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B302LS Torsen

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gremlinsteve said:
can you guys running these differant gear lubes take a temp after your runs. might help some of us out. i am real curious what temp these 8.8 rears are getting up to

The cortex replaces the rear cover and all points are stock. No alum. drive shaft. With the cortex , safety equipment and the camber plates I am done with modifications except for a front tow hook to get the car in the trailer.
 
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jim woodruff said:
gremlinsteve said:
can you guys running these differant gear lubes take a temp after your runs. might help some of us out. i am real curious what temp these 8.8 rears are getting up to

The cortex replaces the rear cover and all points are stock. No alum. drive shaft. With the cortex , safety equipment and the camber plates I am done with modifications except for a front tow hook to get the car in the trailer.

stock ride height?
 
ArizonaGT said:
I've run the car hard on the stock tires, NT01s, and R6s so far over 15 hours of track time without issue, changing the fluid at the recommended intervals.

Car currently has 10k miles on it.
Me too. Conti takeoff slicks, Nitto 555RIIs, Toyo R888s, and Hoosier R6s. I have probably 50 hours of track time and 3k track miles (my spreadsheet with the details is at work). Total mileage is 10,500 and I have only used the OEM fluid and no friction modifier since the initial change.
 
gremlinsteve said:
can you guys running these differant gear lubes take a temp after your runs. might help some of us out. i am real curious what temp these 8.8 rears are getting up to
I can try to remember next weekend. You just want me to shoot it with my IR gun? Where do you want the temp from, the cover or the housing?
 
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lbp said:
cloud9 said:
lbp said:
cloud9 said:
First I have heard of that. I am using OEM fluids and changed after 4a track hours then every 124 hours after that. So far so good.

Gary, ..on the Conti slicks??
Yes but I am not convinced they have as much grip as an R6 and lots of guys are running those.

Here is an email I sent to Torsen Tech. Supp. earlier today.
- Does any have info on the T2-R unit with 4.0 bias (item #2 below in my email to Torsen TS)??


Hello,
I am contacting you for information about 2 Torsen T2-R units:

1. Ford P/N: M-4204-MB (as used on the Ford Boss 302 Laguna Seca) – 2.7 bias
2. Ford P/N: M-4204-T31H (as used on the Ford Mustang FR500S) – 4.0 bias

- I have a 2012 Ford Boss 302 Laguna Seca which I compete in (NASA TTS time trial) with 305x645x18 Hoosier R100 race slicks.

Here are my questions:
A. Which of the 2 Torsen units listed above will be the most robust for my application?
o Any explanation that you can provide will be greatly appreciated.
B. Can RedLine Lightweight Shockproof oil be used in these units?
See: <<http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=43&pcid=8>>
o Or can you please make a lubrication recommendation for severe duty use?

Thank you very much in advance for your earliest possible response.
Sincerely,


....and here is Torsen's reply today:

The M-4204-MB is the current Mustang production Torsen and was designed a bit more robust to handle the input torques from the Boss 302. The M-4204-T31H is our aftermarket 8.8” high bias variant for the Mustang axle and that design is several years older than the current Mustang design. The M-4204-MB would be the better choice for your vehicle.

We are not lubrication specialists however many folks have written to us stating that either the Royal Purple or Redline oils are the oils of choice with several folks using the Redline Shockproof. We have not heard of anything negative with using either brand so you should be okay with your choice.

Thanks for the question and interest in Torsen!


- I've asked again, more specifically, about slicks (again) & will post back any replies, -

Thanks very much for your response.
- Can you provide some insight into the use of full on race slicks (about 11” wide) with the M-4204-MB in terms of damage, fatigue or excessive wear to the unit?
Also, are these units repairable/rebuildable?

Thanks for this information above and in advance for any further replies.

Sincerely,
 
I know a lot of guys with Torsens (personally I have always had either clutch LSDs or old school lockers in the past) and I asked around a bit about how they hold up to track use. Clutch diffs will eventually wear but it seems Torsens seem to either work or be broken.

What problems are you having with yours?

Personally I liked the clutch type better for one simple reason: I have been stranded a couple times turning into really steep driveways. Kind of embarrassing having to reverse all the way out to take a running start if I try to take it too slow the first time to avoid scraping. It also seems to have some issues at max lock making parking lot turns, I get some chatter from the wheels like my truck does in 4WD but I think that depends on the surface since it only does it sometimes.
 
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PeteInCT said:
Good news so far ! ;D

..And latest reply from Torsen:

The Torsen needs a tire to slip in order to function properly. Slicks prolong that needed tire slip from occurring and when the tire slip does occur there is so much built up energy sent through the differential that enough of those energy impacts, or torque spikes, will eventually cause the differential to prematurely fail. The newer Mustang differential was designed stronger than its predecessor and will handle more torque through the unit however the unit is still limited by how much of a torque spike it can handle at a given time.

The Type “B” or T-2 units, based on parallel axis gear design and housing wall thickness, do not make good candidates for being rebuilt or repaired whereas our Type “A” or T-1 units can be rebuilt because of their crossed axis gear design and housing robustness.
 
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CaliMR said:
I know a lot of guys with Torsens (personally I have always had either clutch LSDs or old school lockers in the past) and I asked around a bit about how they hold up to track use. Clutch diffs will eventually wear but it seems Torsens seem to either work or be broken.

What problems are you having with yours?

Personally I liked the clutch type better for one simple reason: I have been stranded a couple times turning into really steep driveways. Kind of embarrassing having to reverse all the way out to take a running start if I try to take it too slow the first time to avoid scraping. It also seems to have some issues at max lock making parking lot turns, I get some chatter from the wheels like my truck does in 4WD but I think that depends on the surface since it only does it sometimes.

.. huge amount of play & excessive noise.
The new unit will get a cooler & heavier oil than the RL Lightweight Shockproof; might try Royal Purple 75-140.
 
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GA
I read a tip once about Torsens that if you get in a spot where a wheel is off the ground that you can get it working by lightly pressing the brake; this will give enough resistance to get the wheels working against each other.
 
Yeah I use that trick in my truck since it has open diffs. But I didn't know that was how Torsens worked when I got this car so I forgot. Now I mostly just avoid the driveways.
 

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