Brake Duct Routing

[ArizonaBOSS]

I promised Cloud9 that I would get him a picture of how my brake ducts are tied to the steering etc, I figured everyone could use this as a guide when retrofitting LS ducts to their car.

The key point of discussion was how to tie the ducting back so it doesn't get rubbed by the wheels.

I snapped these pictures today while replacing my front wheel hubs/bearings.

This is the Quantum Motorsports kit for Brembo Brakes on my 2006 GT. They recommend using a "chain" of 4 zip ties to secure the duct to the steering rack tie rods.
1. "Boundary" zip tie to prevent other ties from shifting location on the tie rod. (Yellow)
2. Zip Tie around Tie Rod (Black)
3. Zip Tie around brake duct (Black)
4. Zip Tie looped into #2 and #3 (making a small "chain") of zip ties. (Yellow)

This keeps the ducting away from the wheel, and prevents it from being crushed or sandwiched between the swaybar. I have been running this setup for over a year using 18x10 wheels for the track, with no noticeable hose rub.

 

[cloud9]

Very cool. I have mine mounted below the cutout in the frame like you show but not attached to the tie rod which I can see would help keep them from the tires. I have a couple clarifications:

1) Is the anchor yellow #1 just kept in place by tightening it down hard, or is there a bend or catch in the tie rod that keeps it from sliding toward the wheel?

2) On your item 4, I assume you mean looped into #2 and #3, and not #2 and #4?

Thanks a lot for posting up. How did you know your wheel bearings were bad? Was it wobbling during tech or did you hear some noise coming from it? I haven't had any go bad yet on my GT500, but curious what the warning signs were.

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

Very cool. I have mine mounted below the cutout in the frame like you show but not attached to the tie rod which I can see would help keep them from the tires. I have a couple clarifications:

1) Is the anchor yellow #1 just kept in place by tightening it down hard, or is there a bend or catch in the tie rod that keeps it from sliding toward the wheel?

2) On your item 4, I assume you mean looped into #2 and #3, and not #2 and #4?

Thanks a lot for posting up. How did you know your wheel bearings were bad? Was it wobbling during tech or did you hear some noise coming from it? I haven't had any go bad yet on my GT500, but curious what the warning signs were.

1. There is no feature there in the tie rod, just zip it down good-n-tight.
2. Your assumption is correct--I made a typo!

After seeing the BOSS on its side at Barrett Jackson, the routing of the hose is going to be tight with the new aero guards in the front part of the wheelwell.

As far as the wheel bearings, I hadn't noticed any problem. But I ran them for years with no ducting to cool them so I figured it was good measure for safety's sake to just replace them.

 

[cloud9]

After seeing the BOSS on its side at Barrett Jackson, the routing of the hose is going to be tight with the new aero guards in the front part of the wheelwell.

Did you see a regular Boss or Laguna Seca? I assume we can follow the same routing path used on the Laguna Seca to install on the regular Boss?

 

[VoodooBoss]

GT, post a link of the photos you took. If I remember correctly he had photos of a CO Boss and Black LS.

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

After seeing the BOSS on its side at Barrett Jackson, the routing of the hose is going to be tight with the new aero guards in the front part of the wheelwell.

Did you see a regular Boss or Laguna Seca? I assume we can follow the same routing path used on the Laguna Seca to install on the regular Boss?

Close up of the regular BOSS. We should definitely be able to duplicate the LS routing. My comment was mainly the difference in shrouding between 05-09 cars and the 11+.

 

[908ssp]

Nice hub looks like it is aluminum? Here is my duct plate haven't mounted up the hose yet so thanks for the tips.

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

Nice hub looks like it is aluminum? Here is my duct plate haven't mounted up the hose yet so thanks for the tips.

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r245/908ssp/MyMustang/0109011547.jpg[/mg]
[/quote]

Nice, fab those yourself?

You should ditch those rotors, though. Cross-drilled stuff is fail and AIDS if you're actually planning on any real track use.

 

[VoodooBoss]

Like this?

 

[ArizonaBOSS]

Slotted rotors are OK for a race application. I'd just run blanks for dual-purpose street/track use, though.