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Brake Upgrade Advice for my 17 5.0 non-performance pack

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30
14
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
California
Hey guys,

I have a 17 5.0 non-Performance Pack. I am looking to upgrade my brakes and I need some advice. I am new to tracking my car so sorry in advance for some stupid questions. I will be installing the SS lines and doing a flush with Motul RBF600. So, I am looking to upgrade the rotors and the pads now. Right now, I am not looking to do the Brembo 6 pot conversion. Maybe down the line. I don't have track tires yet, I am on Michellin. PS4S.

1. What are the choices for rotors? I don't want to spend big on stuff like 2 piece girodisc yet. Maybe, down the line. I read that I must avoid drilled. Slotted ok but not preferred. But preferably get a high-quality OEM style blank. What are the choices for high-quality blanks? Something that's great bang for the buck without sacrificing performance?
I read that centric blanks are good for the money. Do they perform better than OEM rotor or are they just good replacement rotor for the track that people don't mind burning through? What are the actual performance advantages of the Centric premium over the centric standard?

Are these the ones I should be getting? the 121.xxxxxx



2. Pads wise. I am considering G-Loc. I read that they're good for performance, good temp range and are pretty friendly on rotors. Should I run a R10 front /R8 rear setup or a R12/R10 set up? Do I need to run a more aggressive set up like the R12/R10 as a first-timer?

3. I plan on switching to race pads prior to the event. Can I put my old OEM street pad back on the car after the event? Will it mess up the new rotor since it has been bedded with the new race pads material? Or, do I need to get a new pad like the G-Loc GS1 (street pad) in order to not mess up the rotor? And then I keep switching off between the track and street pad as needed. If I need the G Loc GS1, do I run that front and rear?

4. If I drive a few hours to the track in race pads, thats ok right? As long as I don't step on the brakes hard until they're warm?

Quote Reply
 
Last edited:
Slotted rotor is always preferred for a track setup.

In my opinion, spending any money on the 14" setup would be a waste... I think I was able to change my non PP mustang to pp brakes for under 800$

As far as compounds go... The r12 isn't a bad compound for a front pad, you could easily drive to the track on this and won't notice horrible cold performance. It is not that aggressive of a compound.. I left R12 pads on my car for about 3 months of daily driving and it was fine.

Rears maybe stick with R8. S550s don't like too aggressive of a rear pad as it will upset the ABS.
 
301
360
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
Raleigh, NC
Hey guys,

I have a 17 5.0 non-Performance Pack. I am looking to upgrade my brakes and I need some advice. I am new to tracking my car so sorry in advance for some stupid questions. I will be installing the SS lines and doing a flush with Motul RBF600. So, I am looking to upgrade the rotors and the pads now. Right now, I am not looking to do the Brembo 6 pot conversion. Maybe down the line. I don't have track tires yet, I am on Michellin. PS4S.

1. What are the choices for rotors? I don't want to spend big on stuff like 2 piece girodisc yet. Maybe, down the line. I read that I must avoid drilled. Slotted ok but not preferred. But preferably get a high-quality OEM style blank. What are the choices for high-quality blanks? Something that's great bang for the buck without sacrificing performance?
I read that centric blanks are good for the money. Do they perform better than OEM rotor or are they just good replacement rotor for the track that people don't mind burning through? What are the actual performance advantages of the Centric premium over the centric standard?

Are these the ones I should be getting? the 121.xxxxxx



2. Pads wise. I am considering G-Loc. I read that they're good for performance, good temp range and are pretty friendly on rotors. Should I run a R10 front /R8 rear setup or a R12/R10 set up? Do I need to run a more aggressive set up like the R12/R10 as a first-timer?

3. I plan on switching to race pads prior to the event. Can I put my old OEM street pad back on the car after the event? Will it mess up the new rotor since it has been bedded with the new race pads material? Or, do I need to get a new pad like the G-Loc GS1 (street pad) in order to not mess up the rotor? And then I keep switching off between the track and street pad as needed. If I need the G Loc GS1, do I run that front and rear?

4. If I drive a few hours to the track in race pads, thats ok right? As long as I don't step on the brakes hard until they're warm?

Quote Reply
I’m in a similar situation. My son’s ‘19 non-PP brakes are completely inadequate, particularly in back. They are non-vented skinny pie plates. I didn’t see any rear upgrades on any sites, so I’m going to go with PP rotors and calipers in back, and leave the fronts with the 4-pistons until I upgrade his wheels to 19”. He’ll only be doing autocross for a while, and my daughter will drive it on road course but she’s driving at 6/10 so should be fine. Planning on G-Loc R-10 all around. But IMO, you will want at least R-12 in front. If you are a novice, this should be fine until they wear.
For fronts you should get the 6-piston Brembos. LMR has them for $1100 right now. On my car I use OEM rotors. But I’m low-intermediate level, not as fast as some the others on this site so less heat going into them. I should probably upgrade in the near future. The OEMs are just so darn affordable.
Use good brake fluid, like Motul RB660.
 
Hey guys,

I have a 17 5.0 non-Performance Pack. I am looking to upgrade my brakes and I need some advice. I am new to tracking my car so sorry in advance for some stupid questions. I will be installing the SS lines and doing a flush with Motul RBF600. So, I am looking to upgrade the rotors and the pads now. Right now, I am not looking to do the Brembo 6 pot conversion. Maybe down the line. I don't have track tires yet, I am on Michellin. PS4S.

1. What are the choices for rotors? I don't want to spend big on stuff like 2 piece girodisc yet. Maybe, down the line. I read that I must avoid drilled. Slotted ok but not preferred. But preferably get a high-quality OEM style blank. What are the choices for high-quality blanks? Something that's great bang for the buck without sacrificing performance?
I read that centric blanks are good for the money. Do they perform better than OEM rotor or are they just good replacement rotor for the track that people don't mind burning through? What are the actual performance advantages of the Centric premium over the centric standard?

Are these the ones I should be getting? the 121.xxxxxx



2. Pads wise. I am considering G-Loc. I read that they're good for performance, good temp range and are pretty friendly on rotors. Should I run a R10 front /R8 rear setup or a R12/R10 set up? Do I need to run a more aggressive set up like the R12/R10 as a first-timer?

3. I plan on switching to race pads prior to the event. Can I put my old OEM street pad back on the car after the event? Will it mess up the new rotor since it has been bedded with the new race pads material? Or, do I need to get a new pad like the G-Loc GS1 (street pad) in order to not mess up the rotor? And then I keep switching off between the track and street pad as needed. If I need the G Loc GS1, do I run that front and rear?

4. If I drive a few hours to the track in race pads, thats ok right? As long as I don't step on the brakes hard until they're warm?

Quote Reply
With your tires and ability stick with R10/R8. I have pulled over 1.4g's braking into turn 1 at Daytona with them for 3 days in a row. That was on a 300TW tire. They will put you through the windshield on the street at will, activate ABS at will. I drive with them on the street all the time, for the last 6 years, very manageable, no need to make more work and expense for yourself. R12's are way too aggressive for that tire at your level.

Keep an eye out for other members selling take offs...

Don't waste money on cheap rotors, buy the Ford OEM blanks. The metallurgy is questionable in the Lower cost units and do not play well on track with racing pads. These are the only rotors you want to run on track unless you move to a Girodisc type rotor. Calipers and be bought new from rock as well for under $450 for the pair.

Screenshot_20221117-110118_Chrome.jpg
 
With your tires and ability stick with R10/R8. I have pulled over 1.4g's braking into turn 1 at Daytona with them for 3 days in a row. That was on a 300TW tire. They will put you through the windshield on the street at will, activate ABS at will. I drive with them on the street all the time, for the last 6 years, very manageable, no need to make more work and expense for yourself. R12's are way too aggressive for that tire at your level.

Keep an eye out for other members selling take offs...

Don't waste money on cheap rotors, buy the Ford OEM blanks. The metallurgy is questionable in the Lower cost units and do not play well on track with racing pads. These are the only rotors you want to run on track unless you move to a Girodisc type rotor. Calipers and be bought new from rock as well for under $450 for the pair.

View attachment 81137
Cheap blanks you say? Whats wrong with aftermarket rotors??

junk.jpg
 

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