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I used with OEM fluid without issue. OEM is a DOT4 fluid so it’s not bad stuff. I flushed OEM with Amsoil to try their new brake fluid out and it worked real well too.
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Brake Pads for GT350
- Thread starterDocWalt
- Start date
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I flushed mine with Motul RBF600 before my first track day.
- Thread starter
- #24
Thanks guys. I'll order some RBF600 or something. I have a few unopened bottles but they've been sitting in the garage for a year... Not worth the risk.
If the bottles are sealed they should be fine.
- Thread starter
- #26
Just checked, one opened recently and one from... years ago? Oh well, new fluid it is!
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Just sayin, Ford actually put DOT4 fluid in the 350 as the OEM fluid. That’s pretty cool. I compared the boiling temps of the Motorcraft fluid to other DOT4 fluids and it’s middle of the road within the category. I ran it my first season without issue. Tracking the car is so expensive and this is an area you can address with normal fluid change intervals. Just throwing it out there as it is one less thing to get done before tracking the car, and it will save you a few bucks.
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- #29
The DOT4 "Heavy Duty" fluid was rated for ~540 degrees F but the DOT 4 LV used on the GT350 is lower at ~510 degrees.
See here on page 4: http://www.msds.ford.com/documents/189224 A_GBEN.pdf
Seeing that made me a bit less comfortable with the OEM fluid on track. I'm pretty hard on brakes...
See here on page 4: http://www.msds.ford.com/documents/189224 A_GBEN.pdf
Seeing that made me a bit less comfortable with the OEM fluid on track. I'm pretty hard on brakes...
Ford Racing school uses Castrol SRF on their school cars exclusively.
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RES_22
Rob
Wet boiling point is more important than dry bp.
Dry bp refers to temp at which pure fliud boils...wet bp is temp at which “contaminated” (with water droplets) fliud boils...a lot lower than dry bp.
Water bubbles boil...water vapour collects as a slug...develops a long pedal pretty quickly (unlike “pad fade”).
SRF is the top of the mountain...very high wet bp. Motul 600/660 is good. As with all high-temp synthetics, however, the higher the wet bp...the harder to bleed cleanly. As such, they must be changed often because the higher the wet bp, the more the stuff loves moisture.
I’ve used SRF and 660... sprint, time -attack and endurance events... many different cars, brake systems and tires. I settled on 660 because the cost delta between it and SRF is significant vs a nearly non-sensible performance/safety gain.
PS: I think that Ford is sponsored by Castrol. If not, they can *probably* afford to go through a couple of cases per car per season
Dry bp refers to temp at which pure fliud boils...wet bp is temp at which “contaminated” (with water droplets) fliud boils...a lot lower than dry bp.
Water bubbles boil...water vapour collects as a slug...develops a long pedal pretty quickly (unlike “pad fade”).
SRF is the top of the mountain...very high wet bp. Motul 600/660 is good. As with all high-temp synthetics, however, the higher the wet bp...the harder to bleed cleanly. As such, they must be changed often because the higher the wet bp, the more the stuff loves moisture.
I’ve used SRF and 660... sprint, time -attack and endurance events... many different cars, brake systems and tires. I settled on 660 because the cost delta between it and SRF is significant vs a nearly non-sensible performance/safety gain.
PS: I think that Ford is sponsored by Castrol. If not, they can *probably* afford to go through a couple of cases per car per season
Who is running braided brake lines on their GT350? A good improvement when hard on the brakes? I ran them on my STI for the track and was eyeing them on Optimum Performance website along with titanium shims
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
- Thread starter
- #34
Brake fluid flushes with RBF600 and the pedal feels slightly stiffer. No bubbles came out, but the OEM fluid in the calipers was fairly brown in color.
ST43s go on tomorrow with titanium heat shields up front. Autocross on Sunday to help with a light bedding in and then Cup 2s will get installed later this week... Then 9 hour drive to VIR on Friday
ST43s go on tomorrow with titanium heat shields up front. Autocross on Sunday to help with a light bedding in and then Cup 2s will get installed later this week... Then 9 hour drive to VIR on Friday
- Thread starter
- #35
Any of you guys with the ST43s notice that they don't cover the entire swept area on the rotor? There's a solid ~1/2" of unused rotor inside the pads. Odd.
- Thread starter
- #36
The pads performed great today. Always solid bite.
I'm getting some pad deposits up front though... and serious brake shudder once I'm slowed to ~60 mph. I had a faint barely noticeable pulse rolling to a stop on the stock pads that I wasn't sure was actually there. It got really bad today. Oh well, I took a chance that it was just bad deposits from the stock pads, but it appears as though maybe the rotors were hot spotted and didn't get cleaned up with the brake rotor hone and maybe even cutting them wouldn't remove the hardened material.
Ordered new rotors and I'll try again. The pads are wearing VERY well and they'll probably last for my whole season.
I'm getting some pad deposits up front though... and serious brake shudder once I'm slowed to ~60 mph. I had a faint barely noticeable pulse rolling to a stop on the stock pads that I wasn't sure was actually there. It got really bad today. Oh well, I took a chance that it was just bad deposits from the stock pads, but it appears as though maybe the rotors were hot spotted and didn't get cleaned up with the brake rotor hone and maybe even cutting them wouldn't remove the hardened material.
Ordered new rotors and I'll try again. The pads are wearing VERY well and they'll probably last for my whole season.
Never heard of anyone having issues with the GT350 rotors. Did you bed the pads in before your track day?
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I believe I got the very first set of ST43s for the 350 and mine are the same way...not an issue. However, others who have gotten pads more recently have the correct oem shaped backing plate. How long ago did you buy yours and did you get them from Porterfield?
As far as the pulsing goes, my first question as well is, did you bed the pads? If so, how? I just got new rotors and bedded them well. I’ve never had pulsing issues with these pads.
- Thread starter
- #39
Yep, I bedded them in. Something like 6 hard stops from 70-10. Should I do more? Less? It's tough to do more safely in my area, even that is really pushing it.
I bought them from Porterfield in December/January. Not overly concerned about the pad size, just kinda odd.
I bought my car used and I have no idea what the PO did but it's always had that tiny tiny brake pulse when pulling up to a stop. I never beat on the stock pads enough to get them truly hot, only one autocross with 90 mph speeds, everything else was "typical" autocross stuff.
I didn't notice the shake when bedding the pads, but I had a 380 or so mile trip to the track, so it's possible I didn't get a properly good bed and then scrubbed it off on the drive.
I bought them from Porterfield in December/January. Not overly concerned about the pad size, just kinda odd.
I bought my car used and I have no idea what the PO did but it's always had that tiny tiny brake pulse when pulling up to a stop. I never beat on the stock pads enough to get them truly hot, only one autocross with 90 mph speeds, everything else was "typical" autocross stuff.
I didn't notice the shake when bedding the pads, but I had a 380 or so mile trip to the track, so it's possible I didn't get a properly good bed and then scrubbed it off on the drive.
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I have a friend @honeybadger who got some pretty bad pulsing from his rotors after his first track day on G-loc pads. It was his first track day ever and he admittedly overheated the brakes with his technique. Although they say not to, he machined his rotors and all was well thereafter. He used them for about a dozen more track days after that without issue. He took the rotors to a local Napa to have then machined. He did say a certain type of machine should be used. I will have him post the details.
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