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A10 track issues, am I overheating?

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First of all, I apologize for yet another 10 speed auto thread, I know there are a lot. I'm just trying to be as certain as I can that this is indeed the issue before I start throwing money and parts at the car. I've only tracked the car at my closest track, Roebling Road Raceway and been there about 5-6 times with the car. Ambient temp has been anywhere from 50-75 degrees. The first two times out I ran some high 1:29s and low 1:30s, but just getting use to the car. Went home put some Nitto's on and some Steeda suspension components, and went back for another track day and now I'm running low 25s. Problem is I can't get but about 5-7 laps of hard driving before the trans temp gauge is creeping close to 230, when that happens and at higher speeds shifting down the front straight it "miss shifts" (don't know the correct term) or falls on it's face. It's like it doesn't know how to make up it's mind. RPM's will get close to redline, car will try to shift but feels like it bogs when it shifts and then has to pick up and go again. Other issue is that when it does this, it will also spit trans fluid out and must be hitting the exhaust, because a puff of smoke will come out the back of the car. I immediately do a cool down lap and bring it in and sit for a while. But once it gets that hot, I can't hardly run it again, because it's so heat soaked, it takes forever to cool down. If I go back out anytime soon it will run like a champ those first few laps until the temp gets back around 230 and then it starts again. I feel like I'm just driving it too hard (but that's the point right) and it can't get rid of the heat, but does that sound typical to you guys? I should've mentioned is a 2019 GT Premium, it's not a PP1, PP2 or anything like that. I didn't have these issues the first two times out, but the harder/faster I go the more it seems to happen. Does it sound like the typical A10 issue that most have, or a fluid level issue, or something else entirely? I've already got a parts list of cooling upgrades I want to do based off other threads here, but didn't want to start down that road if you all didn't think that sounded right. Sorry for the long post but thanks very much for any help.
 

1 old racer

Too blessed to be stressed and old track whore,
128
267
Exp. Level
20+ Years
fontana ca.
I have seen the same type of temps on my PP1 out on the track at air temps around the high 80's -low 90's but so far have not had any shift issues. I added a couple of trans coolers in line with the oem cooler that I had from another project . I bought a set of trans lines from my local ford dealer so I could use the oem ends and I built a couple of brackets and mounted them behind and below the crash bar. I am going to go with a larger size cooler later I just wanted to see if I was going in the right direction. Here is the link that inspired me on the project. https://trackmustangsonline.com/threads/10r80-automatic-trans-cooling-questions.14765/#post-219616
 
Ray man. You shifting automatically or only by paddle?
Just letting the car shift automatically in track mode. It seems to know well enough when to shift. Do you think it's doing too much shifting and I should control it more to minimize the extra shifts?
 
I have seen the same type of temps on my PP1 out on the track at air temps around the high 80's -low 90's but so far have not had any shift issues. I added a couple of trans coolers in line with the oem cooler that I had from another project . I bought a set of trans lines from my local ford dealer so I could use the oem ends and I built a couple of brackets and mounted them behind and below the crash bar. I am going to go with a larger size cooler later I just wanted to see if I was going in the right direction. Here is the link that inspired me on the project. https://trackmustangsonline.com/threads/10r80-automatic-trans-cooling-questions.14765/#post-219616
Did you have the extra coolers before you tracked it, or did you track it before? Thanks for the link I'll take a look.
 

1 old racer

Too blessed to be stressed and old track whore,
128
267
Exp. Level
20+ Years
fontana ca.
No. I just installed the extra cooler and have not taken it to the track. Thw pp1 does have a larger cooling then the non pp1 so that little extra may have been the difference in the way the trans behaved. Also I use the paddles mostly on the track.
 
531
364
sfo
Just letting the car shift automatically in track mode. It seems to know well enough when to shift. Do you think it's doing too much shifting and I should control it more to minimize the extra shifts?

I race A10 only. No street. I only shift via paddle and A10 does what I ask. I also have giant coolers and no stock tranny cooler
 
Thanks for the help so far. I think I'm going to dive in with the larger Mishimoto main radiator upgrade, their replacement oil cooler and also add the trans cooler. Put the 160 thermostat in and call it a day. If it overheats after that, I give up, lol. And eventually add the diff cooler at some point too. That should cover pretty much everything I can think of.
 
531
364
sfo
See post 2 IMO mish is not the way to go. I use the same big derale coolers at a fraction the price on stock pp1 radiator and racing hard no problem. Also if you are not overheating diff you are not going fast enough. You need to cool that too. I can get the overheat warning on diff in about 2-3 laps. the derale solution is way more elegant than mish and work together too. You just have to do you own plumbing fab but it is worth it. mish was not designed for both OC and trans partly bec manual guys were the 1st that tracked and asked for cooling. So mish is more piecemeal and not packaged well for both IMO. There is alos no data on keeping A10 cool so guys like Me and flyhalf and lil zues figured it out. Flyhalf was 1st he went mish had much more growing pain. Zues came up with real integrated solution for A10 + OC and I'm just one more datapoint racing only to prove his concept works. That's my story and I'm sticking to it
 
First of all, I apologize for yet another 10 speed auto thread, I know there are a lot. I'm just trying to be as certain as I can that this is indeed the issue before I start throwing money and parts at the car. I've only tracked the car at my closest track, Roebling Road Raceway and been there about 5-6 times with the car. Ambient temp has been anywhere from 50-75 degrees. The first two times out I ran some high 1:29s and low 1:30s, but just getting use to the car. Went home put some Nitto's on and some Steeda suspension components, and went back for another track day and now I'm running low 25s. Problem is I can't get but about 5-7 laps of hard driving before the trans temp gauge is creeping close to 230, when that happens and at higher speeds shifting down the front straight it "miss shifts" (don't know the correct term) or falls on it's face. It's like it doesn't know how to make up it's mind. RPM's will get close to redline, car will try to shift but feels like it bogs when it shifts and then has to pick up and go again. Other issue is that when it does this, it will also spit trans fluid out and must be hitting the exhaust, because a puff of smoke will come out the back of the car. I immediately do a cool down lap and bring it in and sit for a while. But once it gets that hot, I can't hardly run it again, because it's so heat soaked, it takes forever to cool down. If I go back out anytime soon it will run like a champ those first few laps until the temp gets back around 230 and then it starts again. I feel like I'm just driving it too hard (but that's the point right) and it can't get rid of the heat, but does that sound typical to you guys? I should've mentioned is a 2019 GT Premium, it's not a PP1, PP2 or anything like that. I didn't have these issues the first two times out, but the harder/faster I go the more it seems to happen. Does it sound like the typical A10 issue that most have, or a fluid level issue, or something else entirely? I've already got a parts list of cooling upgrades I want to do based off other threads here, but didn't want to start down that road if you all didn't think that sounded right. Sorry for the long post but thanks very much for any help.

I had the exact same symptoms when the tranny started overheating. I'm thinking lowering the engine temp with an oil cooler can also help lower the heat transfer from the engine. The problem is that the Mishimoto oil cooler sits right in front of the A10 cooler which can eliminate the gains. (not proved or tested, just in my mind).

Here is what I have done. I'll test everything in the spring.
- Got rid of the ac condenser (Because race car, although this was done before and I still had the issue)
- Oil cooler (was also done, but this time i lowered the brackets, see next post for pictures)
- Added a heat exchanger (summit racing or derale, not sure)
- Added the PPE Oil pan. (Side note, it sits kinda low, we'll see if it becomes a ground clearance issue on a race car, should not be a problem on a street car).
- Added more intense rad shrouding.

i'll let you know if it works.
 
Update!

So everything worked well for the first 20 minute session. The tune needs fine tuning but overall good. Trans temps stayed below 90c, it was pretty cold outside.

Then for the 2nd session after a 20min break, the the tranny started acting up after only like 1-2 laps. Just impossible to drive and started spiting oil right after. Temps were at like 95c when that all started, and it seems that when troubles start, it has a vicious circle effet making the temp go even higher and the troubles worse, but that could just be me. Highest temp I saw was 102c(215f). optimal operating temps for the 10r80 should be 96-103, if I'm not mistaken.

Important note, we filled the oil and the trans was only at approx 40c (104f). We filled it to the highest mark on the gage, like 100% full. Could that cause these issues?

updated car pic!

Mustang.jpg
 
Hi Gang,
Well I sold my 2018 A10 PP1 car, and I pulled off the trans cooler I made for it, If anyone is interested please PM me.
It has stock Ford hose connectors, so you mount it, unplug one of the coolant supply lines plug this in and away you go.
Well I figure I have over $400 into the cooler, AN lines, Fittings.. ect...
Asking $225 which includes shipping.
I even have the tool to disconnect the factory lines, which I will include.
You do not need to remove the front, connects to the support bracket mounts on the back of the bumper.
If interested or if you have questions please let me know.

20200611_141124.jpg

20200611_141150.jpg

Trans Connections.jpg

Trans Installed.jpg
 

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