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Boss - 925 Setrab Build - Help

Spencer Terry

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Ok, before I go and order all of this I wanted to make a list and ask for guidance if I am missing anything. I have read the "how to" on this along with hours of research and decided the following.
Boss 302 oil cooler staying for now, so the Mishimoto plate is a no go as it doesn't seal well.

To Purchase
Setrab 925 unit - http://www.improvedracing.com/setrab-oil-coolers/setrab-25-row-series-oil-cooler-p-193.html (Found on Amazon around $250)

Moroso Sandwich Plate - https://www.moroso.com/universal-oil-cooler-filter-adapter23699/ ($99)

10 Feet of Stainless inner braid - http://www.improvedracing.com/an-hose/raceflux-lightweight-viton-racing-hose-for-fuel-and-oil-10an-p-213.html ($90)

M22 - 10An 90 Degree Adapter from Setrab Unit x2 - https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=8897 ($76) - Can also find these on eBay for about $20 each.

M22 - 10AN Adapter from Sandwich Plate x2 - https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=8839 ($22)

Mount - Hoping to purchase a mount from 06Mach1, have sent him a PM. If he doesn't have one / not making them anymore. Does anyone have experience with the following kit?
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=9008 ($50)


I also heard there are some areas where rubbing may occur, I will buy some protective hosing for these areas.

I am assuming I am going to be all one around $650 for a solid setup. The only thing I think I am missing is the connectors to attach the hose to the 10an fitting between the SP and the Cooler. Does anyone have a link to that? I probably need to watch a quick video on how to make these first. Is there anything else I am missing?

Thanks for the help!
 

Grant 302

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^ I’d only make those recommendations if deleting the Boss cooler. Or doing a remote mount filter. Or dedicated track use.

Plumbing for -12 makes very little sense while the Boss cooler is in the system. Just look at the dinky little port on the cooler core. JMO - as somebody who passed his misc Fluid Dynamics classes. ;)

—-

The 4 hose ends are missing from the list. I don’t think it matters where you get them from.
 

Coz

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I would recommend a thermostatic sandwich plate such as:

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=28262

I would also recommend you consider nylon braided line instead of stainless. It will be less abrasive on surfaces against which it may rub. It's also much easier to cut.

If you're passing through or against brackets then sheath them with something like RaceFlux tubing. Wrap the ends of the tubing with silicone self-fusing tape to make it look neat and to prevent water, dirt, or grease from getting inside.
 

Spencer Terry

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Thanks for recommendations! 4 hose fittings looks to be what I’m missing. Anyone have a link for what would work with this line?

Coz, why do you prefer that sandwich plate? Also, the line I chose is only braided on the inside (I believe) as the goal is to prevent rubbing.
 

Swiss Boss

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Coz

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Sorry, I just saw "stainless". You're good with that hose.

I recommend a thermostatic sandwich plate because if you don't use one your oil will be circulating through the cooler as soon as you start the car and it will take much longer to warm up.

If you don't use the thermostatic plate then you'll have to remember not to get aggressive on the throttle until your oil is warmed up.

Remember, that by itself, the Boss oil cooler is as much an oil pre-warmer as it is a cooler.
 

Spencer Terry

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Sorry, I just saw "stainless". You're good with that hose.

I recommend a thermostatic sandwich plate because if you don't use one your oil will be circulating through the cooler as soon as you start the car and it will take much longer to warm up.

If you don't use the thermostatic plate then you'll have to remember not to get aggressive on the throttle until your oil is warmed up.

Remember, that by itself, the Boss oil cooler is as much an oil pre-warmer as it is a cooler.
Thanks for the assist. My thought was that with the boss cooler, the car would actually warm up more quickly (as you mentioned) lessoning the need for a thermostat there.

Anyone have a link for the fittings? Are these generic fittings for the hose?
 

Grant 302

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It may warm up more quickly than if it didn't have the Boss cooler but it will take much longer to warm up than if you ONLY have the Boss cooler. The Setrab cooler will largely offset any warming effect of the Boss cooler.
That’s not really correct. I know this is the common perception often repeated online...but there’s some misunderstanding of the thermodynamics. I think even more so regarding the warm up phase.

As the coolant warms up, it transfers more heat into the oil than the cooler will shed the heat gained. That’s because the temperature difference between the coolant and oil quickly becomes much larger than the difference between oil and ambient air temps. Heat transfers easily between oil and water since both have high specific heat values...while air does not. So the oil to air cooler doesn’t actually do much until the oil is much warmer than ambient air. And the Boss cooler doesn’t stop warming the oil until the oil temps match or exceed coolant temps.

I can bore people with the relevant math when I have some time at a desktop...if anyone needs or wants it.
 

Spencer Terry

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That’s not really correct. I know this is the common perception often repeated online...but there’s some misunderstanding of the thermodynamics. I think even more so regarding the warm up phase.

As the coolant warms up, it transfers more heat into the oil than the cooler will shed the heat gained. That’s because the temperature difference between the coolant and oil quickly becomes much larger than the difference between oil and ambient air temps. Heat transfers easily between oil and water since both have high specific heat values...while air does not. So the oil to air cooler doesn’t actually do much until the oil is much warmer than ambient air. And the Boss cooler doesn’t stop warming the oil until the oil temps match or exceed coolant temps.

I can bore people with the relevant math when I have some time at a desktop...if anyone needs or wants it.
I’ll stick to the math for idiots version. This made sense, well written. I appreciate the insight!

lastly, with the line I purchased and 10am fittings, will these lone fittings work? Trying to figure out what goes into the hose to attach to the adapters.
https://www.anhosefittings.com/raceflux-an-female-straight-hard-tube-adapter.html
 
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Grant 302

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I think those should be fine.

——

If I were doing it today, I’d consider this to go from the hose to the sandwich plate. It’s one fitting that does the job of 2 when using the ORB ends.
https://www.anhosefittings.com/an-swivel-seal-straight-hose-end-to-o-ring.html

——

F765888C-233A-4A9B-B1A7-559FD9328699.png


Assembly is pretty straight forward but not easy the first time. The outer ‘socket’ (A above) is pressed and twisted onto the end of the hose. Next, the nipple (at the top of the pic) is inserted/pushed/twisted into the socket/hose end until the threads engage and can be tightened. The hard part is keeping the hose in the socket before the threads are engaged. The hose needs to be kept fully in the socket. A vice with soft jaw inserts might be helpful, but I did all of mine in hand with just the AN wrenches and a crescent.
 

gtorpedo

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That’s not really correct. I know this is the common perception often repeated online...but there’s some misunderstanding of the thermodynamics. I think even more so regarding the warm up phase.

As the coolant warms up, it transfers more heat into the oil than the cooler will shed the heat gained. That’s because the temperature difference between the coolant and oil quickly becomes much larger than the difference between oil and ambient air temps. Heat transfers easily between oil and water since both have high specific heat values...while air does not. So the oil to air cooler doesn’t actually do much until the oil is much warmer than ambient air. And the Boss cooler doesn’t stop warming the oil until the oil temps match or exceed coolant temps.

I can bore people with the relevant math when I have some time at a desktop...if anyone needs or wants it.
So with the OEM water/oil cooler in place, is an oil cooler thermostat really doing much to help speed oil warm up times? I'm running the OEM water/oil cooler + the Improved Racing remote filter mount w/ 185* thermostat + a Setrab 948. If getting engine oil temps up quickly with the OEM cooler in place is sufficient then going to a remote mount without the thermostat (http://www.improvedracing.com/oil-cooler-adapters/remote-engine-transmission-oil-filter-mount-p-830.html) would remove a couple oil lines, tidy up the install and probably result in better flow/reduced pressure drop?
 

bauern

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I’ll stick to the math for idiots version. This made sense, well written. I appreciate the insight!

lastly, with the line I purchased and 10am fittings, will these lone fittings work? Trying to figure out what goes into the hose to attach to the adapters.
https://www.anhosefittings.com/raceflux-an-female-straight-hard-tube-adapter.html
Those are for connecting to a hard line.
You need these for hose: (either straight or angle depending on needs):
https://www.anhosefittings.com/90-degree-double-swivel-seal-an-hose-end-fitting.html to which Grant supplied photo.
 
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Spencer Terry

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Those are for connecting to a hard line.
You need these for hose: (either straight or angle depending on needs):
https://www.anhosefittings.com/90-degree-double-swivel-seal-an-hose-end-fitting.html to which Grant supplied photo.
Thanks for the help, so I’ve got the adapters for the cooler and the sandwich plate. Does that Adapter just go straight into the coolant line? Im thinking there is another fitting that goes into the house that then attaches the hose to the an adapters (attaches at sand which plate and cooler).
 

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