The Mustang Forum for Track & Racing Enthusiasts

Taking your Mustang to an open track/HPDE event for the first time? Do you race competitively? This forum is for you! Log in to remove most ads.

  • Welcome to the Ford Mustang forum built for owners of the Mustang GT350, BOSS 302, GT500, and all other S550, S197, SN95, Fox Body and older Mustangs set up for open track days, road racing, and/or autocross. Join our forum, interact with others, share your build, and help us strengthen this community!

Anyone upgrade to this clutch line?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

I have no idea, as I have not tried it on this car. I can only guess based on experience with other cars, and what I have heard here.

From what I read here, our clutch line does not have a restrictor pill like many other cars (forces the clutch to move slower, common on imports at least) so the size of the line is a real size. I don't know how much stretch the stock line has either. On a car with a restrictor or with a spungy line, my Evo having both, removing the restrictor pill was a big improvement and people who did braided lines said it was even better because the stiffer lines gave better control. But that doesn't mean it will be a big improvement on our cars. I have boiled the clutch fluid and I wasn't running it too hard on track but I suspect it was from bubbles from the factory (I had brake bubbles from the factory).

Someone must have done it on their car by now, it is a pretty common mod, so they will be more useful than I am. I am completely happy with my clutch as it sits now with it bled, assuming it doesn't boil again. A bigger line that allows the clutch to move faster may help with heat, in theory, as it is slipping that causes the most heat (I am assuming, as that is how it works with tires or brakes and most other stuff). Heat is the enemy. My understanding, from the import world, is that they usually limit clutch speed to protect the drivetrain. If you removed it then side stepped the clutch at 5k rpm in an Evo like I had, you were going to blow up the transfer case. So they set the weak point as the rag clutch and added the restrictor to force some slipping. Now that was an AWD turbo car so it hit hard and the tires didn't like to spin, our cars are rwd so it probably isn't as big an issue and really is only an issue if you launch it hard, don't rev match, or power shift and are side stepping the clutch. I suspect the high stretch lines that they use for most cars are also designed to absorb some of the shock, and the brake lines too. I have never heard anyone claim that, but it makes sense to me.

Braided lines have their own set of issues, people either like them or don't and will argue over whether the downsides are real or not. I like them, but you have to keep an eye on them. I have seen more braided lines burst than rubber, but have seen more rubber lines leak. I suspect the lack of give and the increased shock to them is what causes it.

But most of that is conjecture based on what I have seen and done and the results. I am no scientist nor engineer, and if someone knows more than I do then please say so. The line is overkill for the street imo but I would do it if I was in there anyways.
 
2012YellowBoss has the line on his Boss. I think the key to that line is not SS but that it's larger and will flow more.
 
Does he think it made an improvement? The width should only matter up to a certain size, as the nib on the end is still a bottleneck.
 
From post 3
2012YellowBoss said:
I have it installed and put several track days on it. My clutch only stuck twice in many track days prior to installing the line. Since installing it the clutch has not stuck down but only time will tell since it is nearly impossible to duplicate the problem. For people having the problem I would say go ahead and install it for the low cost of the line - or as the service manager said when I asked him about it "can't hurt to give it a try". I can not say for sure that it will fix any problems.

I think the idea behind the SS line is for no expansion, like the brake lines. So far the line has worked for me and the clutch does feel better not only on track but normal street driving.
 
I think the advantage of that line is that it is SS it does not swell at all when in use the hole at the end is less restrictive by a local hydraulic guy told me the advantage is that the stock cheap one when under full pressure can swell a bit he told me the ristriction most likly wont change anything being hydralic? I bought one and look forward to installing it very much maybe in a few weeks.
 
I was thinking about it a bit, and if it holds higher volume then maybe it would dissipate the heat through more fluid kind of like how brakes only burn the fluid near the caliper. The stiffer walls are probably the main advantage though. But as I think I said, I have seen more braided lines burst than rubber ones. Just take a peek at it every once in a while and check for corrosion and stuff.
 
CaliMR said:
I was thinking about it a bit, and if it holds higher volume then maybe it would dissipate the heat through more fluid kind of like how brakes only burn the fluid near the caliper. The stiffer walls are probably the main advantage though. But as I think I said, I have seen more braided lines burst than rubber ones. Just take a peek at it every once in a while and check for corrosion and stuff.
The stock line is a cheap plastic one looking at this line it has got to last longer then stock.
 
Here's what's posted on the JHR website:

"JHR HIGH VOLUME CLUTCH LINE AND FITTING KIT
JHR high volume clutch fluid line and fitting kit for 2005-2012 Mustangs. This kit is designed to eliminate restrictions found in the OEM hydraulic line and as an added benefit the teflon lined stainless steel reinforced design also resists bulging even under the most extreme conditions."

Someone should call them and discuss the benefits and then report back.

http://www.hecticparts.com/products/JHR-HIGH-VOLUME-CLUTCH-LINE-AND-FITTING-KIT.html
 
Here's a good video that JHR posted that explains about the new line and the restrictions built into the OEM line.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m_5U1j-gXGc
 
That factory line sucks. I didn't notice it was hard plastic when I was poking in there, I assumed it was a stiff rubber. It could very well be an major aggravating factor in the issues though I suspect the shifter is another big one as well as the particular clutch they used.
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
CaliMR said:
That factory line sucks. I didn't notice it was hard plastic when I was poking in there, I assumed it was a stiff rubber. It could very well be an major aggravating factor in the issues though I suspect the shifter is another big one as well as the particular clutch they used.
there are many things I want to change to get a smooth running clutch. shifter/clutch line/centerforce DYAD clutch/MTL fluid. if that doesnt cure what ales me I will be ordering a T56 swap kit a few years from now.
 
Youtube is so slow, I have only seen up to the part where he flips the end nun around. Still loading... but that alone is enough for me. That tight back end is effectively a restrictor pill and needs to go. That was one of the first things I considered but people said there was no restriction. I did effectively the same mod on another car that had similar shifting feel (but no clutch stick issues) and it helped a lot.
 
Saw most of the video now... that plastic receptacle, now I understand why these have the slave cylinder leak around the o-ring issue. If I were building a real track car, I would want to replace that too if a metal version is available just for durability. Having had a BMW, and having an older one as my track car, I have seen what happens to plastic pieces like that near heat sources.


Though I still suspect the restriction is in there to protect the clutch from people who don't know how to shift.
 

TMO Supporting Vendors

Latest posts

Buy TMO Apparel

Buy TMO Apparel
Top