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Basics on brake bleeding.

I did a pre job eval. before changing my brake fluid to dot4 and I it seems like I need to remove the wheels first. Am I wrong? I read there are 2 bleed valves for the brembo's. I thought the one in front was it. I'm assuming now front and back of the calipers? I'm a newb to anything on performance cars because this is my first DIY for a RCWLCP.
 
racered302 said:
I did a pre job eval. before changing my brake fluid to dot4 and I it seems like I need to remove the wheels first. Am I wrong? I read there are 2 bleed valves for the brembo's. I thought the one in front was it. I'm assuming now front and back of the calipers? I'm a newb to anything on performance cars because this is my first DIY for a RCWLCP.

Yep, there are two bleeder valves on each Brembo, and yes, you'll want to take each wheel off. While you can reach the bleeder valves through the spokes, any leaked brake fluid will ruin the painted finish on the wheels. Start with the the caliper farthest away from the master cylinder, then work your way up from there.

If you don't have one already, highly recommend buying a Motive Products Power Bleeder, available from numerous vendors. Bought mine from Summit Racing... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mvp-0108?seid=google&gclid=COaG1bqU3bUCFQSnnQodOC8AkA. Makes the job a quick, clean, solo affair. Be sure and also buy the "GM" adapter kit, which fits the stock Boss master cyl. And when you de-pressurize the power bleeder to add more fluid (using the "dry" push through method), make sure you release pressure by loosening the cap/handle on the power bleeder tank, and NOT at the master cylinder adapter.
 
Thanks for the quick responds. I did get the Motive power bleeder (p# 0118). I'm glad I surf the forums, otherwise I would have ended up doing a halfass job. I read a post about speed bleeders and 2 were needed for each brembo and that raised a flag. I guess I'll wait until my brakes and cooling ducts get here before I start.
 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
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racered302 said:
Thanks for the quick responds. I did get the Motive power bleeder (p# 0118). I'm glad I surf the forums, otherwise I would have ended up doing a halfass job. I read a post about speed bleeders and 2 were needed for each brembo and that raised a flag. I guess I'll wait until my brakes and cooling ducts get here before I start.

One other item to consider is a catch bottle for bleeding the brakes. I bought mine from motive. The bottle has a wire to hang it near the caliper and snaps over the end of the bleeder. The hose is semi opaque so you can see air bubbles as you bleed. Catches 99% of the brake fluid.
 
I do have a bottle that I was going to hang off of there. I want to keep as much brake fluid contained as possible. It would break my heart if I burned my paint off.
 
TMSBOSS said:
One other item to consider is a catch bottle for bleeding the brakes. I bought mine from motive. The bottle has a wire to hang it near the caliper and snaps over the end of the bleeder. The hose is semi opaque so you can see air bubbles as you bleed. Catches 99% of the brake fluid.
I have a set of these and am about to use them for the first time. They don't catch 100% of the brake fluid???
 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
6,284
3,313
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Illinois
NFSBOSS said:
I have a set of these and am about to use them for the first time. They don't catch 100% of the brake fluid???

Rick

There will be a drop or two in the hose when you take it off. Wipe it up with a rag and you have 100% containment.

The bottles work sweet.
 

zzyzx

Steve
299
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I used to use a "pressurized MC" style bleeder from Motive, but have moved on to a vacuum style unit. Using a vacuum style unit means you don't have to remove the MC adapter each time you need to fill with fluid, and since you're sucking the fluid out at the caliper there's also no mess - it goes right into the unit.

One trick you need to do is put teflon tape on the bleeders because otherwise as you loosen them it'll suck air by the threads. Pretty simple thing to do.

The OC unit I'm using now uses compressed air, but I had one before that you pumped with a hand pump and created vacuum. Another advantage is that you can use it to evacuate all the fluid out of the reservoir first; mine for instance had a lot of black crap at the bottom. So instead of pushing that crap through the system, you can get it out before you start.

And, since this is a general vacuum, you can use it for any other task where a fluid vacuum comes in handy.

Not cheap but worth it IMO - this is a very sturdy and well made product:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/otc-8101
 
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racered302 said:
I do have a bottle that I was going to hang off of there. I want to keep as much brake fluid contained as possible. It would break my heart if I burned my paint off.

I keep a bottle of 409 cleaner handy, only because I use that to clean all sorts of stuff. If you spill any fluid at all just immediately spray the heck out of it with the cleaner or even water. Brake fluid dissolves in water and also in the 409 and will be off your paint in any concentrated amount in seconds, preventing any damage.
 
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4
can someone give the motive kit number that fits our cars? the link isnt working for me...there are a few that cover GM models (on summit anyway).

Thanks!
 
dabossinne said:
Yep, there are two bleeder valves on each Brembo, and yes, you'll want to take each wheel off. While you can reach the bleeder valves through the spokes, any leaked brake fluid will ruin the painted finish on the wheels. Start with the the caliper farthest away from the master cylinder, then work your way up from there.

Good advise, taking the wheels off is a must for room to work. As stated start with RR then LR, RF and LF front. Bleed both of the fittings on each front caliper, I do a little with the inside and finish with the outside. Confirmed this to be a good procedure with people that work on the race cars.

For people that don't use a bleeder tool like myself I always have the person working the pedal pump it up good on the final bleed. Then I only open the bleeder screw only a quarter turn so the pedal moves slowly down, I have them tell me when it is at the halfway point, then I close it. I can't prove this really makes a difference but it has worked well and always leaves a good firm pedal.
 
Did mine with a friend for the first time a couple weeks ago and he had a reverse bleeder that pumped fluid up through the caliper to the reservoir. Then suck out the fluid and go to the next wheel.

He also had magnets on his catch can hanger and just popped them on the rotor. Pretty Slick.
 
I appreciate the helpful hints, I'll have a chance to try out my new floor jack next weekend, temps are supposed to be lower 50's.
 
stunya said:
can someone give the motive kit number that fits our cars? the link isnt working for me...there are a few that cover GM models (on summit anyway).

Thanks!

Here's the link to the one I have - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mvp-0118
This does fit our cars.
 
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racered302 said:
Here's the link to the one I have - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mvp-0118
This does fit our cars.

Thanks, really appreciate it. I am going to get one on order.
 
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Get the little catch bottle too. It's very nice to have. I use ATE Super Blue and Type 200 Amber (both are the same, but different color) and this catch bottle makes it simple to see if you've flushed out all the fluid, and keeps you from making a mess.

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