Any "essential" upgrades needed for a Boss 302?

[Sydewaysix]

TC and Advancetrac are things you need to be familar with. They offer piece of mind at times but can also eat up a set of rear brakes on track.

Advancetrac will apply a rear brake to assist with a turn. Drag on the inside often improves control in a turn at the cost of speed and brake wear.

Read through you owners manual and Boss supplement....a few times. This will help immensely

Enjoy the new ride ;D

I read portions of the manual today. I have electronic copies of both the manual and Boss supplement so I have it handy on my phone Didn't get a chance to take her out today, but will try to get a feel for the different TC settings this weekend. Thanks!

My recommendations are more daily driver related.

If you live in the burbs I'd recommend installing the QTP exhaust cutouts. I drive mine daily and leave the house at 5:30am during the week. I leave the side exhaust closed in the morning and open them up on the way home and definitely on the weekend.

Weathertech mats would protect your floor, I got them for the front and the trunk (no back seat!) and they fit great, catch a lot of dirt and clean easily.

Redline hood struts are an easy add. I'm not a fan of the prop rod.

I do live in the suburbs but the Boss is not my daily driver (I have a Prius for commuting duties :-\) The side exhaust plates have been removed and likely will not be reinstalled. I can't get enough of the sound of this thing!

I was considering another set of floor mats to keep my original Boss mats in good condition, but again, I don't intend to drive it much so I don't really foresee them getting too spoiled. Though, the Weathertech mats do sound like a good idea!

I've seen guys with the hood struts and I do like those. I may decide to get some later down the line. For now, the prop is sufficient.

I wouldn't change a thing save for camber plates (and then only if you're going to autocross or track the car). Get used to how the car drives in stock form first, find out what you don't like, then modify on that basis. I wouldn't even put the LS splitter on it (though if you can acquire one inexpensively, it'll be good to have it on hand) for daily driving because it's likely to suffer damage from speed bumps, steep driveways, etc. I live in the Silicon Valley area and I won't lower my car more than it already is with the Boss springs because of the "features" of the urban terrain around here.

The Boss is incredibly capable in stock form. It's pretty hard to argue against a 1:40 lap time on stock tires around Laguna Seca in the hands of a pro driver. So if you track or autocross the car, get camber plates to save wear and tear on your front tires, but leave it alone otherwise until you find something you don't like.

It's way better to make changes when you know from experience why you're making them. And it's easier to appreciate the changes when you've experienced the car without them.


(Sent with Tapatalk, so apologies for the lackluster formatting)

I basically have the same idea as you just described. I really want to experience and enjoy the Boss for what it is and how it was engineered. If I ever start to heavily track the car, trust me, I will not cut any corners and may even go overboard (as I've done on several of my previous mustangs). But for now, performance upgrades are not even on my mind.

One thing I do like/want just to enhance appearance a bit is the LS splitter. Though, if I do that, I feel the rear spoiler will need to be replaced for something a bit larger as well, i.e.: LS or GT500 spoiler. But then I keep retracting back to the idea of wanting to keep the car pristine and original. I guess only time will tell

 

[Mad Hatter]

After reading your post again, and without the red mist in my eyes (certified track addict that I have become)........ For a stock Boss, I would get decent pads and the MGW race shifter or Blowfish bracket. When my Boss was stock I killed the 5th gear syncro accelerating up a long hill. The shifter will be nice insurance for the weak shifting at higher rpm. I was supersized how little it took to damage the syncro. Other then that, the Boss is a rock solid beast. Even the clutch spring problem only really happens at the track.

Enjoy your self!

Warning!!! the first day at track school, or trackday! beware....very contagious and expensive addiction often follows.

 

[Sydewaysix]

After reading your post again, and without the red mist in my eyes (certified track addict that I have become)........ For a stock Boss, I would get decent pads and the MGW race shifter or Blowfish bracket. When my Boss was stock I killed the 5th gear syncro accelerating up a long hill. The shifter will be nice insurance for the weak shifting at higher rpm. I was supersized how little it took to damage the syncro. Other then that, the Boss is a rock solid beast. Even the clutch spring problem only really happens at the track.

Enjoy your self!

Warning!!! the first day at track school, or trackday! beware....very contagious and expensive addiction often follows.

"Hi, my name is Ian, and I am addicted to track."

I've been bitten by the bug already! Reason for the Boss purchase was because I told my wife it could be used for Street and Track, preventing me from having to buy 2 toys ;D I've had my fair share of modded ponies, but nothing like the BOSS.

Few of my last toys:


98 Cobra (Saleen clone) w/ the Maximum Motorsports catalog installed. This is the one that got away and have regretted selling it since... :'(




91 Foxbody - Maier Widebody kit, MM setup, 331, etc




89 Foxbody - ex-AMerican Iron car, MM catalog, 306, etc

 

[TMSBOSS]

Ian

Yes, a great place to meet others with same addiction. May not be the best place for a cure. :'(

We don't need no stinking help!!! LOL.

Tires, Wheels, Brakes and gift certificates to track days....All these things we need.

Nice collection of previous rides.

Don't let this one get away.

No 12 steps here. Turn in, Apex, Track out....that about covers it.

 

[302 Hi Pro]

Ian:

I'm diggin the '89 Fox Bod #770! That looks like a fun car! I saw one of these with a Coyote 302 / 430 HP engine at our local car show in June this year. Power to weight ratio was insane!

My must do mod is my Peterson Cobra Jet oil breather can as it totally eliminated oil vapor in the intake manifold. (No carbon build up on intake valves.)

MGW Race Spec shifter as it eliminates the rear mount for the lower shifter box.

One piece aluminum DS. This is a performance mod you can actually feel on WOT standing starts. Plus it removes 20-23 lbs of recripocal weight. Lots of choices and Ford Performance offers a nice direct bolt on replacement.

Rear LCA's and RLCA Relo brackets, this eliminated rear axle hop. Ford Performance Boss 302R or S units.

LS Front Splitter and BFR front tow hook. I use this combo with a Ford Performance rear OEM GT500 rear spoiler with functional Gurny Strip.

Separate the Brake and Hydraulic Clutch Fluid reservoirs, Shelby American makes the best kit, IMO. The clutch TO Bearing transfers a lot of black clutch disc smutch in the fluid. This makes servicing fluids much easier.

Dot 4 High Temp Brake Fluid flush, with new Stainless braided brake lines. Really improves brake pedal and performance and reduces brake fade due to heat. (You have the front brake cooling ducts.

LS Transmission Cooler Scoop by Ford Performance.

Rear Diff housing extended breather tube/line. Eliminates rear diff fluid pushing out of the L/Side axle tube breather. Nice kit from Ford Performance for only $19.

Well, that is about it for the first round of mods. You should run the car and make mods to suite your taste and performance/appearance needs.

I don't use it much but when I do, the new speakers sound really good as the OEM speakers are really cheap units.

Have fun with your Boss!
2HP

This is a nice

 

[drano38]

Congrats on the Boss!
I'd start soon with a passenger catch can.
Then as you get into autocross/track days, prep the car for safety/performance as mentioned in earlier posts. Camber plates/brake pads/fluids and Blowfish bracket or MGW shifter. Peterson breather is great for a track car.
Then continue down the slippery slope with wheels, coil overs, LCA/UCA, WATTS link, etc, etc, etc.

 

[VoodooBoss]

Ian:
My must do mod is my Peterson Cobra Jet oil breather can as it totally eliminated oil vapor in the intake manifold. (No carbon build up on intake valves.)

I wish this would fit on the S550 cars but there's less room under the hood and it won't fit.

 

[Grant 302]

Congrats on the new ride!

With 3,000 miles on the clock, and primary use on the street I would only bother with the DOT4 fluid for now.

I use a passenger side catch can for the street and a petersen breather for the track. Because California.

What I'd recommend for the street:
1. Clutch spring removal. Engagement point is very vague with it in there, and it contributes to clutch pedal sticking with high RPM shifts if your clutch has that problem.

2. Fix wheel hop. If you are leaving the car at stock height, this can be done by using stiffer or smaller diameter bushings in aftermarket LCAs. If you are lowering the car, then LCA brackets become a must do also.

3. Make shifter feel right for you. Everyone will have their favorite fixes. Lookup: blowfish bracket, trans bushing, and various shifter units like Barton, MGW race spec. And know that some shifter issues come from the stock clutch.

For track and auto-X:
Brake ducts, pads, trans scoop, remove rear dust shields, oil-to-air cooler, plus everything else mentioned in this thread. And leave your wallet open. We know how to help spend other people's money!!

 

[GaryA]

You may want to try the Steeda #95 clutch pedal assist spring to see if you like a reduced assist or no spring better. For $15 or so, not a big investment. Get rid of the stock antenna and replace with a good looking shorty. Again, about $15, a five minute job to replace and makes a huge visual improvement.

 

[blacksheep-1]

A couple of observations, the Boss 302 is a great car..as is. Camber plates would be a decent first mod. A baseline of 500-550 front springs, about 300-350 on the rear with the "blue " bar set on the middle hole on front and the 18mm bar on the rear, is a great basic setup.
IMO the oil consumption is a little over rated, but needs to be checked often.
As I recall there are 3 splitter/wing combos, stock Boss 302 front and rear, Boss 302 LS splitter with the IMSA (steeda) rear wing, and the long PWC splitter with the PWC rear wing, don't mix them, just keep them in sets, but IMO you're a long way from worrying about aero at this point.
A "solid" panhard bar is helpful, there are a bunch of rear suspension mods out there but we always ended up going back to the stock PHB style setup in the stock mounting locations and with coil over shocks.
The front , we went with as.much camber as possible.
Pretty simple car, just relax and enjoy it.

 

[Sydewaysix]

Thanks all! I experienced the dreaded wheel hop this weekend on a spirited run through the canyons. Never had a car do this in the past :-\ I don't intend to straight-line race so I'm not too concerned, but I'd like the rear to put the power down to the ground properly. Seems that the solution for this would be aftermarket LCA and a relocation kit.

Are try brake lines on these cars as bad as past mustang brake lines? Do they also require replacement with SS lines for track duty?

Do these have any caster/camber adjustability in stock form or do they require CC plates to adjust?


@blacksheep-1 , you listed different sway bar sizes and spring combos. Although I don't necessarily need these right now, what brand do you recommend for these specific components? As for wing and splitter combos, I likely won't feel the difference in down force as I'm technically a newbie track rat, but I do want an LS splitter and larger rear wing/spoiler for aesthetics purposes. Likely the LS or GT500 spoiler.

 

[Sydewaysix]

Ian:

I'm diggin the '89 Fox Bod #770! That looks like a fun car! I saw one of these with a Coyote 302 / 430 HP engine at our local car show in June this year. Power to weight ratio was insane!

Thanks, Dave! I bought the car already built but sold it shortly after as I realized it needed to be used more than once a year. Having to trailer it and not being able to enjoy it on the streets made for an expensive paper weight! The car is now owned by a great guy in southern CA and he uses it as intended! I was able to catch up with him at the recent Shelby Mini Nats and he's added a few things to further enhance the car's capabilities. The car moves very well!

Congrats on the new ride!

With 3,000 miles on the clock, and primary use on the street I would only bother with the DOT4 fluid for now.

I use a passenger side catch can for the street and a petersen breather for the track. Because California.

What I'd recommend for the street:
1. Clutch spring removal. Engagement point is very vague with it in there, and it contributes to clutch pedal sticking with high RPM shifts if your clutch has that problem.

2. Fix wheel hop. If you are leaving the car at stock height, this can be done by using stiffer or smaller diameter bushings in aftermarket LCAs. If you are lowering the car, then LCA brackets become a must do also.

3. Make shifter feel right for you. Everyone will have their favorite fixes. Lookup: blowfish bracket, trans bushing, and various shifter units like Barton, MGW race spec. And know that some shifter issues come from the stock clutch.

.

Spot on what I was thinking, Grant! Thank you!

 

[blacksheep-1]

Thanks all! I experienced the dreaded wheel hop this weekend on a spirited run through the canyons. Never had a car do this in the past :-\ I don't intend to straight-line race so I'm not too concerned, but I'd like the rear to put the power down to the ground properly. Seems that the solution for this would be aftermarket LCA and a relocation kit.

Are try brake lines on these cars as bad as past mustang brake lines? Do they also require replacement with SS lines for track duty?

Do these have any caster/camber adjustability in stock form or do they require CC plates to adjust?


@blacksheep-1 , you listed different sway bar sizes and spring combos. Although I don't necessarily need these right now, what brand do you recommend for these specific components? As for wing and splitter combos, I likely won't feel the difference in down force as I'm technically a newbie track rat, but I do want an LS splitter and larger rear wing/spoiler for aesthetics purposes. Likely the LS or GT500 spoiler.

The Ford performance "blue bar" for the front, scrounge around and find an 18 mm rear bar, I think the V6s had them should be a million of them out there someplace. As far as springs and shocks, I would look through the manufacturers on this page, as long as they are name brand stuff , you should be fine, same with shocks. I would resist the idea of going to coil overs for quite awhile, and just run the stock style stuff.Stainless brake lines are always a good mod, if just for peace of mind. If I were you I'd go with the IMSA front and rear splitters/ spoilers, the PWC stuff can look a little "ricey" if not on a competition car, that and the IMSA stuff works really well, but don't mix them. We've had them both in a wind tunnel and mixing them is a big no no. Just run the IMSA stuff if you want a good stable combination.
With regards to the wheel hop, that's probably a function of the stock control arms in the rear, again, check with the advertisers to find a good system "package" that includes and adjustable PHB and the upper and lower arms. Remarkably both our IMSA and PWC cars all use the stock locations and the PHB setup, nothing fancy, we either use the 18mm bar or unhook it entirely, that's about it on the rear.

 

[kcbrown]

Thanks all! I experienced the dreaded wheel hop this weekend on a spirited run through the canyons. Never had a car do this in the past :-\ I don't intend to straight-line race so I'm not too concerned, but I'd like the rear to put the power down to the ground properly. Seems that the solution for this would be aftermarket LCA and a relocation kit.

Careful. If you relocate the LCAs without lowering the rear, you change the rear geometry not just in terms of anti-squat, but also in terms of roll steer (if you increase the anti-squat, the end result is roll oversteer as the endpoint of the outside LCA is pushed towards the rear while the endpoint of the inside LCA is pulled towards the front during cornering).

There's a long thread around here on the subject of wheel hop and how best to deal with it, but I can't seem to find it. I think it might have been a long discussion/debate about whether to replace the UCA instead of the LCAs, or vice versa, for the purpose of dealing with the issue.

Are try brake lines on these cars as bad as past mustang brake lines? Do they also require replacement with SS lines for track duty?

The ones on the Boss are a low-expansion design. While that might not be quite as good as stainless steel, it's supposedly a lot better than the standard fare. I suspect that they'll work just fine for occasional track duty (if you track the car a lot, on the other hand, then stainless may well be the way to go).

Do these have any caster/camber adjustability in stock form or do they require CC plates to adjust?

You really want camber plates if you're asking this question. There is no substitute, it's a one-time expense, and it's money well worth spending.

As for wing and splitter combos, I likely won't feel the difference in down force as I'm technically a newbie track rat, but I do want an LS splitter and larger rear wing/spoiler for aesthetics purposes. Likely the LS or GT500 spoiler.

You need to be careful about the splitter if you're going to drive the car on the street. And if you're not going to feel it on the track, either, then you're way better off keeping the splitter in reserve for the point in time where you're good enough to feel the difference. On the splitter/wing combo, I'd stick with what you have for the time being, and maybe buy the aesthetic combination that is most pleasing with an eye towards deploying it later once you've got the experience to appreciate the functional difference.



So, the bottom line as far as I'm concerned is: get camber/caster plates, and make no other changes to the car's suspension (I wouldn't change anything about the engine, either) until you've driven it at least two to three events on the track to really get a feel for the car. Of course, if you find you're not having fun with it for those first few events (yeah, right!), then by all means make changes (at least then you'll have a better idea of what you don't like).

I wouldn't even change the shifter, at least not yet. See what it's like to drive it stock. What I've found with mine is that on the street, the shifter tends to grind a little going into gear sometimes, mainly when the engine and driveline are cold, but on the track the entire drivetrain gets warm enough that the shifter slides into place like butter. There is one change I made with respect to that, and that is to install the Whiteline transmission bushing with the center "tongue" removed, and that may be why I don't really experience the problems that others here have. Driving this transmission is different from those previous Mustangs, and requires a light touch, particularly with respect to side forces on the shifter (you want the internal springs to do the positioning work for you when shifting into 3rd and 4th).

Oh, one last modification I highly recommend for the track: a rear axle overflow can setup, such as the one I got: http://shop.bobsautosports.com/Mustang-2005-14-axle-reservoir-KR-style-axle-reservoir.htm. There's quite a variety of axle reservoirs out there, and you could probably craft your own without too much trouble if you wanted, but either way, it's worth having to ensure you don't drip oil onto the track. I had mine installed as a preventative measure as opposed to in response to an actual issue.

 

[Mad Hatter]

One upgrade that you might consider...... Safety!! 5pt plus harness plus I got the MM 6pt roll bar and I can still use the car for short hops by removing the harness bar (Have lots of foam padding on the rest). And a Hans (that takes some getting used to).

At least they make you feel safer!!!

 

[Shaun12]

For the daily driving mods.....

Honestly this is a beast of a car, stock. One of the best driving cars I've personally experienced from the show room floor.

For driving around town i'd say, oil catch can of some sorts. MGW shifter. The stock unit is nice, but you will notice 3-4 lock outs when romping on the car...its a design issue. There are other options to help with it, but the best option is the MGW. Get a sub and amp to wake the base stereo up a little...i went with a Kicker VSS system for the boss 302. really night and day to make the daily driving that much more enjoyable (say what you want about only hearing the revs of the motor, I'm stuck in traffic all day long, lol) I also did some personality mods for my car...i added 2013-14 GT fog lights and interior ambient lights, and tinted out all the lights.

When you decide to track the car...again its a beast of a car. I did the following, and most have as well if not more.

You'll want fresh oil and filter, of course.
*Slotted rotors and track oriented pads. The brembos are good, but won't hold up to heat and time. You have a plus with the brake ducts already.
*Flush the brake fluid system, replace with high quality DOT 4 fluid. I use SRF, expensive, but works for me.
*Remote clutch reservoir, will hopefully prevent any clutch/ pedal issues.
*Sticker tires
*TOW HOOKS, front and back.
*And of course the safety mods that have been mentioned....helmet, gloves, shoes, suit if you can afford it. These cars can and will catch fire and you only get one chance. A GT 350 caught fire this year on track from a busted oil line at over 100 mph.

There are a shiznit ton more mods to be done. Those are the basic that I've done and works for me so far.

 

[k98dave]

Are try brake lines on these cars as bad as past mustang brake lines? Do they also require replacement with SS lines for track duty?


Actually the stock lines are just about as good as aftermarket lines used on FOX bodies. SS lines will always improve pedal feel but not overall braking distance. Also don't waste money on SS clutch line unless you going with long tube headers.

I did add a remote clutch fluid resv and a master cylinder brace that Blowfish Racing has. That made a noticeable improvement in brake pedal feel.

 

[LS291]

I want to say thanks to Sydewaysix and everybody who responded to this thread with suggestions. I happen to be a new Boss owner within the past year as well and have similar intentions with mine. These posts are very valuable to those of us who are still newbies to Boss ownership.

I think that as the general price of these cars continues to decline, more of these "Where do I start" questions will pop up.

I read through this thread and others that are similar a couple of times and actually put together a spreadsheet of mods and suggestions as I have come across them on TMO. Nerdy, I know, but it sure helps keep track of information.

I have to say that this is best Mustang forum I have ever been a part of. Thanks everybody!