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Brake residual pressure valve

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42
42
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
Utah
I'm completely rebuilding my braking system with new everything and bending my own lines. Do any of you use a residual pressure valve? I know when they are most likely used and for what, but for a track car is this a semi normal add some of you do?
 
98
143
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Olsburg, KS
I did a street rebuild/conversion on my Cougar and didn't use RPVs. I'm running manual SSBC front discs (Kelsey-Hayes 4-piston style) and rear drums. I'm using a Wilwood manual proportional valve (and a line lock) instead of the traditional proportioning valve that incorporates the light. The car was originally 4 wheel manual drum. I debated at the time whether to use RPVs or not and decided the way I was using the car and the fact that the entire system was running "downhill" from the master cylinder that I didn't need them. So far the brake system has worked just fine. If I was doing more performance oriented driving I probably would have used them.

I don't know what you're using for lines, but I found that copper/nickel lines are WAY easier to work with than stainless steel lines. The ultimate strength is a little less, but still high enough to be DOT rated. I think I only had to redo 1 end once I started using it, and I had quite a few ends to make. I don't know if any sanctioning bodies have any restrictions against using it, so you'd want to check for sure before you use it.
 
42
42
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
Utah
I did a street rebuild/conversion on my Cougar and didn't use RPVs. I'm running manual SSBC front discs (Kelsey-Hayes 4-piston style) and rear drums. I'm using a Wilwood manual proportional valve (and a line lock) instead of the traditional proportioning valve that incorporates the light. The car was originally 4 wheel manual drum. I debated at the time whether to use RPVs or not and decided the way I was using the car and the fact that the entire system was running "downhill" from the master cylinder that I didn't need them. So far the brake system has worked just fine. If I was doing more performance oriented driving I probably would have used them.

I don't know what you're using for lines, but I found that copper/nickel lines are WAY easier to work with than stainless steel lines. The ultimate strength is a little less, but still high enough to be DOT rated. I think I only had to redo 1 end once I started using it, and I had quite a few ends to make. I don't know if any sanctioning bodies have any restrictions against using it, so you'd want to check for sure before you use it.
Thanks. I already have all of my brake lines and fittings. Everything is stainless steel. It's been a pain finding fittings, had to order Tee blocks from Australia. I got the flare tool from Eastwood and it is smooth on stainless.
 

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