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Anyone upgrade to this clutch line?

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
I was looking around lethal's site and saw this.
http://www.lethalperformance.com/2012-boss-mustang-302-transmission-clutch-line-upgrades-c-10853_11213_11929/jhr-2011-2012-mustang-mt-82-high-volume-clutch-line-upgrade-p-37483
wonder if it will make the pedal more consistant
 
I have one ordered and plan to install it ASAP to correct the problem that causes the clutch pedal to not return and prevents you from being able to shift from 3rd to 4th gear at near-redline shifts, which several people have experienced, including me. :-[
 
Scott, 2012YellowBoss, has one so maybe he'll respond.

I haven't had any shifting issues...yet...but I'm keeping up on what solutions are out there.
 
I have it installed and put several track days on it. My clutch only stuck twice in many track days prior to installing the line. Since installing it the clutch has not stuck down but only time will tell since it is nearly impossible to duplicate the problem. For people having the problem I would say go ahead and install it for the low cost of the line - or as the service manager said when I asked him about it "can't hurt to give it a try". I can not say for sure that it will fix any problems.
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
2012YellowBoss said:
I have it installed and put several track days on it. My clutch only stuck twice in many track days prior to installing the line. Since installing it the clutch has not stuck down but only time will tell since it is nearly impossible to duplicate the problem. For people having the problem I would say go ahead and install it for the low cost of the line - or as the service manager said when I asked him about it "can't hurt to give it a try". I can not say for sure that it will fix any problems.
yeah thats how I feel cant hurt to give it a try. I am looking into going with a new clutch in the future probably a spec stage 1 or centerforce dual friction. should be top notch once I get the driveshaft, mgw shifter, clutch line and a upgraded clutch in the car. I will probably go with a sfi approved billet steel flywheel it will save a little weight and it will be safer
 
2012, have you ever had the clutch come up then stick half way up and pulse the brake pedal then come all the way up? I had it happen the like 5th session of the day, so I took it in then it happened again the 6th. The shop that I am having work on my E30 thinks it is either boiled fluid allowing bubbles when hot or the slave cylinder.
 
CaliMR said:
2012, have you ever had the clutch come up then stick half way up and pulse the brake pedal then come all the way up? I had it happen the like 5th session of the day, so I took it in then it happened again the 6th. The shop that I am having work on my E30 thinks it is either boiled fluid allowing bubbles when hot or the slave cylinder.
Do you have dot4 brake fluid in yours?
 
Not exactly.

I have ATE amber 200 Dot 4 in the MC and I flushed the brake lines, but I didn't realize there wasn't a bleeder for the clutch like my other cars so I didn't get a chance to do the clutch. I built an adapter for my vacuum pump and that is on my list along with the tranny, diff and oil.
 
CaliMR said:
Not exactly.

I have ATE amber 200 Dot 4 in the MC and I flushed the brake lines, but I didn't realize there wasn't a bleeder for the clutch like my other cars so I didn't get a chance to do the clutch. I built an adapter for my vacuum pump and that is on my list along with the tranny, diff and oil.
In another posting it shows for the trak ford recomends the dot4 this may make a difference my personal opinion is maybe seperating the clutch from the brakes may make a difference?
 
How would you go about separating them? I'll see when I bleed the clutch how nasty the fluid is, but was curious if anyone else had this particular problem.
 
CaliMR said:
How would you go about separating them? I'll see when I bleed the clutch how nasty the fluid is, but was curious if anyone else had this particular problem.
How do you bleed the clutch? I herd there is no bleeder I bought the line upgrade and a vacume kit and now ordering the fluid.
 
From the 2011 manual, section 308-00-2



1. Make sure all hydraulic tubes are correctly seated.
2. Make sure the clutch pedal is in the most upward position.
3. Check the fluid level of the brake/clutch reservoir. Fill the reservoir with the specified fluid to the MAX mark.
4. Using a suitable bleeder kit and a Vacuum Pump Kit, install the rubber stopper in the reservoir opening. Make sure the rubber stopper has a tight fit.
• Alternate method: use a 50 mm (1.96 in) rubber stopper with an 8 mm (0.31 in) pipe inserted through the rubber stopper.
5. Holding the rubber stopper in place, operate the vacuum pump to 15-20 inches of vacuum. Hold the vacuum for one minute, then quickly relieve the
vacuum. Remove the special tools.
6. Check the fluid level of the reservoir. Fill the reservoir with the specified fluid to the MAX mark. Install the reservoir cap.
7. Depress and release the clutch pedal 10 to 12 times or until clutch pedal effort is consistent and positive at top of clutch pedal travel.
8. Repeat Steps 4 through 6 two additional times or until clutch pedal effort is consistent and positive at top of clutch pedal travel.
9. Install the reservoir cap.
10. Check the clutch pedal reserve. Test the clutch system for normal operation.



I built an adapter for the Motive Bleeder Mustang cap, so it will attach to my vacuum kit. I haven't done it yet, but that should work.
 
I just posted how to bleed the clutch, since there is no bleeder. That was cut and paste from the service manual. You bleed it by applying vacuum to the MC
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
no bleeder!!! what the hell ford. thats like no dipstick on the autos on the newer stangs. err I dont want to buy a 400 bleeder kit just to install a 60 dollar part.
 
Ok so hear is what I am finding the line just pops on so really you are bleeding the line so the pump trick should be fine I guess?
 
Ok read your post and the directions from ford on how to bleed it in reality the vacume pump is probably not needed the air will bleed out from pedal pumping I have done this years back when I was racing.
 

Dvendet

Everyone's entitled to my opinion. ;)
boss2511 said:
no bleeder!!! what the hell ford. thats like no dipstick on the autos on the newer stangs. err I dont want to buy a 400 bleeder kit just to install a 60 dollar part.

I found this for $74.
Black Label GM/Ford 3-Tab Power Bleeder 0118
Part Number 011
http://motiveproducts.3dcartstores.com/Black-Label-GMFord-3-Tab-Power-Bleeder-0118_p_104.html

MMD
 
That is a pressure bleeder, not a vacuum bleeder. There is no bleeder for the clutch, so you need to do it with vacuum. Or you can just pump, but Ford says to use the vacuum. Pumping alone did not work on mine, and I pumped it a ton.
 

Dvendet

Everyone's entitled to my opinion. ;)
CaliMR said:
That is a pressure bleeder, not a vacuum bleeder. There is no bleeder for the clutch, so you need to do it with vacuum. Or you can just pump, but Ford says to use the vacuum. Pumping alone did not work on mine, and I pumped it a ton.
Yep-My Bad- I should of read one of your other posts regarding the clutch not having a bleeder valve. Got to have vacumn.

Cali have you seen this?

http://www.lethalperformance.com/2010-mustang-gt/transmission/clutch-line-upgrades/jhr-2005-2012-mustang-high-volume-clutch-line-upgrade.html

You think this is a worth while addition?

MMD
 

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