Just the springs and I have a panhard bar as well. No LCA brackets just yet but that's a good idea...doesn't it also lessen wheel hop? You seem pretty knowledgable so I'll ask you another question: Would it be wise to run the same Toyo Proxes 4 on the front and say get a pair of Toyo R888 for the rear? Or is that a no-no.

Mixing tires isn't good practice if you want the car to do more than go straight or drag race.

Brackets can increase traction which can lessen wheel hop. Get a set that will fit your stock arms or plan to change the arms too.

I wouldn't expect the brackets to solve all your traction issues, but they should help. I don't have any experience with the Proxes, but R888 or other tires should help.

What's your rwtq?
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
I would start with LCA and LCA relocation brackets (since you are lowered). The rear arms are probably pointing down going back to front which isnt what you want. you want it flat or slightly pointing up. I would then look to get an adjustable UCA and bracket like one from steeda or BMR.

For tires I cant speak for how good the toyo's are. I would go with either the michelin PSS's or the new Mickey Thompson Comp street tires. My old go to when I had my cobra making 620 at the wheels was falken fk 452's they did a decent job but I would haze the tires through fourth gear in it.

Another thing that wasnt mentioned is if you want straight line grip a hard core drag race rear sway bar will help. not very street friendly though so I hear.
 
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1
I should add that your Proxies 4 will be better in cold weather than any proper tire will.
You'll find that R888 will be worse than your proxies 4 when the temps start to go below 10 degree C.

But most certainly, your problem right now are your:
1) Tires
2) Suspension (lack of rebound control with stock shocks coupled with sportlines)
3) Geometry - you reduced anti squat when you lowered the car. If you're after straightline grip, you need to improve these #'s either with LCA relocation brackets or UCA or both

And lastly, always consider driving style. How the driver is applying the throttle has very much to do with when and how often a car is going to break loose. With so much power on tap, you always want to be rolling into the throttle smoothly (and not abruptly!). You'll also want to ensure your steering wheel is straight when you do.

Keep in mind also that with our cars having so much anti squat, you have more rear end grip when you're on the gas vs when you're off the gas. So when your tires start breaking loose, sometimes a natural reaction is to back off entirely. This throws off the cars balance. Staying in the throttle but modulating it is key to feeling for and finding that traction.
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
FWIW the Michelin pilot sport a/s 3's are pretty awesome as far as all seasons go. If you are looking for something to grip on cold roads


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Domestic Product

Big fat tires and everything !
boro92 said:
But most certainly, your problem right now are your:
1) Tires
2) Suspension (lack of rebound control with stock shocks coupled with sportlines)
3) Geometry - you reduced anti squat when you lowered the car. If you're after straightline grip, you need to improve these #'s either with LCA relocation brackets or UCA or both

Agree with above, Tires , with that much power I would be looking at as big as I could fit and something sticky maybe give the Nitto NTO5 a look or the NT555 . New dampers all the way around, adjustable LCAs with relocation brackets. Then I would be looking at upgrading the brakes! :)
 
I am not sure the NT555 will provide enough grip, but the NT-555R might. They are plenty grippy for AutoX. A few friends of mine run them (stoked '92 Vette, an old GTA, and an F-body). They seem to work great, but they are also running them in 315 widths I think. I think a members here are very happy with the 555Rs on the track.
 
Appreicate all the advise guys. You've really geared me towards LCAs, dampers and the R888 or Nt05s seem good. Justin, not sure about Michellen's...they are pricey! I didn't even think about suspension components so it really helped to open my eyes on the big picture to get the maximum performance aside from just tires alone.
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
yankeehick said:
Appreicate all the advise guys. You've really geared me towards LCAs, dampers and the R888 or Nt05s seem good. Justin, not sure about Michellen's...they are pricey! I didn't even think about suspension components so it really helped to open my eyes on the big picture to get the maximum performance aside from just tires alone.
The Mickey Thompsons are a cheaper option and have heard nothing but good about them. Look at the reviews of the NT05 tires lots of complaints. R888 I never researched.
 
Justin said:
The Mickey Thompsons are a cheaper option and have heard nothing but good about them. Look at the reviews of the NT05 tires lots of complaints. R888 I never researched.

Only thing about the mickey thompson is the width. I have 20" wheels and I only see a max width of 275. Do they make a 295 or 305?
 
While you might like the look of the 20" wheels, it will considerably limit the available tires. And they will be pricey to the point where you could buy a superior tire for an 18" wheel and break even or even save money after buying SVE drifts or the AM wheels. The cost of the MT street comps is pretty reasonable for the stock 19" wheels, too.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
boro92 said:
2) Suspension (lack of rebound control with stock shocks coupled with sportlines)

Stock shocks control compression and rebound, if I understand correctly...

yankeehick said:
Appreicate all the advise guys. You've really geared me towards LCAs, dampers and the R888 or Nt05s seem good. Justin, not sure about Michellen's...they are pricey! I didn't even think about suspension components so it really helped to open my eyes on the big picture to get the maximum performance aside from just tires alone.

Before you go an spend a bunch of money on all the suggested mods, I suggest you stick to these first two:

Tires and LCA brackets that fit the stock arms. And I suggest you do them one at a time. Change too much at once and you won't know what is working for you. Brackets that fit the stock arms can still use aftermarket LCAs if and when you're ready to change them.

Too many times, I see guys online changing everything and having no clue what is actually improving their traction/performance. Before you select a set of LCAs to go with, you need decide what type of ends you want to go with- poly, spherical, del-sphere, poly ball, rubber, etc. and many are mixed with different front/rear ends. Take your time with this selection.
 

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