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Good to know. Which crank position sensor are you using?“I thought a new crank wheel came with the short block.”
Nope. I got an oil filter, oil pickup tube holder,and a pilot bearing in the goody bag. No crankwheel. MMR billet wheel is only a few more pesos than the stamped FM one. I will probably try it.
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Normal operating temps....but before I had hood and fender vents. Now w/the vents it's difficult to get coolant temps over 200-210Looks like that crossover tube gets hot. Was that under normal operating temp? Or did it overheat?
I did the oil balance lines and the MMR cooling mod on my car when I swapped the clutch. It was nice, I had full view, but it was still a pain. I can't imagine trying to do this job over the top only by removing the intake. For me it was crucial to have the transmission out as I was over and under the car to get the freeze plugs, and oil plugs out, and the new fittings and lines it.
Does the cooling balance line work... well only one way to know and that is drill, tap, and install temp sensors in the back of both cylinder heads and the block. Run the car and datalog the temps. Install the cooling mod and then run the car again on a similar track and ambient temp to datalog temps again.
I know a respected engine builder posted a video saying this makes no difference, he also improperly stated the cooling paths in the engine saying the coolant is forced to go around the bottom of the cylinders, around cylinder 8 and then back across the top of the cylinders to while flowing up through the head gasket, which is completely incorrect. Personally, from my experience, there is zero downside to the cooling balance line across the back of the head and only up side.
Here is a pic from my car.
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According to Shaun at AED this hose does nothing.So just spitballing here, and I haven't done a deep dive on coolant routing, but the hose at the rear seems to just balance the coolant pressures at the rear of each head - not sure how much flow there actually is. Since it's the #8 cylinder that seems to be an issue (at least on Gen 1), I'm wondering if this could be modified to promote more coolant flow at the back of the head. You could cut the balance hose in half and insert a tee fitting, then run a hose from the tee to somewhere with suction from the water pump (maybe the outlet fitting on the block?). May need to use a smaller hose to not have too much flow in this new direction. Not sure what that may be "stealing" coolant from.
Has anyone considered something like this?
So this must be an update with modern heads....my oval track days ended in the early 90's so front/back of the heads were the way it was done back then but regardless, same idea, same result.Sprint Car guys run a big ol cooling line up in between the siamese exhaust ports on they SBC platform and it prevents over heating and kicking/cooking the head gasket out.
Yeah, I looked that up too. Times they are a changin'......lol.
The Gen3 only has this hole on the pass side gasket.I'd be more inclined to add a small and same size cooling port as the Gen 3 gasket has at the 2 o'clock position on cylinder 8 (and 10 o'clock position on cylinder 4), and slightly increase (as in percentage) the cooling port size right where the faint carbon tracking is which is also in line with the torched part of the piston.