This is the Build Thread for bpracer's (almost) Boss 302S. Reply below.
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S197 bpracer's (almost) Boss 302S Build Thread Profile - S197 Mustangs
- Thread starterbpracer
- Start date
2012 Boss 302S Clone
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- Thread starter
- #2
I'm currently sorting through details on this car. It's had two dyno runs but final tune remains to be done.
It's dirty. Towed it home on an open trailer through the worst dust storm I've ever experienced.
I need to plug dozens of holes, insulate some things from heat, check wiring routing, change the seat height, etc, etc, etc.
I've already remounted the cold air box, and one shock reservoir, changed out the fasteners holding the grill to radiator shroud, de-burred the cuts on the underside of the aluminum hood, and changed how the hood latch block of plate was attached. Two hood latches need to be replaced and finessed to fit better.
The biggest build item that is incomplete is no reinforcement in the trunk lid to transfer the aero load to the chassis. I wish I had a TIG welder so I could do something in aluminum, but I'll have to make do with steel tubing/brackets.
It's dirty. Towed it home on an open trailer through the worst dust storm I've ever experienced.
I need to plug dozens of holes, insulate some things from heat, check wiring routing, change the seat height, etc, etc, etc.
I've already remounted the cold air box, and one shock reservoir, changed out the fasteners holding the grill to radiator shroud, de-burred the cuts on the underside of the aluminum hood, and changed how the hood latch block of plate was attached. Two hood latches need to be replaced and finessed to fit better.
The biggest build item that is incomplete is no reinforcement in the trunk lid to transfer the aero load to the chassis. I wish I had a TIG welder so I could do something in aluminum, but I'll have to make do with steel tubing/brackets.
Bill Pemberton
0ld Ford Automotive Racing Terror
Great looking beast and fantastic it has a fuel cell. I lost more than one race due to that stupid saddle back tank Ford puts in Mustangs - including back then with their Boss 302S. I had Jonathan Blevins ( Chicane23.com ) put in a fuel cell for me and what a beautiful difference. Have fun and hopefully if you run American Iron the new Toyo R will prove to be a more communicative, stickier round pile of rubber.
Great looking ride with LOTS of good parts on it! Look forward to following your progress.
- Thread starter
- #5
As mentioned before, filling lots of holes. It's too late to weld and paint. So grommets (body panel plugs) are what your left to use. The plastic ones at hardware stores are, well, plastic. Good OEM ones in the right size are hit and miss. I found some silicone "plugs" that are really meant to seal glassware, etc on Amazon.
I zapped one with a propane torch just to see what would happen. It would burn under direct flame but basically turned to powder where it got hit with direct flame.
6mm up to 50mm. The groove may be too wide for thin metal but they work good for old 3/16" rivet holes.
https://a.co/d/6kxiqsv
I zapped one with a propane torch just to see what would happen. It would burn under direct flame but basically turned to powder where it got hit with direct flame.
6mm up to 50mm. The groove may be too wide for thin metal but they work good for old 3/16" rivet holes.
https://a.co/d/6kxiqsv
302BOB
Epic Contributor
Pluggin holes is what I did best back in the day...........Read that as you may..........................................
Bill Pemberton
0ld Ford Automotive Racing Terror
Great idea, I ended using chrome tape on my Boss 302S, but I really think your idea is much better!
- Thread starter
- #8
Today, I made a brace to prevent the trunk lid from bending under aero load. I wanted to do something more elaborate, but this will have to do.
I still need to source some trunk lid bumpers. Watson made those bits for the Boss302S, FP350S, etc, but I don't think they're available.
I still need to source some trunk lid bumpers. Watson made those bits for the Boss302S, FP350S, etc, but I don't think they're available.
- Thread starter
- #9
The original Watson Racing units on the 302S/R cars used the hood bump-stop from a 92ish Ford Ranger. The McMaster Carr units look beefier though.
- Thread starter
- #11
Right now I'm trying to correct the rear bulkhead panel. I thought the original owner had ordered the wrong panel from Watson. The online picture is not what's in the car. But, what showed up was the same thing. I guess the roll cage down tubes are mounted further back than planned??? It's fixable, but I wasted $400 getting a new panel from Watson Racing.
Eventually, these will go on:
Eventually, these will go on:
- Thread starter
- #12
- Thread starter
- #13
The car has a JLT intake, which is fine, but the side hood louvers are above the filter and the cold air from the front of the car was blocked off when the radiator was boxed. I'll have to partially block off the hood duct and try to seal the airbox off as best I can. I bought a used air tube to complete the section from the JLT airbox to the radiator support.
- Thread starter
- #14
Probably eight hours of work to go from zero clearance to about one inch of clearance from the fuel cell to exhaust on both sides. Ugh!
Also getting the exhaust tips centered in the valance.
Some exhaust wrap and a heat shield will be in it's future.
An MBRP, made in Canada, 3" exhaust. It's ok. Seemed heavy but maybe I'm just tired.
Also getting the exhaust tips centered in the valance.
Some exhaust wrap and a heat shield will be in it's future.
An MBRP, made in Canada, 3" exhaust. It's ok. Seemed heavy but maybe I'm just tired.
- Thread starter
- #15
- Thread starter
- #16
I replaced the rear interior bulkhead, ran all the wires back in the trunk, and made everything tidy.
I tried to start the car.... nothing. No power. Battery was charged.
Started making sure everything was connected and when I touched the connectors for the battery isolator, the car powered up intermittently.
It ended up being a pin in the male wire connector for the "power" switch was not actually seated in the connector from the factory. I took apart the DT connector wedge lock after making a little removal tool, and reseated the pin.
That would have been I really headache to figure out at the track.
I tried to start the car.... nothing. No power. Battery was charged.
Started making sure everything was connected and when I touched the connectors for the battery isolator, the car powered up intermittently.
It ended up being a pin in the male wire connector for the "power" switch was not actually seated in the connector from the factory. I took apart the DT connector wedge lock after making a little removal tool, and reseated the pin.
That would have been I really headache to figure out at the track.
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