Boss 302S Race Wheels and Tires

[ArizonaBOSS]

LOL nice pic ;D

"Enhance! Enhance! Enhance!"

 

[Jimmy Pribble]

LOL nice pic ;D

"Enhance! Enhance! Enhance!"

Haha! That's exactly the crack I was going to make. ;D

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vxq9yj2pVWk[/youtube]

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

We just took delivery of a 2013 Boss 302S (#14). Our plan is to run it in the 25 hrs of Thunderhill. The car comes on 19" street wheels with street tires. Not sure why Ford Racing did that, but in any event we need different wheels and tires. For Thunderhill we want to run DOT rubber to stay in E0 class. Recommended wheels and tires?

We note that Ford has two 18" offerings, 10" Boss 302R wheel and a new 9.5" Boss 302S wheel. Is there an advantage to one over the other?

Thanks.

BTW--are you the guys from Winding Road ? ? ?

 

[steveespo]

Actually if you do look close there is something important to note. The lug studs have full thickness section where the lug holes in the wheel match up. These are like old time knock off wheels that were pin drive and carry the wheel load on the studs not the hub. Our street lug studs are fully threaded and smaller than the lug holes in the wheel. The center hub on the spindle and hub center of the wheel itself are where the vertical loads and true axis alignment is carried. The lug nut provide clamping load in tension and are not meant to take the shear loads. If a spacer such as this eliminates the interface between the hub bearing and the wheel center the wheel will move on the studs vertically, wear the lug holes in the wheel which will cause wobble, loosening of the nuts and eventual wheel failure. Don't set up your car like this and drive it on track. Our cars experience 4 times the dynamic loads on track than what even spirited street driving does. Please don't try this at home get the right offset for your wheels.
Steve

 

[908ssp]

Actually if you do look close there is something important to note. The lug studs have full thickness section where the lug holes in the wheel match up. These are like old time knock off wheels that were pin drive and carry the wheel load on the studs not the hub. Our street lug studs are fully threaded and smaller than the lug holes in the wheel. The center hub on the spindle and hub center of the wheel itself are where the vertical loads and true axis alignment is carried. The lug nut provide clamping load in tension and are not meant to take the shear loads. If a spacer such as this eliminates the interface between the hub bearing and the wheel center the wheel will move on the studs vertically, wear the lug holes in the wheel which will cause wobble, loosening of the nuts and eventual wheel failure. Don't set up your car like this and drive it on track. Our cars experience 4 times the dynamic loads on track than what even spirited street driving does. Please don't try this at home get the right offset for your wheels.
Steve

You spotted it. Normally any spacer should be thin enough to allow the hub to center the wheel and if it isn't the spacer should have a ring built into it to center the wheel. By using the hub to center the wheel you not only assure the wheel is properly center but it takes most of the shear loads applied to the wheel. It depends on your wheel but on most wheels 1/8" is all you can put on the hub and still get the hub to engage the wheel. If your wheel has a large taper in the inside you might not be able to get away with even an 1/8th. But I have made spacers with tapers built in while not as secure as a straight hub it will center the wheel. Putting longer stronger studs in is a no brainer do it.

 

[Sesshomurai]

Actually if you do look close there is something important to note. The lug studs have full thickness section where the lug holes in the wheel match up. These are like old time knock off wheels that were pin drive and carry the wheel load on the studs not the hub. Our street lug studs are fully threaded and smaller than the lug holes in the wheel. The center hub on the spindle and hub center of the wheel itself are where the vertical loads and true axis alignment is carried. The lug nut provide clamping load in tension and are not meant to take the shear loads. If a spacer such as this eliminates the interface between the hub bearing and the wheel center the wheel will move on the studs vertically, wear the lug holes in the wheel which will cause wobble, loosening of the nuts and eventual wheel failure. Don't set up your car like this and drive it on track. Our cars experience 4 times the dynamic loads on track than what even spirited street driving does. Please don't try this at home get the right offset for your wheels.
Steve

Steve. Brilliant. This is exactly correct.