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Advancetrac issue after TNiA?

5
2
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Georgia
Hey all,

I posted this on the Mustang Source forum and got one reply and 100 or so views but nothing else at the moment. Also, this deals with Advancetrac AND brakes, didn't know where to put it so if it needs to be moved I can take it down and move it to the brake section. I found this forum and since my issue could be track-related, I wanted to post here.

I have a 2012 GT 6-speed with 21k miles - it has a fairly extensive list of mods: Airaid CAI, Bama tune, LTH over-axle pipes, Roush axle-back, Ford Performance sway bars, Koni Yellow adjustables, H&R Super Sport springs, Stoptech slotted cryo rotors and G-loc R8s on the front, and Nitto 555 G2s. I have the Stoptech rotors and R8s for the rear as well, more on that later. I'm not setting the car up for any specific discipline, I'm just trying to make it a rowdy street car that I can take to the strip or the road course once in a while. I had a Track Night in America event scheduled for last Friday and did a mad post-vacation dash to get the new brakes on as they arrived while I was out of town. I got the fronts together just fine (the Brembo calipers are amazing) but ran into trouble on the rear. I bought a tool similar to the cube to rotate the pistons back in but the right rear would just rotate and wouldn't push back into the caliper, even while rotating and pushing. I ran out of time and was forced to put the old pads and rotor back on since I wasn't missing the event. I made it to the track with no issues and was anxious to try out the new setup as this was the first event with the Konis and H&Rs. The car performed flawlessly until the last session, where I had the "Service Advancetrac" error come up. I worked the SCCA event at RA this past weekend and have been busy this week, so I haven't had a chance to tear the car apart and look at it, but I'm assuming I have this issue here, as the symptoms are almost 100% the same:

https://themustangsource.com/forums/...solved-546958/

I pitted when the error came up, parked in the paddock and shut the car off. I let it cool off for a bit while I packed up my stuff and when I started to leave the error was gone. Got to the hotel and researched, found the above thread and decided that was my issue - problem solved, right? Well, Sunday on my ride home from the track, I noticed that the car seems like it's being "held back" somehow - almost like the brakes are dragging very slightly. I stopped off at an exit and there's no smoke, no funny brake smell, no blue-ing of the rotors, just normal heat from an hour or so drive. I'm not sure if this has anything to do with the caliper piston not retracting and causing binding, or if my wire loom is indeed burned and the Advancetrac system is going nuts since there could be exposed wires. I know this is a little speculative because I haven't confirmed any damage to the loom yet, but my problem almost exactly mimics the one described in the Mustang Source post, so I'm 99% confident I have the issue. The only other thing of note, is that since the issue on Friday, after startup, something "clunks" in the driveline when the clutch is released (I'll usually start the car, knock it out of gear and release the clutch and then mess with putting my phone in the holder, music, etc.). It's slight, but definitely there as I can feel it in the pedal and hear it if the door is open. Sorry for the long post, but wanted to get as much info as I can out there and see if anyone else has experienced this. I drove the car around today some and the issue is definitely still there. The car seems fast as ever once you get going, but under acceleration it feels almost like the parking brake is partially engaged. Any help is appreciated!

-Mark
 
Hey all,

I posted this on the Mustang Source forum and got one reply and 100 or so views but nothing else at the moment. Also, this deals with Advancetrac AND brakes, didn't know where to put it so if it needs to be moved I can take it down and move it to the brake section. I found this forum and since my issue could be track-related, I wanted to post here.

I have a 2012 GT 6-speed with 21k miles - it has a fairly extensive list of mods: Airaid CAI, Bama tune, LTH over-axle pipes, Roush axle-back, Ford Performance sway bars, Koni Yellow adjustables, H&R Super Sport springs, Stoptech slotted cryo rotors and G-loc R8s on the front, and Nitto 555 G2s. I have the Stoptech rotors and R8s for the rear as well, more on that later. I'm not setting the car up for any specific discipline, I'm just trying to make it a rowdy street car that I can take to the strip or the road course once in a while. I had a Track Night in America event scheduled for last Friday and did a mad post-vacation dash to get the new brakes on as they arrived while I was out of town. I got the fronts together just fine (the Brembo calipers are amazing) but ran into trouble on the rear. I bought a tool similar to the cube to rotate the pistons back in but the right rear would just rotate and wouldn't push back into the caliper, even while rotating and pushing. I ran out of time and was forced to put the old pads and rotor back on since I wasn't missing the event. I made it to the track with no issues and was anxious to try out the new setup as this was the first event with the Konis and H&Rs. The car performed flawlessly until the last session, where I had the "Service Advancetrac" error come up. I worked the SCCA event at RA this past weekend and have been busy this week, so I haven't had a chance to tear the car apart and look at it, but I'm assuming I have this issue here, as the symptoms are almost 100% the same:

https://themustangsource.com/forums/...solved-546958/

I pitted when the error came up, parked in the paddock and shut the car off. I let it cool off for a bit while I packed up my stuff and when I started to leave the error was gone. Got to the hotel and researched, found the above thread and decided that was my issue - problem solved, right? Well, Sunday on my ride home from the track, I noticed that the car seems like it's being "held back" somehow - almost like the brakes are dragging very slightly. I stopped off at an exit and there's no smoke, no funny brake smell, no blue-ing of the rotors, just normal heat from an hour or so drive. I'm not sure if this has anything to do with the caliper piston not retracting and causing binding, or if my wire loom is indeed burned and the Advancetrac system is going nuts since there could be exposed wires. I know this is a little speculative because I haven't confirmed any damage to the loom yet, but my problem almost exactly mimics the one described in the Mustang Source post, so I'm 99% confident I have the issue. The only other thing of note, is that since the issue on Friday, after startup, something "clunks" in the driveline when the clutch is released (I'll usually start the car, knock it out of gear and release the clutch and then mess with putting my phone in the holder, music, etc.). It's slight, but definitely there as I can feel it in the pedal and hear it if the door is open. Sorry for the long post, but wanted to get as much info as I can out there and see if anyone else has experienced this. I drove the car around today some and the issue is definitely still there. The car seems fast as ever once you get going, but under acceleration it feels almost like the parking brake is partially engaged. Any help is appreciated!

-Mark
First, it's worth finding out if you have two separate problems - the brake issue and the Advancetrac issue might not be related to each other.

If you can get your hands on a code reader, check the ABS module for codes - Advancetrac is managed by the ABS module using sensors all over the car. The Advancetrac problem could be a bunged up wheel speed sensor or a damaged wire, for instance.

As for the brake caliper, as @TMSBOSS said, just get a replacement caliper from a Ford dealer and install it. Cheap and very effective.
 
5
2
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Georgia
Thanks for the replies y'all - all good points. I was positive that I had the piston in the right orientation to engage the boss on the pad, but if turning the piston caused it to break loose and then extend and get stuck during the track event, that could be my issue.

@JAJ - I used the DTC feature in my SCT X4 tuner and didn't come up with any DTCs - does the ABS module require an Autel, Snap-On, etc. scan tool to pick up codes? I'm not sure why you'd need a scanner of that caliber for ABS module codes, but figured I'd ask.
 
Thanks for the replies y'all - all good points. I was positive that I had the piston in the right orientation to engage the boss on the pad, but if turning the piston caused it to break loose and then extend and get stuck during the track event, that could be my issue.

@JAJ - I used the DTC feature in my SCT X4 tuner and didn't come up with any DTCs - does the ABS module require an Autel, Snap-On, etc. scan tool to pick up codes? I'm not sure why you'd need a scanner of that caliber for ABS module codes, but figured I'd ask.
Sadly, I don't remember enough about the capabilities of the SCT tuners. I have an X3, but the last time I used it was 2017 and that was just a very minor engine tune change on an SUV, so I'm a bit rusty. However, if the X4 can "see" the ABS module and read its codes, that's all you need. It may not be able to see stored codes, though, so just because it doesn't see them, that doesn't guarantee that they're not there.
 
5
2
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Georgia
I will check on that tomorrow. I actually have an el cheapo OBDII reader that I know will read stored codes, so I'll try that as well. I also read in another thread on another forum where someone had the "Service Advancetrac" error because of a loose ground on the strut tower. I did put new struts on as stated in my original post, so since I messed around in the area I am going to check that as well.

The more I think about this the more I think it has something to do with that brake caliper that I couldn't get to retract. I am going to look at getting a caliper just for peace of mind.

-Mark
 
5
2
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Georgia
Hi all,

I finally got a chance to work on the car today. I took it to a friend's house and used his lift and found that the wheel speed sensor wire had indeed been against the exhaust and burned through. I took the negative battery cable loose during the repair to hopefully reset the ABS module and repaired the wires. I was able to get the caliper pistons to retract easily once I got the correct tool (FYI the universal tools are garbage, spend the money and rent or buy the screw-style tool, your future self will thank you) and I was able to get the new pads and rotors on without any issues. But...the "held back" feeling is still there. It honestly feels like I'm driving with the e-brake partially engaged and it seems to intermittent as I pick up speed - I've heard mechanics call it a "sharkbite feeling", where it feels like the car is stuttering or you're hitting the brakes slightly under acceleration. I've driven the car two more times now since the TNiA event and the feeling is definitely there. Any ideas? I don't think this in engine-related - I have no DTCs, no misfire, it sounds great when accelerating, etc. Oil level is fine so I don't think the VVT solenoids or cam phasers are failing (also no codes) - I'm at a loss here. ABS module failing due to the short against the exhaust? It doesn't feel like the clutch is slipping because I don't seem to be gaining RPM without gaining speed, but I guess it's possible? Something in the trans binding (I know the MT82s are fragile but this car is probably only 400 whp, so pretty mild)? I'm running out of ideas at this point.

-Mark
 
5
2
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Georgia
Hey all, I was finally able to fix this issue. I had to buy an ELM 327 scan tool and download the FORScan software - after hooking up to the car I was able to determine that the ABS and PSCM still had stored codes, I cleared them and the "held back" issue disappeared. After doing some extensive research I figured out that the TPS, ABS, PSCM, etc. all work in tandem with each other and I think the car was essentially slowing itself down with the throttle position rather than the brakes, hence no excessive heat from the brakes. The electronics on these things can be a real bear sometimes, but thanks to the guys over at the S197 forums I was able to figure it out. Hope this helps someone if they encounter the same issue!
 

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