The Mustang Forum for Track & Racing Enthusiasts

Taking your Mustang to an open track/HPDE event for the first time? Do you race competitively? This forum is for you! Log in to remove most ads.

  • Welcome to the Ford Mustang forum built for owners of the Mustang GT350, BOSS 302, GT500, and all other S550, S197, SN95, Fox Body and older Mustangs set up for open track days, road racing, and/or autocross. Join our forum, interact with others, share your build, and help us strengthen this community!

Boss Brake Cooling Kit Installation Tips

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Here's a thread for posting tips on installing the brake cooling kit. Below is a link to a thread that has tips and info but it's not specific to this topic hence the new thread. I'll be installing the kit this weekend so if you have any tips please post and I'll post anything I learn.

https://trackmustangsonline.com/boss-302-general-forum/who-will-be-the-first-to-post-pics-of-their-boss-on-bossmustangsonline/30/

From reading that thread and other comments I decided that I wanted to modify my backing plates for easier hose installation. I had eight slots cut as suggested by Scott and others and then pressed together. While still a bit tight it should be much easier to install the hoses going forward. I have a hack saw but no power saw to make the cuts so I took them to a local shop that made the cuts for me. Here are the photos.
 

dmichaels

Papa Smurf
547
30
CT
SpaceBoss said:
Started my install and the caliper bolts were VERY tight. before I crank on them any thoughts/advice? new guy on the forum.

They should be tight - use an impact gun if you have one, they should pop right off.
 

dmichaels

Papa Smurf
547
30
CT
HackBoss302 said:
I didn't remove the bumper, just worked from underneath. I don't feel removing the bumper cover would be of any benefit. There are times during the install it would help, but there are also times when it would hurt IMO. I completed my install on jack stands.

I did the same - did not remove the bumper, and overall everything went in fine. The fine-tuning of the routing was probably the worst part for me. The ducting takes some pretty sharp turns with the 13/14 setup
 
SpaceBoss said:
Started my install and the caliper bolts were VERY tight. before I crank on them any thoughts/advice? new guy on the forum.
Welcome to BMO. If you're referring to the two bolts that thread into the caliper they have thread locker from the factory and torque to 85 lbs so they will be tight.
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
SpaceBoss said:
Started my install and the caliper bolts were VERY tight. before I crank on them any thoughts/advice? new guy on the forum.

Push harder. ;) and welcome! I think these have thread sealant/loctite on them from the original install so they take a bit to break loose. Use some when you reinstall the bolts.
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
Moderator
8,730
2,734
Arizona, USA
SpaceBoss said:
Started my install and the caliper bolts were VERY tight. before I crank on them any thoughts/advice? new guy on the forum.
First make sure you are going the correct direction; these bolts face towards you so the rotation is backwards from normal.
Next, put a 15mm wrench on the bolts then hit the wrench with a mallet (poor mans impact wrench) until they break loose then use a ratchet. Bonus points if you do this all with a ratcheting box end wrench.

Make sure to hold the wrench tight when you hit it or it will just bounce off. Also made easier if you crank the wheel out to face you.
 
For those of you with a 2013 fog lights, have you all found any other methods to block off the duct when not in use? I tried 2 inch expansion plugs it doesn't work, At least when coupled with the Blowfish fog light brackets which are oval in shape.
 
Man, I envy you 2012 owners! Putting these on a 2013 is a PITA routing wise compared to the pics I've seen of the 2012's.

Did anyone with a 2013 take off the "extra" plastic splash guard on the driver's side? Sure pushes the duct too close to the tire. Already had bad rubbing full turn in reverse on the driver's side. Doesn't seem to rub going forward.
 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
7,530
5,247
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Illinois
I was concerned about removing the nose of the car also. After I did it once, took 10 minutes the first time, it was easy. A few screws for the grill, in wheel wells and under the nose.

Front then slips back where you remove wires to lights and the temp sensor.

I did remove the facia when I installed the cooling ducts. Not necessary as Rick mentioned but more intimidating than it needs to be.
 

TMO Supporting Vendors

Top