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Not to mention that awesome feeling at WOT beyond about 6700-6800 when it seems to really kick on back.
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Build a better BOSS Engine
- Thread starterpufferfish
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #42
pufferfish
Supporting Vendor
I knew someone would step up with the gt vs boss intake debate! I am really on the fence. I have both intakes, so there is no additional cost to me. the CJ is a non-starter for cost, availability (of the intake and the CAI), as well as it needs larger cams to shine.
i have had the boss intake on 3 times in the past year. granted it was on a gt heads and cams, but I keep coming back to the gt intake because it has offered better streetability and, believe it or not, better 1/4 mile times. i don't care to make the best dyno numbers. i want the best useable power. i was also chasing some tuning problems with the boss, which may be where Shaun can help out.
another area i am concerned with is modification points adders for TT. i want to stay in TTB if i can.
but, i will be keeping the boss intake handy and possibly having tunes done for both and see who comes out the winner. it would be cool to swap them out at the track and see which one performs best!
i have had the boss intake on 3 times in the past year. granted it was on a gt heads and cams, but I keep coming back to the gt intake because it has offered better streetability and, believe it or not, better 1/4 mile times. i don't care to make the best dyno numbers. i want the best useable power. i was also chasing some tuning problems with the boss, which may be where Shaun can help out.
another area i am concerned with is modification points adders for TT. i want to stay in TTB if i can.
but, i will be keeping the boss intake handy and possibly having tunes done for both and see who comes out the winner. it would be cool to swap them out at the track and see which one performs best!
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I want to know how that new clutch gets on. I have been looking at switching the clutch out once it starts to go.
- Thread starter
- #44
pufferfish
Supporting Vendor
well, no parts are coming today, so no progress will be made over the weekend :'( it all came down to the 1 piston not showing up at Tousley yesterday. If only I had not dropped that piston! FUUUDDGE!
Grant 302
basic and well known psychic
See if somebody could send you the piston from their Track Attack 'trophy'...
- Thread starter
- #47
pufferfish
Supporting Vendor
ha! I should have asked 8 people!...well, 9 just to be safeGrant 302 said:
- Thread starter
- #48
pufferfish
Supporting Vendor
I won't get my replacement parts until Wednesday, but I can't get my "post whoring" done without something soooo...
new 3-core mishimoto
I got the mishi because 1) its got a lifetime warranty and good reputation 2) I can sell them, so if its turns out to be all that and a bag of chips, I will offer it up on the site.
for that matter, I can sell spec clutches, so if the spec turns out fantastically, I will offer them as well.
something I can't get is aeroforce gauges, but I love the capabilities of them more than analog gauges. so, I bought 2. 1 will monitor oil temps and pressure with their sending units and the other will monitor whatever I want to pull from the PCM. I struggled with what to put them in. I don't like the jetsons individual bubble a-pillar pod setup. the gauges sit too much in my viewing area. on left hand turns on track, I need all the visibility I can get. so, I ended up with the LS pod in the middle of the dash. I don't like the idea of cutting my dash pad, but I hope to figure something out when the time comes.
as you can see, I filled the middle spot with the ford racing performance meter. its silly, I know, but it beats a volt gauge! it helps I got a killer deal on it. turns out I can get Autometer gauges through my warehouse and the performance meter is made by autometer!
new 3-core mishimoto
I got the mishi because 1) its got a lifetime warranty and good reputation 2) I can sell them, so if its turns out to be all that and a bag of chips, I will offer it up on the site.
for that matter, I can sell spec clutches, so if the spec turns out fantastically, I will offer them as well.
something I can't get is aeroforce gauges, but I love the capabilities of them more than analog gauges. so, I bought 2. 1 will monitor oil temps and pressure with their sending units and the other will monitor whatever I want to pull from the PCM. I struggled with what to put them in. I don't like the jetsons individual bubble a-pillar pod setup. the gauges sit too much in my viewing area. on left hand turns on track, I need all the visibility I can get. so, I ended up with the LS pod in the middle of the dash. I don't like the idea of cutting my dash pad, but I hope to figure something out when the time comes.
as you can see, I filled the middle spot with the ford racing performance meter. its silly, I know, but it beats a volt gauge! it helps I got a killer deal on it. turns out I can get Autometer gauges through my warehouse and the performance meter is made by autometer!
- Thread starter
- #49
pufferfish
Supporting Vendor
ok, I finally got all the right parts and got to put her together over the weekend!!
first I installed the main bearings, dropped a strip of plastigage down on each bearing, dropped the crank in and buttoned down the main caps to the proper torque spec. I then removed the caps and crank to check the plastigage "mush width" against their chart. on the money for clearance! so, I reassembled with assembly lube and checked to make sure my endplay was within tolerance.
then I added the piston/rod assemblies and double checking all my rings were facing right side up and verifying the top and second ring ends were opposing each other (180 degrees apart). then I added the head studs and gaskets. I just love how a short block looks with head studs! just looks like it means business!
next I put the heads on. in a "DOH!" moment, I realized the previously installed cams had to come out to gain clear access to the head studs. the real fun was in getting the whole array of timing gear in and properly set. I didn't take any pictures of this, as it was a very oily operation and I didn't want to touch my iphone until it was done...then I forgot to get a pic before putting the timing cover on...then I got excited about seeing my big shiny oil pan on, so I missed another photo op.
before buttoning up the oil pan, I decided to check clearance between the bottom of the moroso pan and the factory pick up tube. I love play-doh!
hey, look what I found! this is a sensor that was transferred from the factory pan. and it has a harness that plugs into it that comes off the main engine harness.
any guesses what this is? yeah, its a LOW OIL SENSOR! if you were prevy to the original discussion about the demise of my engine, it should trouble you to see this sensor and know it was actually on my original engine. not one person from ford or the dealer would admit it actually existed! now I wonder why it never gave me a warning that I was down 5 friggin quarts?!
moving on, I installed the MMR head cooling mod. pretty easy, but the crank trigger must be installed and wired before putting the passenger side piece on. hope I never have to replace that sensor!
at the request of the mechanic installing this engine, I did not install the intake, although I did place it on there so I could verify the harness was being run correctly. he also said to leave the flywheel and clutch off, so I just boxed them up. but before I did that, I wanted to verify I got the right clutch disc. I verified the splines were the same. when I did that, I noticed a rather significant difference between the stock clutch and the Spec Stage 1...the friction surface is really small on the stocker!
STOCK:
SPEC(with flywheel behind it, just to be clear):
so, I have no doubt I will have much better holding power! I just hope there isn't too much additional pedal effort over stock.
well, she is finally done! I loaded her onto the trailer and delivered her to koons ford this morning.
they tell me they expect to be able to fire her up for the first time late Friday or Saturday morning. they offered to call me before they do so and give me an opportunity to be there when it all happens. I can't wait!
first I installed the main bearings, dropped a strip of plastigage down on each bearing, dropped the crank in and buttoned down the main caps to the proper torque spec. I then removed the caps and crank to check the plastigage "mush width" against their chart. on the money for clearance! so, I reassembled with assembly lube and checked to make sure my endplay was within tolerance.
then I added the piston/rod assemblies and double checking all my rings were facing right side up and verifying the top and second ring ends were opposing each other (180 degrees apart). then I added the head studs and gaskets. I just love how a short block looks with head studs! just looks like it means business!
next I put the heads on. in a "DOH!" moment, I realized the previously installed cams had to come out to gain clear access to the head studs. the real fun was in getting the whole array of timing gear in and properly set. I didn't take any pictures of this, as it was a very oily operation and I didn't want to touch my iphone until it was done...then I forgot to get a pic before putting the timing cover on...then I got excited about seeing my big shiny oil pan on, so I missed another photo op.
before buttoning up the oil pan, I decided to check clearance between the bottom of the moroso pan and the factory pick up tube. I love play-doh!
hey, look what I found! this is a sensor that was transferred from the factory pan. and it has a harness that plugs into it that comes off the main engine harness.
any guesses what this is? yeah, its a LOW OIL SENSOR! if you were prevy to the original discussion about the demise of my engine, it should trouble you to see this sensor and know it was actually on my original engine. not one person from ford or the dealer would admit it actually existed! now I wonder why it never gave me a warning that I was down 5 friggin quarts?!
moving on, I installed the MMR head cooling mod. pretty easy, but the crank trigger must be installed and wired before putting the passenger side piece on. hope I never have to replace that sensor!
at the request of the mechanic installing this engine, I did not install the intake, although I did place it on there so I could verify the harness was being run correctly. he also said to leave the flywheel and clutch off, so I just boxed them up. but before I did that, I wanted to verify I got the right clutch disc. I verified the splines were the same. when I did that, I noticed a rather significant difference between the stock clutch and the Spec Stage 1...the friction surface is really small on the stocker!
STOCK:
SPEC(with flywheel behind it, just to be clear):
so, I have no doubt I will have much better holding power! I just hope there isn't too much additional pedal effort over stock.
well, she is finally done! I loaded her onto the trailer and delivered her to koons ford this morning.
they tell me they expect to be able to fire her up for the first time late Friday or Saturday morning. they offered to call me before they do so and give me an opportunity to be there when it all happens. I can't wait!
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Looking good, hopefully they can get it done by Friday.
- Thread starter
- #51
pufferfish
Supporting Vendor
that would be awesome, but I won't hold my breath for it.Brandon302 said:
also, I came to the realization that my thread title isn't quite accurate. I didn't necessarily build a "better" boss engine. in fact, the vast majority of it is factory boss. The "better" is really only the billet oil pump gears, CJ pulse ring, head cooling mod, big road race oil pan and the aluminum flywheel and stage 1 clutch.
all of these things are adders to any engine, so its technically just a regular boss engine with good surrounding parts....parts that will definitely prove their worth under the high stress conditions of the track environment!
You're almost there!
Looking good Steve. Wow yours almost looks like this McLaren 12C. ;D
- Thread starter
- #54
pufferfish
Supporting Vendor
yah, almost! so, I had to familiarize myself with that McLaren piece of art and I have to say, "almost" is a big stretch!
3.8L TT v8 with 737hp/538tq with a twin clutch 7 speed. holy shnikeys!
but, one odd bit...that 3.8L has 93mm bores (we have 92.2mm), so the stroke is a rather small 70mm (vs the boss' 92.7mm)! you would think with such a small swing on the crank, you could spin to 10-12k, right? nope, 8500 redline! huh? the boss factory redline may be 7500, but they do very well to spin to 8200. must be a lot of safety factor or they dumbed down that IRL engine, as they are limited (by the league) to 10,300.
3.8L TT v8 with 737hp/538tq with a twin clutch 7 speed. holy shnikeys!
but, one odd bit...that 3.8L has 93mm bores (we have 92.2mm), so the stroke is a rather small 70mm (vs the boss' 92.7mm)! you would think with such a small swing on the crank, you could spin to 10-12k, right? nope, 8500 redline! huh? the boss factory redline may be 7500, but they do very well to spin to 8200. must be a lot of safety factor or they dumbed down that IRL engine, as they are limited (by the league) to 10,300.
Sorry to sidetrack you, but as someone with a GT I'd like to know what happened to the motor and what was the warranty issue? Thanks,
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pufferfish said:
More even than that, the 302S I believe is redlined at 9k.
- Thread starter
- #57
pufferfish
Supporting Vendor
cosm3os said:
long story short....if you don't recognize you are chugging oil at an astonishing rate, you are fed to the wolves. there is a low oil level sensor, which does squat. there is an oil pressure switch that is great after you've already spun bearings. the dipstick will also give false readings, so there's just no winning. apparently the only fool proof method is to drain your oil and measure :
Got it--so fill til the oil comes out the dipstick tube before each session.
Brandon302 said:
7800 on the S.
cosm3os said:
lol.
pufferfish is right though, the dipstick gives shiznit for readings. I get oil slathered all up and down the dipstick (a few inches above the "max" mark) every time I check unless I leave it overnight. When my car went limp last time out at the track, I thought I lost a main bearing (could be possible still--we'll see after a new x-pipe and o2 sensor go in)
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