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Boss Brake Cooling Kit Installation Tips

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Here's a thread for posting tips on installing the brake cooling kit. Below is a link to a thread that has tips and info but it's not specific to this topic hence the new thread. I'll be installing the kit this weekend so if you have any tips please post and I'll post anything I learn.

https://trackmustangsonline.com/boss-302-general-forum/who-will-be-the-first-to-post-pics-of-their-boss-on-bossmustangsonline/30/

From reading that thread and other comments I decided that I wanted to modify my backing plates for easier hose installation. I had eight slots cut as suggested by Scott and others and then pressed together. While still a bit tight it should be much easier to install the hoses going forward. I have a hack saw but no power saw to make the cuts so I took them to a local shop that made the cuts for me. Here are the photos.
 
I swear it looks exactly the same, I will try to post some pics tomorrow. I might be trying to figure out a way to extend the hose... ::)
 
I just finished my install. It appears they are now including the front covers already cut out so you can keep the original ones. I got in just under the $40 price increase which may account for this change. I followed Rick's instructions and this made it a breeze. I did have too much length on the Drivers side which on initial fit check showed squeezing between the tie rod and the sway bar. I did not cut any, but bunched it up more toward the front end then it appears you did from the pictures and now it freely allows full movement. Thanks for the detailed install pictures. :)
 
motoviper said:
I just finished my install. It appears they are now including the front covers already cut out so you can keep the original ones. I got in just under the $40 price increase which may account for this change.
The precut openings have always been available for free you just needed to call Ford Racing and ask. That's nice they are now included.


motoviper said:
I followed Gary's instructions and this made it a breeze.
Gary? ??? :D
 
Just put mine in and just like Motoviper, my kit came with the open front inserts. I pretty much followed Rick's procedure which made everything go easier. I mounted the water bottle similar to Rick, but I noted that with a 1 & 1/4" spacer I could skip to a nearby vertical mounting hole. I had to pop the clip from the aft horizontal screw and use a bolt and nut. Had to use a backing nut on the back of the vertical bolt also. Anyway, the mount is pretty rigid and I think it makes the flow path on the passenger side a little better.

The hole on the right is the new vertical hole I used
100_0673.jpg

Here's the bottle going back using the new hole.

100_0675.jpg

These are the spacers, just like Rick's only 1 & 1/4 inch

100_0676.jpg

Here's the final assembly

100_0677.jpg
 

PeteInCT

#LS-378 - So many Porsche's, so little time....
Moderator
2,848
14
Connecticut
Hermes, dude, powerwash that frame ! ;D

PS: There's a Watkins Glen event on 8/20 - 8/21, Audi NEQ club. Interested ?
 
Hermes, dude, powerwash that frame !

I know what you mean. I think I took about 20 pounds out my front end with just bugs and rocks trapped behind all the pieces. Might still have another 10 pounds just in dirt.

PS: There's a Watkins Glen event on 8/20 - 8/21, Audi NEQ club. Interested ?

Yeah I'd definitely be interested. I still need to send you some videos, maybe I can get info from you on this event.

Stay Fast
 

PeteInCT

#LS-378 - So many Porsche's, so little time....
Moderator
2,848
14
Connecticut
Hermes said:
Hermes, dude, powerwash that frame !

I know what you mean. I think I took about 20 pounds out my front end with just bugs and rocks trapped behind all the pieces. Might still have another 10 pounds just in dirt.

PS: There's a Watkins Glen event on 8/20 - 8/21, Audi NEQ club. Interested ?

Yeah I'd definitely be interested. I still need to send you some videos, maybe I can get info from you on this event.

Stay Fast

Sending PM...
 
Teh problem....
20120818_103708.jpg

Teh fix.....
20120818_145352.jpg

Full lock....
20120818_151439.jpg

20120818_145654.jpg


I dont have a pic but instead of flipping the horns I just swapped tthem to the inside of the frame. Gave me a lot of room to work with.
 
I refuse to change the oil until 3000 miles.

And I prefer the look and protection the plastic peice provides, I did shave it down for better.fitment.
 
Installed the FRPP brake duct kit. Took about 4.5 hours total to complete between yesterday and today. Could probably do it again in about 1/2 the time, now that I know what's all involved. Degree of difficulty is about a 5 out of 10; it's not all that difficult of an install, but quite a few parts have to be unfastened and refastened (including the brake calipers), some of which need to be Locktite-ed and torqued to spec (caliper and backing plate bolts).

As previous posters have said, you have modify a few things... On the passenger side, the windshield washer fluid reservoir needs to be moved outboard about 1-1/4" to provide clearance for the ducting... I used nylon spacers and 6mm x 1-1/2" shoulder bolts from Ace hardware to do this. On the driver side, you'll have to do some trial fitting and trimming of the forward inner fender liner (lower edge) and lower splash shield. I was able to route the ducting without flipping the horns, though. The ducting hose fit fine over the fog light inlet flanges, but needed some patience and persuasion to fit over the backing plate flanges...some dielectric silicon grease really helped here. I didn't cut slots in them to crimp the end, just coated them w/ some grease and slowly worked them into place over the flanges. Also, follow the instructions and cut/remove several inches of reinforcing cord from each end of the hose. This does help.

FRPP instruction sheets here: http://www.fordracingparts.com/download/instructionsheets/FordInstShtM-2004-MBA.pdf
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
After installing my 2nd kit on my GT, I have an annoying tip to add...check the clearance of the backing plate to your ABS ring and make sure it rotates without interference. I had to grind and file about 1/8" by the duct opening to clear my ABS ring due to sloppy fabrication and (lack of) QC. :mad:

Good news is that even with this issue, I did the kit in less than 1 1/2 hours. Only things relocated or removed were the horns and the driver side well liner by the oil filter/sway bar. Only cut was to the passenger side 'shark fin' on the under tray.
 
I agree regarding the quality control issues on the plate that sits behind the rotor. I am installing the 2013 ducts right now, and the holes on that plate didn't quite line up with the holes they need to be bolted to.

I ended up using a vice to sorta expand the "C" shape a bit. It helped.

By the way, the 2013 front fascia plates are nicely done. I was a little offended that the 2013 kit went up so much in price... but I sorta can see why now.

Also of note: The front fascia plates in the 2013 GT are rather hard to remove. I did a lot of prying and pulling in different directions, but ultimately they popped off. I thought the new fascia pieces were kinda awkward to put on as well... I was having a hard time figuring out if they were fully into their slots.
 
Anyone who has installed this kit on a 2013 and up. Did you have to remove the front bumper to fit the fog lights or did you just remove the front lip and work from underneath?

-Thierry
 
Track50h said:
Anyone who has installed this kit on a 2013 and up. Did you have to remove the front bumper to fit the fog lights or did you just remove the front lip and work from underneath?

-Thierry

I didn't remove the bumper, just worked from underneath. I don't feel removing the bumper cover would be of any benefit. There are times during the install it would help, but there are also times when it would hurt IMO. I completed my install on jack stands.
 

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