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steveespo said:In reference to the small rear bar, I changed to the 18mm bar but thus far have only run one wet weekend at Summit Point WVa. In the wet more compliance helped grip. I feel wet or dry the reduced roll stiffness will help the rear axle be more compliant and load the outside tire during cornering. With stock Boss or even bigger LS rear bar the rear seamed to not plant during cornering and exit, the soft bar made it easier for me to feel what the rear tires were doing and I could control wheelspin that I was getting coming off of Turn 10 onto the main straight. Under braking I found no adverse effects, in the wet braking from 127 to 40 mph, in the dry it would be 140 to 60 or so. No rear wiggle or additional dive.
I will be running a hopefully dry day at Lime Rock on Nov 16 and will try and get some feedback on tire temps and performance. I am hoping to see a temperature increase at the rear indicating the rear tires are working more with the soft setting, taking some of the load off the front.
Maybe I have it wrong but that's my initial impression.
Steve
PeteInCT said:The temps will be about 40 F as long as its dry. Its gonna be cold.
blacksheep-1 said:IMO it depends on what you call "lots" the idea here is to continually go down on the bar size, make shock adjustments and sort of "sneak up" on what you're trying to do. To go from one extreme to no bar would not be a good idea, but to go from a "micro" bar to none is really not that big of a step because you'll be following the change with shock/spring adjustments.
blacksheep-1 said:I wonder, and this is just a shot in the dark, if the front end is bottoming out and this is negating any chassis adjustments?
Although nitrogen has been used for years in the tires of military aircraft, F1 cars, and fleet trucks, its use in passenger car tires has been getting a lot of press lately. If you research the subject, you'll find that much of the information is intended for just that: passenger car tires. As such, many of the differences between nitrogen and air are not relevant to racers. However, there are several differences that are of great importance and should be considered with regard to racing.
blacksheep-1 said:I've seen that before when using lots of camber or when inflation is too low, it's where the tire tread is bonded to the tire carcass.
I'll get back to you guys on the rest..
steveespo said:I would like to start a serious BMO setup/tire management thread and ask that you all help us understand some of these nuances to improve performance. i know a lot is tire or chassis specific but I am not adverse to copying a race setup (or copying anything for that matter ;D) but also understand why it works. There is some good info out there but I would like to follow what the Continental GS class cars are doing because their type of road racing is closest to what I am doing during my track day events i.e. 30 minute Sprints as parts of a longer overall race day.
Plan on changing to a Eibach R2 coil over setup this winter to allow fine tuning of spring rates, ride heights and both compression and rebound damping. Want to get a feel for what rates the pros run on the tracks we all run on too, so Lime Rock, Watkins Glen, Road America, Laguna Seca, Mid Ohio, VIR, Barber, NJMP, Daytona are all on the list and info is out there, we just have to ask questions and milk our resources. This is a very mature forum which I am proud to be a part of so I think we will be taken seriously by the pros who we all talk to or do business with. They may not give out all the secrets but I bet we can get pointed in the right direction.
All input is welcome so the experienced Boss/Mustang shoes like Gary, Yellow Boss, JScheirer (hope I spelled it right) Pete, some guy named mwilson7, roketman, Arizona GT, MCM and all the others lets get it started.
Steve
What action should I take to revive it? Possibly add it to the Resources page I'm building to make it part of the "important threads" list?@Ludachris
Time to revive this?