Blown engine on my 2015 GT... Need advice on next steps

[Filter]

Hi all,

Short Version:

My engine is toast. I need to replace it. I currently feel my best option is to find a new crate Gen 2 Coyote engine and drop it in. What do you recommend?

Long Version:

I just returned from a HPDE track day this weekend. On my second session my car lost 90% of its power and wouldn't rev past 5500rpm on my last lap. I looked and saw that my oil temps hit the red mark on the factory oil temp gauge. It felt like a limp mode so I backed off and cooled down for 1.5 laps and then exited. I checked my oil and it was a quart low. Also, I just replaced my coolant reservoir and saw that the brand new fluid had gotten pretty dark at the bottom. I figured the majority of my coolant was old and dirty and i just saw it starting to mix. It may have been oil. I also figured the low oil was from the 6 months since I changed my oil and I may have a slow leak to track down. I topped it off and continued. I should have stopped here and asked more why this was starting to happen.

On my third session mid-way through lap 4 my power started to cut out again for a brief moment. I backed off for a turn and saw my oil temps were high again. I applied maybe 30% throttle on the next corner and it was still limp but a moment later it made a bang followed by metal on metal clanging and a huge plume of white smoke out of the exhaust that filled my entire rear view.

After being towed to my pit I opened the hood and saw my coolant reservoir was empty. I checked the dip stick and it was way too full of thin watery oil. I discussed it with a friend who's a long time mechanic and he told me the engine's toast. No point protecting it now and I might as well see if it will turn over and run enough to get it on a trailer. It turned over twice and permanently came to a stop.

So....

I'd like to know what any of you have done in a similar situation. Some notes:

• I'm not looking for more power. I like the amount it has now and favor reliability for track days.
• It has the Ford Performance Power Pack 3 installed so the ECU is flashed for the GT350 intake manifold and other parts.
• My car has 85k miles on it and is in really good shape
• Most of my modifications are suspension and track oriented.

I'm leaning towards saving up and buying a new crate engine. But I have questions I'm hoping someone can help me with:

1. My searches for a replacement 5.0 have found mostly Gen 4 and Gen 3 coyotes. Is it possible to swap one of these in and have it work properly with my older analog gauges, hoses, wires, ECU, etc?
2. My search for a Gen 2 Coyote so far online haven't been that promising. Does anyone know how to find a new Gen 2 engine to buy?
3. What have you done in this situation that I haven't thought of yet?
4. I may be interested in doing the replacement myself. I've done most of my work on this car and past car. What potential pit-falls might I encounter? Would you recomend doing it or recommend a shop in Southern California?
5. If I drop a Gen 2 stock engine in, will I need to do anything to the ECU since it's been mapped for the Ford Power Pack? I plan to transfer the power pack parts over to the new engine if I find a Gen 2 to buy.

Thank you!

Video for the hell of it:

I lose power at 29 sec and you barely can hear the sad engine noises at 34 sec.

 

[JP X]

Hi all,

Short Version:

My engine is toast. I need to replace it. I currently feel my best option is to find a new crate Gen 2 Coyote engine and drop it in. What do you recommend?

Long Version:

I just returned from a HPDE track day this weekend. On my second session my car lost 90% of its power and wouldn't rev past 5500rpm on my last lap. I looked and saw that my oil temps hit the red mark on the factory oil temp gauge. It felt like a limp mode so I backed off and cooled down for 1.5 laps. I checked my oil and it was a quart low. Also, I just replaced my coolant reservoir and saw that the brand new green fluid had gotten pretty dark at the bottom. I figured the majority of my coolant was old and dirty and i just saw it starting to mix. It may have been oil. I also figured the low oil was from the 6 months since I changed my oil and I may have a slow leak to track down. I typically check my oil before I start the HPDE day but I was running late and forgot. I topped it off and continued. I should have stopped here and asked more why this was starting to happen.

On my third session mid-way through lap 4 my power started to cut out again for a brief moment. I backed off for a turn and saw my oil temps were high again. I applied maybe 30% throttle on the next corner and it was still limp but a moment later it made a bang followed by metal on metal clanging and a huge plume of white smoke out of the exhaust that filled my entire rear view.

After being towed to my pit I opened the hood and saw my coolant reservoir was empty. I checked the dip stick and it was way too full of thin watery oil. I discussed it with a friend whos a long time mechanic and he told me the engine's toast. No point protecting it now and I might as well see if it will turn over and run enough to get it on a trailer. It turned over twice and permanently came to a stop.

So....

I'd like to know what any of you have done in a similar situation. Some notes:

• I'm not looking for more power. I like the amount it has now and favor reliability for track days.
• It has the Ford Performance Power Pack 3 installed so the ECU is flashed for the GT350 intake manifold and other parts.
• My car has 85k miles on it and is in really good shape
• Most of my modifications are suspension and track oriented.

I'm leaning towards saving up and buying a new crate engine. But I have questions I'm hoping someone can help me with:

1. My searches for a replacement 5.0 have found mostly Gen 4 and Gen 3 coyotes. Is it possible to swap one of these in and have it work properly with my older analog gauges, hoses, wires, ECU, etc?
2. My search for a Gen 2 Coyote so far online haven't been that promising. Does anyone know how to find a new Gen 2 engine to buy?
3. What have you done in this situation that I haven't thought of yet?
4. I may be interested in doing the replacement myself. I've done most of my work on this car and past car. What potential pit-falls might I encounter? Would you recomend doing it or recommend a shop in Southern California?
5. If I drop a Gen 2 stock engine in, will I need to do anything to the ECU since it's been mapped for the Ford Power Pack? I plan to transfer the power pack parts over to the new engine if I find a Gen 2 to buy.

Thank you!

Video for the hell of it:

I lose power at 29 sec and you barely can hear the sad engine noises at 34 sec.

I think I got the last NOS Gen 2 Coyote after mine blew. Sorry y’all.

I’m not sure that I had the best experience and am not an expert but I’ll share my experience. Ford dealer wanted nothing to do with it so I went to a local performance shop. Had the choice of reconditioning the intake manifold (at the time, Gen2 IMs were nowhere to be found) or go with a Gen3 IM and maybe get a couple more HP. I went with the Gen3 IM.

The downside was figuring out the IMRC lockout and a matching tune. Took the shop forever to get it right without misfires. In hindsight I wish I’d rebuilt the old IM and put my Power Pack 2 tune back on. Or, go with all Gen3 and replaced all the controls with it.

A question I still have with tunes…looks to me that my tune only works in Normal and Sport mode. In Track mode I get P0300, P0308, and P0345.

 

[biggsy]

Pull the engine. Check or send off heads for repair. Buy Gen 3 Shortblock PN: JR3Z-6009-A. Transfer over rear engine cover and oil filter mount. Upgrade where you see fit like GT500 oil pan since the Gen 3 is plastic. Shouldn’t need a different tune since reusing same heads and IM.

I am in a similar situation. Low compression in cylinder 8. Last thing to buy is the short block.

 

[JeffV8]

Like biggsy said gen3 short block with gen 2 heads. I had to do that after I destroyed my 13000 mile eng at the track.

 

[Paul McWhiskey]

Wow! I would never have believed that anyone could get a frag grenade to fit down the oil filler.

That is some devastating destruction. Did it also ventilate the block?

 

[Filter]

Thanks for all the suggestions so far.

Wow @ JeffV8 I wonder if my engine will be anything like what you posted. It didn't penetrate the block.

Also, I've got some updates...

First, I found a Gen 2 remanufactured engine here from a place in Florida for $11.5k.

Then I called Ford Performance tech line and he recommended buying a new short block from them (M-6009-A50NAB) and then refurbishing my heads and swapping them onto this block, much like what JP X suggested. But I'd need to run a remote oil filter, and slightly notch the combustion chamber as well as some other mods. It also would change the compression ratio from 11:1 to 12:1. This option didn't seem like it would be smooth to me and I worry to reuse my old heads.

Finally, I decided to call my local Ford dealership and was really surprised by what my coordinator had to offer. They can purchase a remanufactured service engine from Ford (FR3Z6006J) for $7k and install it for $5-6k. They also would transfer my power pack and GT500 aluminum valve covers over to it since the service engine is just a long block and needs those parts anyway. Also, it will come with a new 3 year unlimited mile warranty with the Power Pack since its a Ford Performance part.

I looked up the service engine part number and it looks to be available from several dealers for less than $6k. (Levitown FR3Z-6006-JCRM)

I think a factory remanufactured engine, installed by a Ford dealer, with a warranty for roughly $13 to $14k is the best option I've found so far.

 

[Filter]

Thanks for all the suggestions so far.

Wow @ JeffV8 I wonder if my engine will be anything like what you posted. It didn't penetrate the block.

Also, I've got some updates...

First, I found a Gen 2 remanufactured engine here from a place in Florida for $11.5k.

Then I called Ford Performance tech line and he recommended buying a new short block from them (M-6009-A50NAB) and then refurbishing my heads and swapping them onto this block, much like what JP X suggested. But I'd need to run a remote oil filter, and slightly notch the combustion chamber as well as some other mods. It also would change the compression ratio from 11:1 to 12:1. This option didn't seem like it would be smooth to me and I worry to reuse my old heads.

Finally, I decided to call my local Ford dealership and was really surprised by what my coordinator had to offer. They can purchase a remanufactured service engine from Ford (FR3Z6006J) for $7k and install it for $5-6k. They also would transfer my power pack and GT500 aluminum valve covers over to it since the service engine is just a long block and needs those parts anyway. Also, it will come with a new 3 year unlimited mile warranty with the Power Pack since its a Ford Performance part.

I looked up the service engine part number and it looks to be available from several dealers for less than $6k. (Levitown FR3Z-6006-JCRM)

I think a factory remanufactured engine, installed by a Ford dealer, with a warranty for roughly $13 to $14k is the best option I've found so far.

 

[biggsy]

Well if you are going the long block route, I would double check actual inventory. Gen 2 heads have been hard to come by. Gen 3 short block is honestly the way.

 

[TrackGT]

Welcome to the club my friend! 2015 GT. Previous owner rebuilt the engine and it has been pulling strong (minus the Cam Phasers) for 8K miles. Plan to do 10 HPDE days with it this summer.

Here's the build list:

Engine (rebuilt Jan 2020 by Holbrook racing after spun rod bearings on a road course)

- Diamond Pistons 11.5 to 1

- MANLEY Forged H-beam Rods

- Ported Heads

- CompCams NA Stage 2

- BEEHIVE VALVE SPRINGS

- CLEVITE bearings

- ARP bolts throughout the bottom end

- Moroso Aluminum Road Race Oil Pan (20572)

- JLT GT350 air intake

- GT350 Throttle Body (ported by AirFlowSolutions)

- GT350 Intake Manifold (ported by AirFlowSolutions)

- ATi balancer

- MMR Hurricane Oil Pump

- TSS Crankshaft Sprocket Gear

- MMR water pump pulley

- FRPP LU47 injectors

- Mishimoto Oil Cooler (but I use a filter relocation kit by MMR)

- nGauge tuner

- Lund tunes (93, E85)

 

[TrackGT]

I think I got the last NOS Gen 2 Coyote after mine blew. Sorry y’all.

I’m not sure that I had the best experience and am not an expert but I’ll share my experience. Ford dealer wanted nothing to do with it so I went to a local performance shop. Had the choice of reconditioning the intake manifold (at the time, Gen2 IMs were nowhere to be found) or go with a Gen3 IM and maybe get a couple more HP. I went with the Gen3 IM.

The downside was figuring out the IMRC lockout and a matching tune. Took the shop forever to get it right without misfires. In hindsight I wish I’d rebuilt the old IM and put my Power Pack 2 tune back on. Or, go with all Gen3 and replaced all the controls with it.

A question I still have with tunes…looks to me that my tune only works in Normal and Sport mode. In Track mode I get P0300, P0308, and P0345.

I went to war with P0344 and P0340 and it ended up being the cam phasers. P0345 is the exhaust side. I wouldn't be surprised if it was that.

 

[JeffV8]

Wow! I would never have believed that anyone could get a frag grenade to fit down the oil filler.

That is some devastating destruction. Did it also ventilate the block?

Thanks for all the suggestions so far.

Wow @ JeffV8 I wonder if my engine will be anything like what you posted. It didn't penetrate the block.

Also, I've got some updates...

First, I found a Gen 2 remanufactured engine here from a place in Florida for $11.5k.

Then I called Ford Performance tech line and he recommended buying a new short block from them (M-6009-A50NAB) and then refurbishing my heads and swapping them onto this block, much like what JP X suggested. But I'd need to run a remote oil filter, and slightly notch the combustion chamber as well as some other mods. It also would change the compression ratio from 11:1 to 12:1. This option didn't seem like it would be smooth to me and I worry to reuse my old heads.

Finally, I decided to call my local Ford dealership and was really surprised by what my coordinator had to offer. They can purchase a remanufactured service engine from Ford (FR3Z6006J) for $7k and install it for $5-6k. They also would transfer my power pack and GT500 aluminum valve covers over to it since the service engine is just a long block and needs those parts anyway. Also, it will come with a new 3 year unlimited mile warranty with the Power Pack since its a Ford Performance part.

I looked up the service engine part number and it looks to be available from several dealers for less than $6k. (Levitown FR3Z-6006-JCRM)

I think a factory remanufactured engine, installed by a Ford dealer, with a warranty for roughly $13 to $14k is the best option I've found so far.

just cracked it. Oil pan small hole.

 

[bnight]

I went to war with P0344 and P0340 and it ended up being the cam phasers. P0345 is the exhaust side. I wouldn't be surprised if it was that.

he said he dropped the clutch at last event the random missfire codes could be related to that. Likely the P0345 etc as well. I have P0345 last time out ass well but my car is leaking oil from valve cover gaskets both sides. Guessing this is what is causing it on my end.

 

[Filter]

So I've decided on a path. I'm going with the longblock from Ford.

I wan't to make the possibility of this happening again as low as I can within reason. So far I plan to buy and install:

• GT500 Aluminum Oil Pan And Pump Kit (M-6675-M52S)
• 5.0L 5.2L Gen 2 Water Pump Kit (M-8501-M52A)
• Custom Oil Cooler (Probably Setrab 960 since I keep seeing it recommended, I still need to research this more)

I wanted to know if anyone has any other recommendations for cooling needs to make the car more track ready.

Or any other reliability suggestions (especially anything easier to do when the engine is being removed)

 

[bnight]

So I've decided on a path. I'm going with the longblock from Ford.

I wan't to make the possibility of this happening again as low as I can within reason. So far I plan to buy and install:

• GT500 Aluminum Oil Pan And Pump Kit (M-6675-M52S)
• 5.0L 5.2L Gen 2 Water Pump Kit (M-8501-M52A)
• Custom Oil Cooler (Probably Setrab 960 since I keep seeing it recommended, I still need to research this more)

I wanted to know if anyone has any other recommendations for cooling needs to make the car more track ready.

Or any other reliability suggestions (especially anything easier to do when the engine is being removed)

GT500 Valve Covers ?

 

[Paul McWhiskey]

Race Louvers

 

[mt82#1fan]

What do you suspect caused the engine damage? Lack of oil cooling? I'm just getting into hpde / track racing so I'm curious. Good luck w/ the new motor!

 

[Dave_W]

Might as well do clutch and flywheel if they're still stock, or replace aftermarket clutch if it's anywhere close to needing it. Also, maybe swap in a high-rpm trigger wheel (Ford Perf. or MMR) and the M-7600-C "high load" pilot bearing.

Oh, good time to do long-tube headers as well.

Remembered another - air-oil separator(s). Ford Performance has some that may fit, or one of the several aftermarket brands. Passenger side is more important than the driver side.