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Boss Header Install - Kooks Super Streets

302 Hi Pro

Boss 302 - Racing Legend to Modern Muscle Car
2,009
439
Southeast
Hi Rob:

I'm waiting for the delivery of my Kooks Super Street, (Shortie) Headers and I have been reading about the install. The instructions from Kooks instructs the removal of the factory header studs and replace with the supplied header mounting bolts.

My question is:

Is it best to pull the factory header studs and use the supplied bolts, or should I order new header nuts from Ford and use those for the Kooks header install?

After reading your head bolt v. head stud discussion and it made me wonder about the above question.

Thanks so much,
Dave
2HP
 
I had to remove some of the studs on either side to get the header on. I don't remember the specifics, but each side was different. I had dropped the K-Member and had very good access. I had clearance issues with the frame rails due to the different shape of the Kooks Super Street headers to that of the stock manifolds. After several attempts to reuse the studs I decided to simplify the installation I just took out all the studs.
 

302 Hi Pro

Boss 302 - Racing Legend to Modern Muscle Car
2,009
439
Southeast
Cherno134 said:
I had to remove some of the studs on either side to get the header on. I don't remember the specifics, but each side was different. I had dropped the K-Member and had very good access. I had clearance issues with the frame rails due to the different shape of the Kooks Super Street headers to that of the stock manifolds. After several attempts to reuse the studs I decided to simplify the installation I just took out all the studs.

Cherno134:

This makes sense to me now, after looking at this again, I can see now where the paths of the new pipe orientation of the Kooks SS will have interference issues along the bottom of the mounting flanges.

Thanks so much for the clarification on this.
Happy New Year,
Dave
 

302 Hi Pro

Boss 302 - Racing Legend to Modern Muscle Car
2,009
439
Southeast
ArizonaBOSS said:
I dunno what the answer is here, but if you're taking out the factory studs, you will need an "E8" External Torx socket.

Hi AB:

Sounds like the voice of experience speaking to me here! Thank you for the tip on the name of the stud extractor tool. This little project is shaping up to be a memorable experience!

Good Luck with your build,
Dave
 
5,005
5,820
When I can...let me say that again..when I can... I keep studs on the outside (front and back) this has nothing to do with bolt vs stud, it has more to do with being able to "hang" the header on the studs while starting all the other bolts. I mentioned a few things in the article on our T1 teardown with mustangzilla, taking the headers off in the car was major PITA especially since they can be installed and torqued prior to the engine being placed in the car. IMO at some point you have to take the bull by the tail and face the situation, it's all you can do just to get the things on the car to begin with. For this reason I would recommend using a bolt with a 12 point head on it so you can index a wrench on it without the wrench hitting the block, header tube, frame rail or whatever else gets in the way, and be able to turn it. An Allen or Torx bit may also work in this application, I've requested the shop to quit using the standard hex bolts for header installations.
IF you have a spare head lying around sometimes it pays to do a dummy run with the header to make sure all the bolts line up, I've seen brand X headers that had individual flanges, so misaligned that I had to take a torch to them, heat them up and force them on the dummy head, then heated them up again to get them to normalize in their new (correct) position.
Not quite the answer you were looking for but the best I can do, we use American brand headers but I understand KOOKs to be a quality product as well.
 
With the Kooks Super Street Headers a set of four 12 point flange nuts for the header collector flange to Cat flange is an upgrade you should consider. Especially for the upper bolt on the passenger side. Access is very tight and a 12 point nut will save you a lot of time and frustration. I didn't have any big problems installing the headers last summer, but I am dropping the transmission now to change out the clutch and it was a struggle to get that upper passenger side nut loosened and removed. I will be getting 12 point flange nuts to put it back together this time.

PASSENGER SIDE
20140828_235814.jpg

DRIVER SIDE
20140829_002523.jpg

20140831_081947.jpg
 

302 Hi Pro

Boss 302 - Racing Legend to Modern Muscle Car
2,009
439
Southeast
Cherno134 said:
With the Kooks Super Street Headers a set of four 12 point flange nuts for the header flange to Cat flange is an upgrade you should consider. Especially for the upper bolt on the passenger side. Access is very tight and a 12 point nut will save you a lot of time and frustration. I didn't have any big problems installing the headers last summer, but I am dropping the transmission now to change out the clutch and it was a struggle to get that upper passenger side nut loosened and removed. I will be getting 12 point flange nuts to put it back together this time.

Cherno134:

Good advice, please post the actual product number and website where you purchase the 12 pt bolts.

I'll also pass this information on as I know of two others doing the same upgrade.

OBTW how do you like the Super Streets?

Regards,
Dave
 
Dave,

I like the Super Streets - excellent quality and fit. The header flange mated up perfectly with the head. I bought a new set Ford exhaust manifold gaskets instead of using the gaskets supplied by Kooks. The only complaint I have is the oxygen sensor bung location on the driver's side. The location needed to be clocked 3 or 4 degrees towards the transmission because the top of the oxygen sensor is about 1/4 inch from the firewall. The clearance on the passenger side is much better.

I'll let you know where I find the 12-point flange nuts. They need to be metric threads to fit the studs on the catalytic muffler studs. I will try my local Ace Hardware first to confirm the thread size and their availability - otherwise I'll shop eBay as I saw many ARP metric 12-point flange nuts.

Al
 
5,005
5,820
bolts

http://www.allensfasteners.com/search_results.asp?txtsearchParamCat=81


nuts

http://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/300-8311/10002/-1?CAWELAID=1710886175&CAGPSPN=pla&catargetid=230006180000848462&cadevice=c&gclid=Cj0KEQiAlISlBRDHpIekkMGiiskBEiQAh-0KQAgC6wuEMUBNEcF1XTfxxp_QohoJfPgN3DYTPMN33cAaAvi_8P8HAQ
 
Something else to check when you have the passenger side exhaust manifold off is the wiring harness from the alternator to the battery. On my car the plastic jacket had started to melt. I extended the heat tape beyond what Ford had installed.

AlttoBatMeltedHarness1.jpg

I had the K-Member out so in the bottom of the picture is the frame rail and the top of the picture is the edge of the head.

20140829_163656.jpg

20140830_182202.jpg

20140831_082027.jpg
 
The studs on the catalytic converter flanges that connect to the collector flange on the headers are M10 x 1.5

The ARP part number for a package of 2, 12-point nuts, 8740 chrome moly steel is 300-8355 - about $8 per package

I ordered mine from Summit Racing - they had them in stock, same day shipping ($4.95 S&H). JEGS has free shipping but they won't ship out until 10 Jan.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-300-8355?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKEAiAt4mlBRDXwt_m9ICU4DcSJAAS_X0WCAp9EsRz09nE-MvLQBJn4il9eOGl61u69EirOKhxvxoCJ2bw_wcB

http://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/300-8355/10002/-1?CAWELAID=230006180000120573&CAGPSPN=pla&catargetid=230006180000848462&cadevice=c&gclid=CjwKEAiAt4mlBRDXwt_m9ICU4DcSJAAS_X0Wk6pUdNOXLUZH5v6-WmNCq1l3rtVXP9zLwiGtNuXm5xoCzqjw_wcB
 
Hi Guys,
I'm one of Dave's (Hi Pro's) buddies also installing a set of kooks shorties.
Some great information and advice here.

I would like to install new header/exhaust gaskets with the kooks.
Wondering if anybody has a source (and/or part number) for the OEM gaskets ?

So far I have the driver side factory header removed.
Also have the four rear-most nuts removed on the passenger side.

For those that have done this mod, any tips for getting to the front header nuts on the passenger side ?
Mighty tight over on that side.
I have a hoist and can lift the engine. I assume I will need to remove the motor mount bracket on that side to get access ?
Any other tips or tricks would be appreciated.

Thanks !
- b13 (don)
 

steveespo

Lord knows I'm a Voodoo Child
Moderator
3,826
1,413
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Cookeville TN
Don
Have the A/C evacuated and remove that compressor hose before you break it, ask me how I know, this will make the front bolts easier to tighten.
Here is a good link to buy the exhaust gaskets

http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/PartDetail.aspx?n=AoOeI62hNiR%2flXpToWfQZg%3d%3d&id=300047661&m=2&search=true&year=2012&make=Ford&model=Mustang
Steve
 
BR3Z-9448-A Ford part number for the exhaust manifold to head gasket - list price $27.78 each

BR3Z-5B266-A Ford part number for the exhaust manifold collector flange to catalytic converter flange gasket - list price $27.71 each

I have no advice on access to the front passenger side nuts & studs. Steve's real life experience and solution sounds like excellent advice to me.

I dropped the K-member to install the Ford Racing front control arms and install a Moroso road racing oil pan - and decided to add the headers while everything was accessible. Dropping the K-Member was easier than I anticipated - just follow the steps in the shop manual. I supported the engine and transmission at the transmission bell housing with a transmission jack. I initially built a wooden support,contoured to fit the crankshaft pulley, to support the front of the engine. After getting into the project, I found the front support was not necessary with the engine supported by the transmission jack. I removed the wooden support after the photos were taken and it made navigation under the car for the rest of the project MUCH easier. Aligning the K-Member back to the body was a snap because Ford designed alignment holes in the frame rails and the two front K-Member attachment points. With the alignment holes it is very easy to put the K-member back to where it was before removing it - and maintaining your front end alignment. I supported and lowered the K-member with a floor jack. I used a 2x4 to span between the two arms in the K-member at the balance weight point of the K-member.

20140818_170759.jpg

20140818_175059.jpg

20140819_174711.jpg
 
5,005
5,820
Cherno134 said:
BR3Z-9448-A Ford part number for the exhaust manifold to head gasket - list price $27.78 each

BR3Z-5B266-A Ford part number for the exhaust manifold collector flange to catalytic converter flange gasket - list price $27.71 each

I have no advice on access to the front passenger side nuts & studs. Steve's real life experience and solution sounds like excellent advice to me.

I dropped the K-member to install the Ford Racing front control arms and install a Moroso road racing oil pan - and decided to add the headers while everything was accessible. Dropping the K-Member was easier than I anticipated - just follow the steps in the shop manual. I supported the engine and transmission at the transmission bell housing with a transmission jack. I initially built a wooden support,contoured to fit the crankshaft pulley, to support the front of the engine. After getting into the project, I found the front support was not necessary with the engine supported by the transmission jack. I removed the wooden support after the photos were taken and it made navigation under the car for the rest of the project MUCH easier. Aligning the K-Member back to the body was a snap because Ford designed alignment holes in the frame rails and the two front K-Member attachment points. With the alignment holes it is very easy to put the K-member back to where it was before removing it - and maintaining your front end alignment. I supported and lowered the K-member with a floor jack. I used a 2x4 to span between the two arms in the K-member at the balance weight point of the K-member.

20140818_170759.jpg

20140818_175059.jpg

20140819_174711.jpg

You freakin' cheater..you're supposed to do that with the engine hot and w/o pulling the subby
 

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