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my problem is having to do hand over hand while on the track, I don't want to to have to take my hands off the steering wheel, on reddit someone said that an angle kit would accomplish "turn the steering wheel less for a given tire angle" but here people say otherwise.If the problem you're trying to solve is that the minimum turning circle is to large, then increasing the maximum steering angle at the tire fixes that. It the problem is that you want to turn the steeing wheel less for a given tire angle, go with a steering quickener.
You have to shorten the steering arm to quicken the steering but it probably will screw up other stuff or get a rack with a much faster ratio. I'd be temped to add a quickener if it can be done with out compromising the collapsible part of the steering column or cause problems for the air bag. Still a street car. I autocross a lot and quicker steering would be a plus. The one thing that may cause a problem is if turning the elec. rack too fast causes any problems. We had purchased 60 some IH trucks, used for plow trucks, steering seemed to bind up in emergency maneuvering training. Discovered the power steering pumps had insufficient flow, new pumps and no more steering issues.my problem is having to do hand over hand while on the track, I don't want to to have to take my hands off the steering wheel, on reddit someone said that an angle kit would accomplish "turn the steering wheel less for a given tire angle" but here people say otherwise.
A word on thos eboxes, they made 2 of them, the manual version, which I thought might be a good idea until I tried it and you have to be King Kong to turn it, so light cars only on that one, and the power unit, which breeds it's own problems with plumbing, and etc, even if you use an electric box. The mods you refer to are mainly for drift guys, and they have insanely altered wheel angles in order to make all that work, If it were me, I would shop around and try to find a stock bolt in rack that had a quicker ratio, I'm sure something out there has that or you could try these guys..I believe what folks here are saying is that the best way to achieve quicker steering , and NOT disturb steering geometry, is to install a steering quickened box. Moving the point of attachment for the tie rod end on the spindle will likely change geometry would likely want to leave alone.
Another thought, not common but I have a few.
if you were to change the attaching point on the spindle, would this have a negative effect on the EPAS?
OP. What are you doing that needs the faster wheel turn speed?
I read somewhere that the GT350 steering ratio is aNot sure if this would help or what is changed. But the FP350S EPAS is available here:
I've also read that a steering quickener gearbox will ruin your steering feel - and likely add slack to the mechanism - because of the extra moving parts.Another option would be a steering quickener. Speedway Motors sells them, 1.5 to 1 and 2 to 1 ratios. Would require a good bit of fabrication to install, also safety considerations, don't want to compromise collapsible steering column. Might get you closer to the go-kart feel.
While a mechanical fix for that is possible, I think the optimal fix is to just learn "shuffle steering" and/or good hand-over-hand technique and apply it properly, starting from the 9 & 3 hand positions. Practice it, and get confident with it.my problem is having to do hand over hand while on the track, I don't want to to have to take my hands off the steering wheel
How much does toe help with this issue?While a mechanical fix for that is possible, I think the optimal fix is to just learn "shuffle steering" and/or good hand-over-hand technique and apply it properly, starting from the 9 & 3 hand positions. Practice it, and get confident with it.
Focusing on autocross, I do shuffle steering all the time (on the street as well), and often "preset" a hand for a turn - if it's a RH turn, I'll move my right hand to 10-o'clock at corner entry and pull the wheel over while it slips through my left hand. If my right hand gets to 6-o'clock, my left hand meets it and takes over pushing the wheel up to noon, where it meets the right hand and they swap control again. Reverse the process to straighten the wheel. The wheel is always firmly gripped in one hand, and the other hand is loosely around the wheel and ready to grip it if needed. One trick that I try to do is have my hands end up around 9 & 3 at the apex, as that gives me the largest range of motion for any corrections I might need. For high-speed track driving, hand-over-hand may let you turn the wheel faster -- it's something you can work out for yourself -- but you can still try to end up around 9 & 3 at the apex.
Do not use The Death Grip - clamping down on the wheel numbs the nerve endings in your hand and reduces your ability to sense the feedback from the tires about the grip level. Similarly, your fingertips have many more nerve endings per square inch than your palms, so try grip the wheel more towards the fingertips. You might even try holding the wheel with just the fingertips in a situation that is safe to do so (no curb hopping, potholes, etc. that could jerk the wheel out of control without a firm grip). IIRC, there was a Wheeler Dealers episode where Ant was on track and he was driving around the high-speed sweepers with just his fingertips, saying he learned it through an emergency vehicle driving course in the U.K.
Lastly, remember that wheels follow the hands; hands follow the eyes. Always look where you want to go, and that's where your hands will naturally steer the car. If you get target fixation on the armco at corner exit, you're more likely to hit it.
Probably none.How much does toe help with this issue?