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Blown Rear Axle Seal

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JScheier

Too Hot for the Boss!
cloud9 said:
I wonder if there's a way to get this to work with my Whiteline Watts link diff cover??

http://rehagenracingproducts.com/REHAGEN-RACING-S197-MUSTANG-DIFFERENTIAL-COOLER-STANDARD-KIT-RR05DCSTD.htm

WhitelineWattsLink_zps0ee4a8d2.jpg

Looks like it will work as the WL cover has fill / drain plugs in the same location as the photo in Rehagen's photo. Worst case scenario is you need a different fitting due to different thread sizes. You could always pull the rear differential and drill / tap the pumpkin for fittings as well. Harder, but will still work.
 
JScheier said:
Looks like it will work as the WL cover has fill / drain plugs in the same location as the photo in Rehagen's photo. Worst case scenario is you need a different fitting due to different thread sizes. You could always pull the rear differential and drill / tap the pumpkin for fittings as well. Harder, but will still work.
Thanks I'll have to think about doing this. Why is everything a thousand dollars?
 

JScheier

Too Hot for the Boss!
cloud9 said:
Why is everything a thousand dollars?

You could source and build everything yourself for less... so I'm guessing $1000 is the predetermined price-point at which individuals will purchase, with some guilt, vs. not purchase :)
 
06mach1 said:
Or make some sort of brake cooling ductwork.

Been contemplating using this and routing to the rear brakes when the time comes. Think it'll look a lot better painted....
S197_naca01_600.jpg
 

steveespo

Lord knows I'm a Voodoo Child
Moderator
4,015
1,959
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Cookeville TN
I spent $450 on my setup. Tilton Viton seal pump, Long Oil Cooler matrix bought on ebay from a NASCAR Nationwide team for $30, Aeroquip -8 hoses and fittings and some miscellaneous screws, clips, tie wraps and DEI heat protection hose wrap. I mounted the pump in the spare tire well, used bulkhead fittings to get the supply and return hoses to the pump, mounted the matrix under the passenger seat depression and used the GT500 diff cover with tappings to bring the fluid i and out. Also have a temp gauge mounted on the rear roll cage and a console switch to turn the pump on and off.
 

JScheier

Too Hot for the Boss!
steveespo said:
I spent $450 on my setup. Tilton Viton seal pump, Long Oil Cooler matrix bought on ebay from a NASCAR Nationwide team for $30, Aeroquip -8 hoses and fittings and some miscellaneous screws, clips, tie wraps and DEI heat protection hose wrap. I mounted the pump in the spare tire well, used bulkhead fittings to get the supply and return hoses to the pump, mounted the matrix under the passenger seat depression and used the GT500 diff cover with tappings to bring the fluid i and out. Also have a temp gauge mounted on the rear roll cage and a console switch to turn the pump on and off.

I'm thinking we need to live closer to each other... you do the projects that I need to do :)
 
steveespo said:
I spent $450 on my setup. Tilton Viton seal pump, Long Oil Cooler matrix bought on ebay from a NASCAR Nationwide team for $30, Aeroquip -8 hoses and fittings and some miscellaneous screws, clips, tie wraps and DEI heat protection hose wrap. I mounted the pump in the spare tire well, used bulkhead fittings to get the supply and return hoses to the pump, mounted the matrix under the passenger seat depression and used the GT500 diff cover with tappings to bring the fluid i and out. Also have a temp gauge mounted on the rear roll cage and a console switch to turn the pump on and off.
This would all be so easy if you lived in the middle of the country :p
 
Steve, and anyone else doing electrical installs, here are some terminals that are easy to use and not permanent unless you want them to be:
Wago 223-412 for the two conductor model and -413 for the 3 conductor.

They eliminate the need for tape, wrapping wires together, soldering, tape, crappy butt splices...blah blah blah. And the best part is you can use them for house wiring in junction boxes. Makes things really easy.
 

steveespo

Lord knows I'm a Voodoo Child
Moderator
4,015
1,959
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Cookeville TN
WinterSucks said:
Steve, and anyone else doing electrical installs, here are some terminals that are easy to use and not permanent unless you want them to be:
Wago 223-412 for the two conductor model and -413 for the 3 conductor.

They eliminate the need for tape, wrapping wires together, soldering, tape, crappy butt splices...blah blah blah. And the best part is you can use them for house wiring in junction boxes. Makes things really easy.

Thanks, I typically do solder/shrink wrap/tape on wire to wire connections, or I'll use crimp on connectors, but solder them then shrink wrap and tape if I want to separate them.
Steve
 

drano38

Wayne
1,130
318
I noticed a bit of gear oil on my passenger side tube when I changed the diff fluid last week. Wasn't much, and I wiped it clean with a rag.
I'll pay close attention during the Brainerd MN track event end of this month. Then hopefully get it repaired under warranty.
 
Picked up mine today from the dealer. Unable to really tell why it leaked though. The seal did not look damaged from heat and rubber was still flexible. And oil level was correct (9/16" below fill hole) and vent was working properly. If nothing else, I still have warranty for a couple more years!
 
06mach1 said:
Picked up mine today from the dealer. Unable to really tell why it leaked though. The seal did not look damaged from heat and rubber was still flexible. And oil level was correct (9/16" below fill hole) and vent was working properly. If nothing else, I still have warranty for a couple more years!
That sounds like mine too. Are you using the factory vent? Do you have an overflow canister?
 
cloud9 said:
That sounds like mine too. Are you using the factory vent? Do you have an overflow canister?

I use the factory metal vent inserted into the top of the turkey baster, which is installed in the top of the factory cover vent location. I don't have an overflow canister and to this date have never blown oil out the turkey baster/vent.
 

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