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Batttery relocation

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97
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HPDE
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10-20 Years
Texas
http://www.steeda.com/store/mustang-battery-relocation-kit/

Has anyone done this? I am really interested in relocating my battery to the trunk. If someone knows of a better kit out there please post. Thanks
 
Somewhere on here I seen a pic with the battery installed in the trunk, I think it was yellowboss's car. You can check his threads to make sure then pm him.
 

pufferfish

Supporting Vendor
1,094
66
Maryland
that kit is as good as any other...cheap...universal...inadequate. If you simply want to move the battery somewhere else, it is fine. If you want to relocate the battery and be legal to run at the strip or at a track, you need to add a cutoff switch. If you run a cutoff switch, you will burn up the ECU if the switch is turned off while the engine is running. so, you need a double pole cutoff with an alternator cutoff solenoid.

I searched everywhere for a proper kit. guess what? I ended up making my own. I was also not impressed with the "universal" boxes out there. I custom made one that sits in the spare tire well and sits flush with the trunk floor, so I have full use of my trunk. I also made one bracket to place the cutoff switch and one for the solenoid and terminals to attach the factory battery cables to.

of course, I don't just build stuff for me to enjoy ;D expect my kit to be available soon. my electrical supplier is dragging their heels, so they won't be ready for Carlisle as I had planned, but they will be ready before the end of June.
 
pufferfish said:
that kit is as good as any other...cheap...universal...inadequate. If you simply want to move the battery somewhere else, it is fine. If you want to relocate the battery and be legal to run at the strip or at a track, you need to add a cutoff switch. If you run a cutoff switch, you will burn up the ECU if the switch is turned off while the engine is running. so, you need a double pole cutoff with an alternator cutoff solenoid.

I searched everywhere for a proper kit. guess what? I ended up making my own. I was also not impressed with the "universal" boxes out there. I custom made one that sits in the spare tire well and sits flush with the trunk floor, so I have full use of my trunk. I also made one bracket to place the cutoff switch and one for the solenoid and terminals to attach the factory battery cables to.

of course, I don't just build stuff for me to enjoy ;D expect my kit to be available soon. my electrical supplier is dragging their heels, so they won't be ready for Carlisle as I had planned, but they will be ready before the end of June.

Whats the expected price range for the kit?
 
pufferfish said:
of course, I don't just build stuff for me to enjoy ;D expect my kit to be available soon. my electrical supplier is dragging their heels, so they won't be ready for Carlisle as I had planned, but they will be ready before the end of June.

Interesting info on cutoff switch/ECU. Are you going to have a booth at Carlisle? If so, what parts are you planning on bringing to the show?
 

pufferfish

Supporting Vendor
1,094
66
Maryland
yeah, the issue is that even though there is a voltage regulator built into the alternator, it does still have a fairly generous swing of voltage spikes coming out of it. the battery absorbs those spikes. if the battery is disconnected, those spikes are freely transmitted through the system, which fries sensitive electronics. to add to that, if the alternator is left in the circuit on a running engine, the alternator will continue to create current, which will keep the engine running.

there are really 2 ways to run an alternator disconnect. 1) run a second cable (4 gauge is correct for that long of a run) from the alternator output to the battery. 2) a double pole cutoff that switches a high amperage solenoid to disconnect the alternator from the system. cost wise, the extra cable costs less than the solenoid and a more expensive double pole switch, but there isn't enough room to run 2 cables through the firewall without modification.

I am projecting a price around the $550 range for the complete kit. I am trying my hardest to bring costs down. its all in the electrical stuff, which is still in negotiations.

I will have a "booth" set up at Carlisle. I am too low buck to be in the manufacturer's tent, so I will be assigned a spot somewhere in the regular swap meet grounds. I haven't gotten my spot location yet, but will make an announcement of it. I will currently have tow hook kits, brake cooling kits, sound tube delete kits, extinguisher mounts, and carbotech brake pads. I am hoping I will have the first run of Team Dynamics wheels available there as well, but boats from England are slow and unpredictable. Depending on how much time I have between now and then (newborns are time-suckers), I am hoping to debut my new hitch receiver/rear tow hook kit....not your average hitch receiver, I promise!
 
Are you running the 4g wire through the factory grommet in the passenger fenderwell? Always figured there must be some good reason Ford made the grommet that way:)

Definitely post your spot/info for Carlisle as I'd like to stop by & pick up some stuff on Friday. Don't want to hijack this thread, perhaps there is already a post for the show.
 

pufferfish

Supporting Vendor
1,094
66
Maryland
no, the battery cable needs to be a 1 gauge to carry the amperage over that distance. the alternator cable could be a 4, but again, it would have to tag along with the 1 all the way. the factory grommet does take the 1 after you cut the nub off....1/0 gauge is VERY tight, but is doable with some grease.

when I was that nub in the grommet, I knew it was fate! now, I still need to make sure there isn't a model that uses that already for some factory wiring. That would be some suck for somebody if it is used.

I should be receiving my spot info soon. who knows, it might be in the mailbox now. I have to go to a communal mailbox to get my mail, so I don't check all that often.
 
To smooth out the voltage spikes all you need a filter capacitor between hot and ground. It will do the job the battery did when it was in the circuit.
 

pufferfish

Supporting Vendor
1,094
66
Maryland
The capacitor will prevent spikes but also stores energy to keep the car running when the cutoff switch is turned off.
 
pufferfish said:
The capacitor will prevent spikes but also stores energy to keep the car running when the cutoff switch is turned off.
Puff you are correct.The last car I did this too,i burnt a hole right thru the ecu board. Do it right if you are going to do it. If the car is under warranty for get it.
 

steveespo

Lord knows I'm a Voodoo Child
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Cookeville TN
Can you wire a 2 pole cut off to the battery and to the ignition switch circuit? This will separate the battery and kill the engine so the alternator doesn't keep it running and spike the computer. Lot lighter gauge wiring to run. If its wrong or wouldn't meet sanctioning body codes let us know.
Steve
 

pufferfish

Supporting Vendor
1,094
66
Maryland
I think that idea may be a bit "interpretive" of the rule book. NASA CCR says (I'm paraphrasing from memory), that the cutoff switch must disconnect all power to the vehicle. Also, as I think about it, the ignition doesn't disconnect all power to the ECU. So, the alternator could still fry the ECU.

Well, at least this reaffirms the right way to do it is with a solenoid to disconnect the alternator from the circuit.
 
Flyboygsxr said:
http://www.steeda.com/store/mustang-battery-relocation-kit/

Has anyone done this? I am really interested in relocating my battery to the trunk. If someone knows of a better kit out there please post. Thanks

Both WC cars I worked on this past weekend used that box, althought the batteries had been relocated to the back seat area, rather than the trunk.
 

steveespo

Lord knows I'm a Voodoo Child
Moderator
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Cookeville TN
That is the box I use in my trunk. Very secure, has grommets and vent provision. If someone can do an accurate wiring schematic for the kill switch showing what wire on the alternator has to be interrupted I would be interested. Thinking about a switch location in the passenger cowl area.
Steve
 
pufferfish said:
no, the battery cable needs to be a 1 gauge to carry the amperage over that distance. the alternator cable could be a 4, but again, it would have to tag along with the 1 all the way. the factory grommet does take the 1 after you cut the nub off....1/0 gauge is VERY tight, but is doable with some grease.

when I was that nub in the grommet, I knew it was fate! now, I still need to make sure there isn't a model that uses that already for some factory wiring. That would be some suck for somebody if it is used.

I should be receiving my spot info soon. who knows, it might be in the mailbox now. I have to go to a communal mailbox to get my mail, so I don't check all that often.

Did you figure out your spot at Carlisle yet? Would like to come by and chat about this stuff a bit more and pick up the fire extinguisher mount.
 

pufferfish

Supporting Vendor
1,094
66
Maryland
I will have the prototype cabling just in time to show at carlisle. Production boxes and bracket are ready. Production cabling will be ready about a week later. My car will be on display to see all of my products.

I am not quite certain of my spot yet, but I am told the info will get to me before the weekend and I will be adjacent to the manufacturers midway. I will post up when I know for sure.

Expect lots of inventory and good deals!
 

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