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Discussion in 'Drivetrain, Exhaust and Electrical' started by RRBoss302, Dec 28, 2013.
You're welcome sir, my pleasure.
Probably not anytime soon. I think the 20-25 rwhp gain that I'll likely see doesn't outweigh the loss of my warranty. I'm satisfied with the power it makes now. So well balanced to the chassis...
The air/fuel ratio with the red key and 84.5 mm TB look a little lean, actually a lot lean, if you run that on a road race course you may just need the warranty. A tuner will get that into a 12.2 - 12.4:1 mixture and keep it from burning the pistons down during sustained running at WOT.
Good call Steve.
That throttle body has Ford Racing laser etched in it for a reason. So you get a 2 year warranty on that part for manufacturing defects. Read the FRPP catalog disclaimers, if a part doesn't have the 50 state legal icon it is an off road/racing only part that can and void your new car warranty if deemed to contribute to a failure. You can bet if an engine fails that TB will be identified as a cause along with the non OEM intake.
In event of failure you could game the system by removing the offending parts and reinstalling the OEM parts, this could be construed as fraud though so be careful. I personally have no engine or drivetrain warranty since just about everything is modded.
Food for thought.
I'm right behind you, had to halt installation because I'm in Colorado.
5" Revolution CAI is the bomb.
Fits perfectly under the T Hood...
- Where do you track?
(CF Hood wrap) lol
I concur with the 'a little lean' side of things and have been wondering for months why nobody has said anything about this yet. Especially on SVTP where all dyno charts get heavily analyzed and scrutinized.
The reason I believe this car was making more power with the Red Key is because it's programmed to run a little fat on the top end and the slightly under-metered setup can take advantage of it, then apparently squeeze a bunch of extra ponies out. The tradeoff is that you are taking away the intended safety buffer and cooling which should come from running a tad rich. Even if detonation isn't an issue, I'm sure this setup would run on the hot side on track.
So... I should expect you by later today to assist with my roll bar installation... or at least to drink beer?
It would be cool to meet you, and I would help you with any car work since I am having withdrawals Were in Carbodale, where are you located?
Shit, I'm probably no more than 15-20 minutes from you. I could finish it for you
Unless you have an AED tuned car than your dyno sheet was printed from God's computer and is golden lol.
Well mine didn't last week with temps in the 80's but next weekend will be a real test with temps in the 90's. In fact last weekend my car ran surprisingly cool and I was watching it closely. Never saw CHT above low 220's using TK.
It'll be interesting to hear your results. What track was that last week? You're probably at less risk for overheating will with most or all of your tracks under 100 ft msl, and even less so with the bay area humidity.
Sonoma. It was pretty warm and there was a North wind which kept the humidity low. Sonoma, Laguna Seca and Thunderhill are all close to sea level. Last Fall at TH it was in the 90's and my car got hot so I'm expecting the same thing next Sunday.
Low humidity for the bay area is still like 40%! It's relative relative humidity.
Over here, dry is in the teens...or less
We probably should be cross checking humidity in the oil cooler threads too.
EDIT: Next week is Thunderhill? Good luck and watch your temps in the afternoon. Do you still call that 'Central Valley' up north?
How do you get the strut tower brace to fit with this manifold?
Ahh Grasshopper. I have lowered engine mounts, 1/2" lower than stock. Clears by 1/4".
You should start or resurrect a build thread with your complete build!! It's a great example of what a lot of us eventually want to with our cars.