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Anyone running a WOTBOX?

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
Friend of mine told me about it. Its a box you install so you can wide open throttle shift and gives you launch control as well. Downfall I have read is it will destroy your cats. I really just want it for the WOT shifting not the two step feature. I would assum this is where you get the most damage from.

Www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=85145&highlight=wotbox

http://www.npcompleteperformance.com/wotbox
 
Justin said:
Friend of mine told me about it. Its a box you install so you can wide open throttle shift and gives you launch control as well. Downfall I have read is it will destroy your cats. I really just want it for the WOT shifting not the two step feature. I would assum this is where you get the most damage from.

Www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=85145&highlight=wotbox

http://www.npcompleteperformance.com/wotbox

I don't know anything about the product. However, it would seem to me that the 2-step part would ruin the cats, because most 2-steps deliberately cause a misfire to control RPM, which causes a lot of unburned fuel for the cats to burn.
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
SoFlaBoss said:
Justin said:
Friend of mine told me about it. Its a box you install so you can wide open throttle shift and gives you launch control as well. Downfall I have read is it will destroy your cats. I really just want it for the WOT shifting not the two step feature. I would assum this is where you get the most damage from.

Www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=85145&highlight=wotbox

http://www.npcompleteperformance.com/wotbox

I don't know anything about the product. However, it would seem to me that the 2-step part would ruin the cats, because most 2-steps deliberately cause a misfire to control RPM, which causes a lot of unburned fuel for the cats to burn.
Thats what I am thinking. you can disable that feature if you want. I really just want to have the wide open throttle shifting as that will be worth some ET at the track.
 
We've seen the following problems with it:
1. Blown cats
2. Misfire codes (can disable misfire detection in the tune but it may still throw a P0315)

There are ways to tune in a feature for easier powershifting. (I do this in the drag tune)
Along with a few hardware modifications powershifting the MT-82 is butter.

Hardware mods:
1. Drill out the restrictions in the stock clutch line or install an aftermarket line.
2. Swap the brake/clutch fluid for 600+ degree boiling point fluid.
3. Frictiin modifier in the transmission. (I run Royal purple gear oil that comes with friction modifier already mixed in)

After your burnout pump the clutch a dozen times as you are staging.

The main flaw with our clutch setup is the slave/throw out assembly. It boils the clutch fluid as it heats up causing air to form in the system, which then prevents clutch disengagement.

I've yet to shift my GT above 7K, but Adam from Revolution powershifts his GT at 7800 with the clutch line, good trans fluid, and an RST twin disc.
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
We've seen the following problems with it:
1. Blown cats
2. Misfire codes (can disable misfire detection in the tune but it may still throw a P0315)

There are ways to tune in a feature for easier powershifting. (I do this in the drag tune)
Along with a few hardware modifications powershifting the MT-82 is butter.

Hardware mods:
1. Drill out the restrictions in the stock clutch line or install an aftermarket line.
2. Swap the brake/clutch fluid for 600+ degree boiling point fluid.
3. Frictiin modifier in the transmission. (I run Royal purple gear oil that comes with friction modifier already mixed in)

After your burnout pump the clutch a dozen times as you are staging.

The main flaw with our clutch setup is the slave/throw out assembly. It boils the clutch fluid as it heats up causing air to form in the system, which then prevents clutch disengagement.

I've yet to shift my GT above 7K, but Adam from Revolution powershifts his GT at 7800 with the clutch line, good trans fluid, and an RST twin disc.
I did see on the lethal site this
NOTE: Job 2 2011-2012 5.0L Mustang GT's sometimes experience misfire codes due to some changes in the factory calibration. In order to fix the code from coming up on the car your tuner will need to copy over the misfire tables from Job 1 over to the Job 2 tune. Doing so will prevent the misfire code from throwing a check engine light.

Maybe you know what that means.

I really like the WOT shifting idea. I could run cat delete pipes for the track and use the wotbox. I have a JHR clutch line coming. Dont have the fluid. The big thing I hate about my clutch now is at redline shifts from 2-3-4 it hangs up about midway and changes the grab point to almost the floor. Then I have to pump the clutch to "clear" it.

I am running Redline MTL in the trans now it helped the rowing acting along with the MGW shifter.

Can you provide a link to the fluid you recommend?
 
Justin said:
We've seen the following problems with it:
1. Blown cats
2. Misfire codes (can disable misfire detection in the tune but it may still throw a P0315)

There are ways to tune in a feature for easier powershifting. (I do this in the drag tune)
Along with a few hardware modifications powershifting the MT-82 is butter.

Hardware mods:
1. Drill out the restrictions in the stock clutch line or install an aftermarket line.
2. Swap the brake/clutch fluid for 600+ degree boiling point fluid.
3. Frictiin modifier in the transmission. (I run Royal purple gear oil that comes with friction modifier already mixed in)

After your burnout pump the clutch a dozen times as you are staging.

The main flaw with our clutch setup is the slave/throw out assembly. It boils the clutch fluid as it heats up causing air to form in the system, which then prevents clutch disengagement.

I've yet to shift my GT above 7K, but Adam from Revolution powershifts his GT at 7800 with the clutch line, good trans fluid, and an RST twin disc.
I did see on the lethal site this
NOTE: Job 2 2011-2012 5.0L Mustang GT's sometimes experience misfire codes due to some changes in the factory calibration. In order to fix the code from coming up on the car your tuner will need to copy over the misfire tables from Job 1 over to the Job 2 tune. Doing so will prevent the misfire code from throwing a check engine light.

Maybe you know what that means.

I really like the WOT shifting idea. I could run cat delete pipes for the track and use the wotbox. I have a JHR clutch line coming. Dont have the fluid. The big thing I hate about my clutch now is at redline shifts from 2-3-4 it hangs up about midway and changes the grab point to almost the floor. Then I have to pump the clutch to "clear" it.

I am running Redline MTL in the trans now it helped the rowing acting along with the MGW shifter.

Can you provide a link to the fluid you recommend?

Miss fire detection is used for the Cats. Miss fires put raw fuel into the cats and can blow them out (like the WOT box does), so Ford has logic that will actually shut down injectors when the miss fire threshold is achieved. Turning off the codes does not stop this process.

Hell, I disabled miss fire detection on my GT and guess what..... I have a permanent P0315 stored. Not in KAM or detectable by an Xcal, but it's there. These ECU's are VERY sophisticated.

Pumping the clutch bleeds the slave, which indicates you are suffering from boiled clutch fluid. I swapped over to Tilton TSR-1 fluid and what a difference.... I actually have data logs to back it up. .2-.25 second shifts before with Dot 4, .1-.15 second shifts with TSR-1. I am VERY pleased with the performance, however I have not tested it shifting at higher RPM's. I would assume the bulk of the additional heat will be on launch as the shift point recovery will be the same regardless of RPM.... But who knows. Real world can be different than theory.
 
I run a WOTBOX in my 2010 GT500 and i absolutely love it, it works flawlessly and it actually circumvents the 1-2 shift issue most 10-12 GT500's have built into them from the factory.....smooth as butter wot shifts...if i mod my Boss for the strip the WOTBOX is definately on my list of must haves...
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
12WhiteBoss said:
I run a WOTBOX in my 2010 GT500 and i absolutely love it, it works flawlessly and it actually circumvents the 1-2 shift issue most 10-12 GT500's have built into them from the factory.....smooth as butter wot shifts...if i mod my Boss for the strip the WOTBOX is definately on my list of must haves...
Are you running cats with it?
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
Justin said:
We've seen the following problems with it:
1. Blown cats
2. Misfire codes (can disable misfire detection in the tune but it may still throw a P0315)

There are ways to tune in a feature for easier powershifting. (I do this in the drag tune)
Along with a few hardware modifications powershifting the MT-82 is butter.

Hardware mods:
1. Drill out the restrictions in the stock clutch line or install an aftermarket line.
2. Swap the brake/clutch fluid for 600+ degree boiling point fluid.
3. Frictiin modifier in the transmission. (I run Royal purple gear oil that comes with friction modifier already mixed in)

After your burnout pump the clutch a dozen times as you are staging.

The main flaw with our clutch setup is the slave/throw out assembly. It boils the clutch fluid as it heats up causing air to form in the system, which then prevents clutch disengagement.

I've yet to shift my GT above 7K, but Adam from Revolution powershifts his GT at 7800 with the clutch line, good trans fluid, and an RST twin disc.
I did see on the lethal site this
NOTE: Job 2 2011-2012 5.0L Mustang GT's sometimes experience misfire codes due to some changes in the factory calibration. In order to fix the code from coming up on the car your tuner will need to copy over the misfire tables from Job 1 over to the Job 2 tune. Doing so will prevent the misfire code from throwing a check engine light.

Maybe you know what that means.

I really like the WOT shifting idea. I could run cat delete pipes for the track and use the wotbox. I have a JHR clutch line coming. Dont have the fluid. The big thing I hate about my clutch now is at redline shifts from 2-3-4 it hangs up about midway and changes the grab point to almost the floor. Then I have to pump the clutch to "clear" it.

I am running Redline MTL in the trans now it helped the rowing acting along with the MGW shifter.

Can you provide a link to the fluid you recommend?

Miss fire detection is used for the Cats. Miss fires put raw fuel into the cats and can blow them out (like the WOT box does), so Ford has logic that will actually shut down injectors when the miss fire threshold is achieved. Turning off the codes does not stop this process.

Hell, I disabled miss fire detection on my GT and guess what..... I have a permanent P0315 stored. Not in KAM or detectable by an Xcal, but it's there. These ECU's are VERY sophisticated.

Pumping the clutch bleeds the slave, which indicates you are suffering from boiled clutch fluid. I swapped over to Tilton TSR-1 fluid and what a difference.... I actually have data logs to back it up. .2-.25 second shifts before with Dot 4, .1-.15 second shifts with TSR-1. I am VERY pleased with the performance, however I have not tested it shifting at higher RPM's. I would assume the bulk of the additional heat will be on launch as the shift point recovery will be the same regardless of RPM.... But who knows. Real world can be different than theory.
Thank you. I am going to order some of that fluid. how many bottles does it take? I just got my JHR clutch line in yesterday along with the boss cooling scoop (hoping that helps how the trans gets sometimes on long trips)
 
I bought a case of fluid and used 7.5 bottles, but I bleed the $hit out of the system to ensure all the old fluid was gone.

FYI: 2010's don't have wideband O2's or the same misfire detection logic.
2010's are not a true Copperhead ECU like the 11/12's. Totally different animal programming wise.
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
I bought a case of fluid and used 7.5 bottles, but I bleed the $hit out of the system to ensure all the old fluid was gone.

FYI: 2010's don't have wideband O2's or the same misfire detection logic.
2010's are not a true Copperhead ECU like the 11/12's. Totally different animal programming wise.
7.5 bottles at 15 bucks a qt...its like a 3 foot hose???
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
Just to share with the group this is what I have got from the people that make the WOTBOX

Yes, it should be ok as long as you keep the no-lift shift time short.
The launch control may be ok, when used appropriately. That is, a short duration hold right before launching. But, we cannot guarantee it.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Thanks,
Jon


On 8/7/2012 5:45 AM, Cunningham, Justin E FC1 NNSY, CVN-77 wrote:
> Jon,
> So if I just use it solely for WOT shifting it should be ok?
>
> VR,
> FC1(SW)Cunningham, Justin
> CVN77 Advanced Planning Team
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: NP Complete Performance [mailto:[email protected]]
> On Behalf Of N2MB Racing - Jon
> Sent: Monday, August 06, 2012 22:38
> To: Cunningham, Justin E FC1 NNSY, CVN-77
> Subject: Re: WOTBOX
>
> Hi,
>
> Yes, if the WOT Box is used with stock cats and you hold the launch
> control for too long, it will over heat the cats and melt them down
> due to the unburnt fuel that is released. Aftermarket cats tend to
> fare better, but no cats is the safest.
>
> Let me know if you have any questions.
>
> Thanks,
> Jon
>
>
> On 8/6/2012 8:32 AM, Cunningham, Justin E FC1 NNSY, CVN-77 wrote:
>> I heard that the WOTBOX is not to be ran with cats in place as it will destroy them. Is this the case? I have a 2012 Boss 302 and don't want to ruin the cats in the car. Thanks for you time.
>>
>> VR,
>> FC1(SW)Cunningham, Justin
>> CVN77 Advanced Planning Team
>>
>>

--
Jon
N2MB Racing
www.n2mb.com
 
I did the brakes as well due to cross contamination, however I have a Tilton remote reservior sitting at the shop as I was going to seperate the 2.

If you'd like the reservior let me know.
 
I am interested in how to separate the reservoirs as well.

Is the Tilton fluid streetable like ATE Super Blue? Mostly I mean can it be left in there for years at a time or does it go bad quick like Motul and the other "race" fluids allegedly do. I need to vacuum bleed my clutch every 3-400 miles or my tranny gets cranky and the clutch pedal starts slowing down, I had a bad leak that Ford is fixing so it might be that my fluid is just wet from air exposure but I see no reason not to flush it to better fluid if it is available.
 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
6,719
3,919
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Illinois
steveespo said:
Shaun
Can you do a DIY on how to separate the clutch and brake reservoirs. I would be interested in that idea too.
Steve

I haven't done it.
If you would like to I have the reservior setup ready to go.

Cost???
 

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