Another oil pan upgrade post

[bulldogracer]

I went with the oil pan offered through Chicane 23. The pan is made by Armando (he had a long history with Aviad before starting his own company). The pan is a modified coyote pan, so there are no issues with rails not seating and leaking. It also comes with a modified pickup. Finally, it uses the stock low oil level sensor along with the OEM gaskets. Its capacity is 12qts.

http://www.chicane23.com/shop/chicane23-custom-coyote-road-race-oil-pan/

You'll have to drop the K-Member to install it...it fits with the stock k-member though.

[DO NOT buy this pan directly from Armando. You will have extreme problems making it fit the production K-member with oil level sensor too. Armando only makes sure it fits the block and it is not packaged very well so it comes damaged. Chicane adds the oil level sensor and makes sure it fits the car.

 

[captdistraction]

what is the stock clearance for pickup tube to pan? I'm going to recheck my moroso clearance, but I think I had it set too high before (no spacing from factory/moroso settings with unbent OEM tube)

 

[captdistraction]

Disregard, its .250"

I checked the moroso pan with Clay. MMR and some other builders offer a .250" taller spacer for the moroso, mmr and canton pans, but at least on the moroso steel unit, it wasn't needed in my case. Using a .125" spacer, I only had .125" of clearance, so out it came and was spot on.

 

[Theviking]

Reviving an old thread. In the process of installing a Moroso aluminum pan and the oil lever sensor wiring doesn't quite reach even after pulling out any excess slack in the harness. I'm ready to just cut and solder in some extra wire, but just curious what others have done. Thanks.

 

[Berol]

Reviving an old thread. In the process of installing a Moroso aluminum pan and the oil lever sensor wiring doesn't quite reach even after pulling out any excess slack in the harness. I'm ready to just cut and solder in some extra wire, but just curious what others have done. Thanks.

When I replaced my wiring harness, I had a similiar issue (with the stock pan). There are several clips on the wiring harness that help secure the harness to the engine block. For whatever reason the harness wiring BARELY had enough slack to reach the sensor. I had to completely forgo using the black plastic clips on the engine block. I got a little creative with routing to make sure it wouldn't get cut by the suspension or melted by the exhaust.

If nobody else has any input, you can free up the black clips off the engine block and you should have a little more to work with.

In the end, I just left it like that. Probably not the most professional install. But I don't see anything going wrong with it. Worse case scenario, the wiring gets frayed or cut and I'll get the oil light warning. Easy fix by soldering in some extra small gauge wire, at which point I'll go back to using the black plastic clips.

 

[Theviking]

Thanks for the response. Looks like I'm going to just extend the harness as it's too tight for my comfort even with the pins pulled out.

 

[ford20]

Thanks for all the good advise guy's. Now as for the KM dropping, any advice or trick on how you proceded to hold the engine in place while replacing the pan

For Future reference for people Maximum Motorsports has this Engine support beam that they sell with their K-Members.

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/Engine-Support-Beam-2005-2014-Mustang-P1505.aspx

 

[Theviking]

I used the MM brace, works as advertised. Also installed the MM k-member which includes brackets to hold the motor in place without the k-member or any other brace.