AC: Fix it or junk it?

[Black Boss]

25??? I only got 21 lbs

What's the fluid worth ?

 

[cloud9]

What's the fluid worth ?

Good question. Mine went into the dealer recovery equipment so I don't have any idea.

 

[Grant 302]

What's the fluid worth ?

21 oz.
from here:
http://www.m-m-s.com/ACKits_Public/Files/R134aCapacities.pdf

Might also be a little more for the oil/lube.

 

[Black Boss]

Went to Rehagen and got the AC fluid recovered today -- only 0.25 lbs, capacity is 1.3 lbs -- that explains why the AC wasn't working

Dean and team were very busy prepping the #50 car for RA this weekend -- 8)

 

[Black Boss]

Surgery was successful. It's out. It took us about 2-1/2 hours total. I'll try to relate what I can, but I was more an extra set of hands. Before we started I pulled the radiator cover, air box and intake tube. We ended up putting the front on jack stands and removing the plastic shroud behind the splitter. Had to take out the 6 splitter bolts at the back but not the entire splitter.



We had to drop the oil cooler to get enough slack in the oil hoses to squeeze the condenser out the bottom.



Compressor had several bolts, one a/c line and an electrical connector to remove.



We ended up disconnecting the wiring harness from the PCM and the ground wires off the battery relo kit to gain enough room to fish out this long line.



Here are all the parts. I haven't gotten around to weighing them yet, but I would guess 20-25 lbs. total.



We pulled the rubber gaskets off the condenser and zip tied them to the radiator overlapped by the two larger gaskets that block off airflow so it all goes to the radiator. The push pins weren't long enough to go through the radiator like they did the thinner condenser.







I forgot to take a picture after they were installed and don't feel like going back out and pulling the radiator cover right now

Thanks to Gary for the tips.

Took me more like 3 1/2 hours. Would be less if I did it again. In addition to Gary's tips, I'd add the following:

• I had to loosen the radiator support mounts at the top to flex the radiator rearwards to drop the condenser -- maybe because I have the thicker 302S radiator
• The compressor is surrounded by wiring and a wiring bracket. You need to remove the wiring from the bracket, by carefully cutting the tape and extract the steel bracket that is secured by nuts on top of the compressor mounting studs.
• Not sure how Gary got the belt off in one piece -- it's behind the accessory drive belt -- I cut mine
• Although all of the compressor mounting studs are accessible without removing other components, the rearmost one is a pain -- not enough space to get a socket on it, and a ratcheting wrench from the rear takes patience...... :
• I had to remove the cross member brace to extract the compressor -- there wasn't enough space between the sway bar/steering rack and the brace to drop it out

Hope this helps. Will update with any alternatives on plugging the firewall ports when I get to it tomorrow....

 

[cloud9]

Thanks for filling in the blanks Nick. We were thinking about cutting it, but decided to remove the accessory belt to get the AC belt off in one piece. Not likely it will ever go back in, but decided to save it nonetheless.

 

[Black Boss]

Hope this helps. Will update with any alternatives on plugging the firewall ports when I get to it tomorrow....

OK figured out how to seal the ports. Bought these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PLASTIC-HOLE-PLUG-CAP-SET-/131106980089?hash=item1e8695c0f9&vxp=mtr

Two different sizes fitted perfectly:



I then made up a small aluminum plate and secured to the stud to to snug in the hole plugs and prevent them from vibrating loose:



Used a lot of the remaining plugs to seal the pipes/condenser and compressor for storage.......

 

[cloud9]

Nice job Nick. I saw that package and was going to order them if I didn't score the OEM plugs.

 

[cloud9]

I was a little worried about pounding my radiator with tire turds and rocks at 160 MPH next weekend at RA so I installed that sheet of Nomex Pete talked me into buying. I had to pull the radiator shroud, hood latch and drop the oil cooler to squeeze it in there. I used the full sheet and wedged it between the rubber gaskets that direct airflow over the radiator. I went out and tested it a bit on some back highways and didn't notice any adverse cooling effects, but of course couldn't simulate track conditions. I'm hoping Pete's right that the air goes right through!

 

[Black Boss]

Good move on the Nomex. I noticed no reduction in cooling with it in place, although with the 948 cooler in most of the radiator is protected and the Setrab fins are more robust than the radiator, which in turn is better than the condenser.......

 

[cloud9]

Good move on the Nomex. I noticed no reduction in cooling with it in place, although with the 948 cooler in most of the radiator is protected and the Setrab fins are more robust than the radiator, which in turn is better than the condenser.......

Yea I noticed the oil cooler fins are pretty stout. Did you trim your Nomex or use the whole sheet? It doesn't look like it can go anywhere as it's wedged in there pretty good.

 

[Black Boss]

I didn't put the Nomex back in yet -- ran out of time and today and tomorrow are at a slower track, so I'm putting the grille's back in as protection and hoping that temps will be OK now the condenser is gone........

 

[steveespo]

Where do we get the nomex again?

 

[cloud9]

Where do we get the nomex again?

Here you go: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Honeycomb-Radiator-Protector-19-x-26-Inch,3545.html

 

[steveespo]

Ordered 2 and the zip tie mounting kit.

 

[cloud9]

Ordered 2 and the zip tie mounting kit.

I didn't see the zip tie kit. I don't think mine is going anywhere anyway. It's wedged in there pretty tight.

 

[Black Boss]

The zip tie kit is very good. Not your regular zip ties, basically a straight through tie with big washers on both ends.

 

[cloud9]

The zip tie kit is very good. Not your regular zip ties, basically a straight through tie with big washers on both ends.

I can see how they would come in handy on a sprint car where the radiator sits out front completely exposed.

 

[Black Boss]

The zip tie kit is very good. Not your regular zip ties, basically a straight through tie with big washers on both ends.

Here's a picture. The round washer is the zip tie, the square bits are foam:

 

[JScheier]

Okay... so my question... three of you had your refrigerant/oil recovered and it was pretty much non-existent. Where did it go?

A seized compressor isn't going to make the refrigerant disappear... and it would make your belt non-existent

Any signs of refrigerant leak? Usually there is a dye included to assist with locating.

I'm asking because I turned my AC on at Hallett (it was hot as hell) and it didn't blow cold, cool or any other chilling word. I like my AC and plan on keeping it (just in case my tow rig breaks and I have to drive it home or a competitors car breaks and he/she needs a ride home).

Looking for places to start (I'll hook up my gauges this weekend).

FWIW, my compressor spins freely with no added resistance or noise. I'm guessing low refrigerant is keeping the compressor from turning on (low pressure switch) <or> one of the switches went out.