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APR Carbon Fiber Wing

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Posting this here for general viewing.

Some pics of my APR wing and install notes. My car is dirty still. Been raining here so haven't washed it yet.

wingpic5.jpg


The wing base rails are separate and the wing brackets slide onto the rails and open ended screws screw into the brackets, through the rails from underneath the trunck. To mount, get a helper and position the wing on the rails on your trunk where desire. The wing is vertically balanced and will stand upright under its own weight.

NOTE: The rear bracket adjuster can be seen. It is a long hexical nut attached to screws at both ends. Rotating it will cause the wing to tilt up or down to get the desired angle.

wingpic4.jpg


To square it off, you need a minimum of two triangulated measures on each side. Pick a fixed corner of the trunk edge and measure to the tip of the nearby rail, at its top, and another measurement at the bottom of the rail. Using that same fixed point on the opposite side, adjust until the two measurements on both sides are equal. The measurements on one side will differ because you are measuring from the same fixed point to two separate points (the ends of the rail). Write these measurements down. Be accurate to the finest degree.

Once you've got the wing base "square", Use a wax pencil and demarcate the base rails by drawing a few lines around them on the trunk. That will give you a rough framing to come back to. Using painters tape, tape down the base rails while the wing is still positioned square. Then lift the wing straight up without jostling the base rails. Re-measure the base rails according to the measurements you took and wrote down. If they shifted, then lift the tape, adjust them and secure the tape again.

Using the wax pencil, mark a dot in the screw holes in the base rails. This is where you will drill. With the rails positioned exactly over the wax dots now, measure them again and ensure it is still the same, otherwise, go back and repeat.

wingpic2.jpg

NOTE: The base of the wing actually is designed as a "suspension" and will flex to avoid harsh impacts on the underneath surface.

Remove the base rails, leaving the wax pencil markings (having measure the rails at least 3 times before and after the dots). Using appropriate drill bit (don't recall what I used off top of my head), drill a lead hole through the wax dot and through the back of the trunk, including the second layer of the trunk. If one of the holes does not have a layer gap between it, you can mount the screw, washer and nut directly. Put some clear silicone around it to keep it steady from vibration, etc.

NOTE: Other substances may be better. There's a gooey black substance that would be better, but I used what I had.

wingpic3.jpg


For the double layer holes, you need to use a conical drill bit and open the outer layer wide enough to accept the washer.

The provided base screws screw into the wing brackets. Do this for all 4 screws, slide the base over the open screw ends and insert the wing into the trunk holes. Put the washers, nuts and silicone on the underside and you're set.

wingpic1.jpg
 
I'm in the market for a bigger wing and I like the looks of this one. Did you have the LS wing before this one or just the stock lip? I'm curious if there would be a noticeable difference since I already have the LS wing. The main drawback I am concerned with on the S wing is the amount of additional infrastructure I need to add in the trunk area. I see they are just using four bolts with washers to hold this wing to the decklid. It leaves me with two questions.

First is that strong enough to keep it from ripping off at 150 mph, and second is there enough downforce being created to make a difference if the answer to my first question is yes. Since it looks like you ran it at VIR I assume you had enough high speed laps to test the strength of the fastners and deck lid. Were you able to discern a noticeable difference in downforce from your previous wing?
 
cloud9 said:
I'm in the market for a bigger wing and I like the looks of this one. Did you have the LS wing before this one or just the stock lip? I'm curious if there would be a noticeable difference since I already have the LS wing. The main drawback I am concerned with on the S wing is the amount of additional infrastructure I need to add in the trunk area. I see they are just using four bolts with washers to hold this wing to the decklid. It leaves me with two questions.

First is that strong enough to keep it from ripping off at 150 mph, and second is there enough downforce being created to make a difference if the answer to my first question is yes. Since it looks like you ran it at VIR I assume you had enough high speed laps to test the strength of the fastners and deck lid. Were you able to discern a noticeable difference in downforce from your previous wing?

Gary. Yes and yes. This wing is top notch. I just tested it and trail braking from 150 on back stretch at VIR is more stable. I went from brake marker 4 to 2.5. The data suggest a couple hundred pounds of downforce but it will be way less drag than the S wing. I just had the deck spouler before which is more about aerodynamic flow than downforce.
 
Having said all that this wing is a stepping stone to the S wing after i add speed.
You need WC or LS splitter, stiff lowering springs and stiff dampers on the front to balance this wing.

Ps. My other deck wing was a dud and flexed.
 
Thanks for posting about your install, Darren. APR has been at the top of my list. And APR isn't far from me. What width did you go with? Looks great.
 
It's 59.5" and sits 10" up.

http://aprperformance.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=36&Itemid=44

NOTE: There is an error in their conversion writeup. It should read 1 lb/force(lbf) = 4.44 N(ewtons)
Downforce analysis.
http://www.aprperformance.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=183

My estimate of 1500 N at 150mph generates 337.83 lbf with a wing angle of 15 degrees
 
Rick, you can move this thread to the howto if you like. Just a suggestion.
 
For my feeble mind - if you already have an LS wing does this thing utilize the same mount holes ?

-Pete
 
cloud9 said:
No and that's my dilemma. If I do anything I'll jump all the way to the 302S big wing.......

AS-105929 Ford Mustang S197 2005-Up Mounting bases cover factory spoiler/wing holes. $865

OK, but they are covered so you don't need body work, no ?


PS: I can't see how the big wing cost is justified..... How much of a real usable difference is there going to be vs. the APR wing?
 
PeteInCT said:
AS-105929 Ford Mustang S197 2005-Up Mounting bases cover factory spoiler/wing holes. $865

OK, but they are covered so you don't need body work, no ?


PS: I can't see how the big wing cost is justified..... How much of a real usable difference is there going to be vs. the APR wing?

It depends how fast you are going. The Apr wing I think only works well up to 168. Beyond that you need the stream Swing.
 
PeteInCT said:
AS-105929 Ford Mustang S197 2005-Up Mounting bases cover factory spoiler/wing holes. $865

OK, but they are covered so you don't need body work, no ?


PS: I can't see how the big wing cost is justified..... How much of a real usable difference is there going to be vs. the APR wing?

I think the holes will be new ones for all the '10+ cars. I think it would cover the factory holes on just the '05-'09 GTs.
 
Grant 302 said:
I think the holes will be new ones for all the '10+ cars. I think it would cover the factory holes on just the '05-'09 GTs.

That's correct. When we installed this on our '06 race car, it covered the holes, but the 10+ cars use a different bolt pattern for attaching the spoilers.
 
It's only a trunk. Just drill new holes for the wing. :'( I have a carbon fiber trunk I will mount the S wing on (with custom trunk cage) and swap trunks to change wings. Easy. Or pick up an OEM painted trunk to mount the other wing and keep your LS wing on a separate trunk.Victory! :)
 
Plugs=rust. Obviously I could get another trunk. And have it shot black. at the end of the day it's not as inexpensive an option as it originally seemed to be.
 

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