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ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
Moderator
8,730
2,734
Arizona, USA
Yes did this earlier this year. Entire dash has to come out, and yes the hard lines split at the firewall. There are tools to separate those connections but try a couple varieties of wrenches to pinch the release tabs and you'll be moving in no-time.

FIRST: You'll need to evacuate the AC system of pressure (can do legally, or "backyard style"--watch out for the green dye), and also drain the car of coolant (since that is what will be coming out of the firewall connections).

Then you can trim the coolant lines that run to the firewall connections and bridge them (the hoses have different IDs) using a 3/4"-to-1" barbed adapter (I used a "sharkbite" brand one available at HD/Lowes) supplanted by hose clamps.

I have not yet removed the AC compressor itself from the engine due to accessibility, but it will be a target of opportunity in the future. You can "disconnect" it from any parasitic drag on the engine however by simply cutting the AC belt.

Whole deal should take you an afternoon if you know what you're doing, maybe a whole weekend if you've never seen the bare inside of an S197 before.

http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=499
 
Thanks ArizonaBoss!
But isn't the air-con a self contained system? Why bridge the two tubes?
There is no engine coolant fluid into it.
Plugging them should be enough if I leave the cabin side of the system alone...!?
About the compressor: Is lifting the engine needed or removing the K member does the trick (you think)?
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
Moderator
8,730
2,734
Arizona, USA
patrickshelby said:
Thanks ArizonaBoss!
But isn't the air-con a self contained system? Why bridge the two tubes?
There is no engine coolant fluid into it.
Plugging them should be enough if I leave the cabin side of the system alone...!?
About the compressor: Is lifting the engine needed or removing the K member does the trick (you think)?

No, the two tubes carry hot engine coolant to the heater core inside the car, they must be bridged.

If you lift the engine it might do the trick. Removing the K-Member will absolutely work.
 
I thought that the cabin heater core was connected to the two black rubber hoses coming from each side of the intake manifold and that the cabin evaporator core was connected to the two aluminium hard lines going through the firewall behind the engine...and coming from the accumulator-compressor-condenser.
I have never seen an evaporator being connected to the engine water...or a heater core serving as an evaporator...but?
You dismantled your car totally so you should know better.
Maybe the heater core and the evaporator core are all in one unit...but I still do not see how engine water can be in the AC closed system. It could not work.
 
As you know, the freon (or new alternative used) is partly gaseous and partly liquid in the system.
It is liquid entering the cabin at the evaporator, so its normal to have liquid pouring out when you disconnect the hard metal lines from the firewall.
To my knowledge, it should be green (as the OEM engine coolant is red-ish).
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
Moderator
8,730
2,734
Arizona, USA
patrickshelby said:
I thought that the cabin heater core was connected to the two black rubber hoses coming from each side of the intake manifold and that the cabin evaporator core was connected to the two aluminium hard lines going through the firewall behind the engine...and coming from the accumulator-compressor-condenser.
I have never seen an evaporator being connected to the engine water...or a heater core serving as an evaporator...but?
You dismantled your car totally so you should know better.
Maybe the heater core and the evaporator core are all in one unit...but I still do not see how engine water can be in the AC closed system. It could not work.

You're correct--I assumed that you wanted to remove the "whole enchilada" aka everything HVAC behind the dash. If you want to remove strictly the AC components in the engine bay, yes the hard lines separate by way of a bolt IIRC.

The dye is definitely green. And definitely pressurized. And definitely not all over the floor and wall of my garage anymore lol.
 
:)
No, I want to keep the heater cause where I live, I need it in the spring and in the fall!
Thanks for all your answers ArizonaBoss!
 
The AC compressor can be taken away without a problem from the front (radiator away).
Unbolt the wiring bracket. Unbolt the two AC tubes.
Unbolt the compressor, leave the three long bolts within the casing and pull from the front.
 
67
48
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
NJ
Reviving this from the dead. Plan to remove heater core and bridge using the power by the hour deal. With that, did ya’ll just cap off that now useless coolant hose from the degas bottle?
 

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