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S197 Boss 302 in Chile Build Thread Profile - S197 Mustangs

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Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,518
8,154
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W2W Racing
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Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
Yup, thas excatly what I meant! The LM intake cam is nice as you keep the bottom end while adding a good 30hp up top. Are you going for a more aggresive cam on your gen 3??
I have the same cams as you and a gen 2 motor. Was interested in hearing what yours sounded like. Mine's still at AED.
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
5,237
4,227
Santiago, Chile
MH, You have more perseverance than I will ever know...Drive on my friend!!!!..................................

Thus the name... Mad Hatter.... totally and completely bonkers. Took the car around the block.... very noisy without the final muffler... set of all the alarms within 50m of the car. Spun the 275/35-19 street tires in 2nd gear from 1500 to 3000 rpm.... Fingers crossed.
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
5,237
4,227
Santiago, Chile
I have the same cams as you and a gen 2 motor. Was interested in hearing what yours sounded like. Mine's still at AED.

Shauns base tune was very smooth and car felt like it was always ment to have the cj setup.. But the twin 67mm TB makes the throttle very responsive. Going to get some hours on the motor before logging and sending to AED. Then off to the Dyno.
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,518
8,154
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
Shauns base tune was very smooth and car felt like it was always ment to have the cj setup.. But the twin 67mm TB makes the throttle very responsive. Going to get some hours on the motor before logging and sending to AED. Then off to the Dyno.
In for updates :p
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
A bit worried about the drop in oil pressure compared to before... I got 75psi at 3500 rpm and 40psi at idle with the engine warm. Have not taken it past 3500 yet.

Could it be the added oil jet squirters?
Yes, but the numbers you posted don’t worry me. What were your numbers before and what does your builder say?

Congrats on the progress and getting out of lockdown.

If you need more noise reduction, ‘J’ pipe resonators at or near the rear H might help.
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
5,237
4,227
Santiago, Chile
Yes, but the numbers you posted don’t worry me. What were your numbers before and what does your builder say?

Congrats on the progress and getting out of lockdown.

If you need more noise reduction, ‘J’ pipe resonators at or near the rear H might help.


Thanks Grant!

Cool, I had not seen those..

Something like this....? Imagine you tailor the J pipe outlet to get the right sound?
1600377502394.png

Oil pressure before was 50 psi at idle and and would go over 100psi at 4000 rpm. Builder thinks its all the ported oil passages and the addition of the squirters. Its his third Coyote, the first two were my previous builds with his Clan...... LOL...
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
Thanks Grant!

Cool, I had not seen those..

Something like this....? Imagine you tailor the J pipe outlet to get the right sound?
View attachment 58275
Yes, like that! The ends are closed and tuning is done by length of the J pipe and it’s location. They work by dividing the pulse and reflecting it back into the main stream between pulses. The J itself can be made a bit tunable using a sliding connection to adjust its length.

Oil pressure before was 50 psi at idle and and would go over 100psi at 4000 rpm. Builder thinks its all the ported oil passages and the addition of the squirters. Its his third Coyote, the first two were my previous builds with his Clan...... LOL...

Sounds like more than enough pressure. Just gotta make sure the oil stays cool enough. Particularly the longer stints like if you do the enduro again.

Remember that the squirters protect the engine by keeping the pistons cooled. And that heat load also needs to be removed from the oil for it to do its main job of lubrication. Remind me...what your oil cooling setup is?

And if I remember correctly, you have a visible warning light for oil pressure, right? Might want one for oil temp too. You know, because you didn’t spend enough money already.
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
5,237
4,227
Santiago, Chile
Yes Grant, you made me get a idiot light for the oil pressure;). We took out the Boss water cooler and put in a Setrab 915 and 925 oil cooler. the rads a Mishmoto, which might need upgrading in the future. One problem was the long plywood splitter the went far back and covered the headers. temps were to high. We will cut some tunnels for more down force and better cooling as well.

One problem might be that the rad is covered by the two setrabs and a small oil cooler for the tranny setup.. but with the Calmer stage 3, the temps are much lower, so might find another place for that oil cooler.
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
5,237
4,227
Santiago, Chile
Changing the subject a bit... Is there any negatives for removing the whole EVAP canistar setup?? Seems like you could lose a little weight and some unseemly hoses from underneath. Its mounted in the trunk at the moment,
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,518
8,154
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
Changing the subject a bit... Is there any negatives for removing the whole EVAP canistar setup?? Seems like you could lose a little weight and some unseemly hoses from underneath. Its mounted in the trunk at the moment,
Mine came off early on in this build. No negative affects as far as I could tell.
@Albino500 will be able to add more context to the story since he spearheaded that particular change.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
Yes Grant, you made me get a idiot light for the oil pressure;). We took out the Boss water cooler and put in a Setrab 915 and 925 oil cooler. the rads a Mishmoto, which might need upgrading in the future. One problem was the long plywood splitter the went far back and covered the headers. temps were to high. We will cut some tunnels for more down force and better cooling as well.

One problem might be that the rad is covered by the two setrabs and a small oil cooler for the tranny setup.. but with the Calmer stage 3, the temps are much lower, so might find another place for that oil cooler.
Doesn’t sound like enough oil cooling capacity. I mean for your expected HP levels, shorter relatively low speed technical tracks, enduro use...possibly running on hot days.

Where are the two coolers located?

And I wouldn’t block anything past the oil pan or so until you are certain you don’t have any cooling issues.

Changing the subject a bit... Is there any negatives for removing the whole EVAP canistar setup?? Seems like you could lose a little weight and some unseemly hoses from underneath. Its mounted in the trunk at the moment,
I’ve heard of issues with the removal. Can’t recall the specifics like if there are code issues or warning lights. I’d ask Shaun about any issues that can be eliminated on the tune side first.
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
5,237
4,227
Santiago, Chile
Ceramic coating the headers may help decrease the radiated heat from them.

Could not find anyone here who does that with any kind of confidence. Also the headers had custom collectors put in so they where at the shop for ever....and a day. Have my heart set on having it ready this month... hard to believe that the engine blew up 10 months ago!! Just as well it was in 2019.... 2020 is bad enough as it is!!
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
View attachment 58293

This is the setup. The Setrab 925 above the bumper in front of the rad and the 915 below the bumper etc.

That looks good...except for the FRAM filter!

If I’m seeing it correctly, the 925 is fed first?

IF there are any oil cooling issues that show up I’d box the 915 first with a larger inlet than the 915 core.

I’d also protect it with nomex honeycomb regardless.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
forgot to say the flow goes from motor, to the 925, then the 915, then the filter.

I’d say that’s the right way. To have the second one on the bottom.

Swapping/Putting the 925 on the bottom (and second) could be an option if boxed appropriately.
 

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