Building a 2020 10 spd. Ecoboost for racing. Inputs?

[bob]

For others out there I found out whiteline makes generic endlinks in many inch ranges. Why FP has weird bar end angles well...its Ford

 

[ChuckBilodeau]

Chuck,


I'm putting in the Ford performance swaybars. Looks like you have the blue ford racing rear swaybar. I can't get mine to fit with the MCS shocks and adjustable endlinks I have. Do you have a picture for what you used? What endlinks do you have. I think mine need to be longer than stock and the end of the bar moved very close to the spring. With bar end of endlink installed the spring hits the head or the threaded part of the endlink. How did you solve this? Also the middle of the bar articulates pretty close to the front of the tire well and can squeeze diff cooler lines if the routing is just so. Have you checked yours?

I also have the FP sway Bar, and I have the same issue with the links. The only position that fits if the stiffest. I just cut the part for the softest setting. I had the OEM links, but I just ordered the SPL, not sure they would have worked anyway on the soft setting. So not solved yet. But the way I used to race my BMWs 10 years ago was with relatively soft springs and stiffer sway bars. I generally dont like a super stiff car, but I also want to prevent excessive roll. i'll do some testing in the spring to find the sweet spot.

Yeah, it seemed fine when I installed it, but i'll check again next weekend, i'll post some pics.

 

[ChuckBilodeau]

Also, Lots of guys run the FP front bar and PP1 soft rear bar. I think it is because of chassis rake that they like this combo. Most people measure rake at the end of wheel to the lip of the fender for about 1/2" rake. I measure from bottom of frame rail not including the pinchweld for target of 1.4" to 1/2" rake there. After I set my rake at the frame the rake at the fender lip is actually negative rake. My way would make sense because then the thicker rear FP bar causing oversteer at higher rear of car is compensated for because my way the rear of car is much lower to counter the OS of a heavier rear bar. What do you think of that?

I'll try to get the car on a setup pad to get a proper alignment and setup, right now it was more eyeballing it on the height, and I have yet to do a corner weight. But like I said, I generally like a softer car to be able to play with the balance on power and brakes and to have a car that car absorb speed bumps. I might change my mind, I am just getting back into it after a 10 year break. I had always been a very fast driver but because i'm no pro and I dont spend endless hours testing stuff, i've never been that good a setting up a car, I always tried my best with what I had.

 

[bob]

I have always relied on the kindness of strangers running the same car as to my setup. I just drove. Now no one around me racing the s550 especially A10 so I'm forced to develop. It is a real pain and costly. Stuff adds up like buying standard rear endlinks and then dumpping them for more. Same with more spacers. And my destruction of tires has been impressive.

 

[ChuckBilodeau]

I have always relied on the kindness of strangers running the same car as to my setup. I just drove. Now no one around me racing the s550 especially A10 so I'm forced to develop. It is a real pain and costly. Stuff adds up like buying standard rear endlinks and then dumpping them for more. Same with more spacers. And my destruction of tires has been impressive.

Well, we'll help each other as much as we can. As soon as I hit the track i'll make sure to give you some feedback. Please do the same! Lots of trial and error for me too, but I learn a lot here.

have you put your car on a proper setup pad for corner weight and alignement?

 

[bob]

Well, we'll help each other as much as we can. As soon as I hit the track i'll make sure to give you some feedback. Please do the same! Lots of trial and error for me too, but I learn a lot here.

have you put your car on a proper setup pad for corner weight and alignement?

Yes. This is the 2nd time scaling the chassis and refining ride height. I have run about 6 race weekends and constantly developing and learning the chassis.

 

[bob]

I'll test with the new bars and then tweek rake if my guess isn't good and bars too since they have 2 setting front and 2 on rear. So lots of devoping right there and I haven't got to shock adjustments yet.

 

[ChuckBilodeau]

Yes. This is the 2nd time scaling the chassis and refining ride height. I have run about 6 race weekends and constantly developing and learning the chassis.

That is WITHOUT driver?!

Wow my goal is 3,300 with driver, I guess it's going to be impossible.

 

[Scootsmcgreggor]

That is WITHOUT driver?!

Wow my goal is 3,300 with driver, I guess it's going to be impossible.

Depends on what you want to do. PAE (site sponsor) posted a bit ago a gt350 they built that was 27XXlbs dry.

 

[bob]

That is WITHOUT driver?!

Wow my goal is 3,300 with driver, I guess it's going to be impossible.

No with driver and 50% fuel load min weight off track 3600 by rules

 

[Mark Bedel]

Perfect, i’ll do that asap!

in the mean time,I notched a little metal lip on the subframe to give the top hose a little extra clearance, and some peace of mind. The diff is not mounted 100% solid so there is still a little bit of movement. It gave me a good 1/2 - 3/4 inch clearance.

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Chuck, everything seem straight forward with wiring the pump and fan? Where did you spice everything in?

 

[ChuckBilodeau]

Ok a few quick updates. More to come

Did brake pedal recall, so I enlarged the brake pedal at the same time. The oem pedal is too far from the gas pedal for my taste and lacks grip. I used skateboard grip tape:

I also a added a small lexan window to somehow help with the aero a bit...

I also added a proper radio. Man these thing weight a ton!!

 

[ChuckBilodeau]

More updates!

Did some work on the front fenders in an attempt to help 3 issues I had with the car. In theory, these louvers from race louvers will help all 3:

- Help the front downforce
- Help with cooling the engine
- Help with cooling the brakes

I'll make the hole in the rear of the fender liner and cover it with a aluminium grille. if it does not help anything, well at least it will look kinda cool.

 

[Ewheels]

More updates!

Did some work on the front fenders in an attempt to help 3 issues I had with the car. In theory, these louvers from race louvers will help all 3:

- Help the front downforce
- Help with cooling the engine
- Help with cooling the brakes

I'll make the hole in the rear of the fender liner and cover it with a aluminium grille. if it does not help anything, well at least it will look kinda cool.

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Oh man, those look so good painted! Did you have them painted to factory paint code? I'm worried the colors would be slightly off and end up looking worse than just black but they look amazing in these pictures

 

[ChuckBilodeau]

Oh man, those look so good painted! Did you have them painted to factory paint code? I'm worried the colors would be slightly off and end up looking worse than just black but they look amazing in these pictures

I just picked up a can of factory colormatch paint at my auto parts store. The match is just perfect.... for a race car! When I get the thing all stickered up they're going to blend in, that's what I was going for.

 

[Ewheels]

I just picked up a can of factory colormatch paint at my auto parts store. The match is just perfect.... for a race car! When I get the thing all stickered up they're going to blend in, that's what I was going for.

Good to hear.
The OCD side of me says "nah, just go black. The slightly off shades of orange will look worse." But on the other hand, body color paint makes it look factory.

I think I'm gonna paint them body color; it looks so good

 

[blacksheep-1]

race car paint, looks good at 130 mph. Seriously, I've done it in PWC with a rattle can

 

[ChrisM]

Nailed it.

 

[Scootsmcgreggor]

Looks great Chuck.

Really curious to hear some real world feedback on these vents. Information seems sparse.

Help me understand: how do fender vents in theory help with engine cooling? This would imply that relatively high pressure in the fender well is backing up into the engine bay? How is that (or through where)? Seems with a ducted radiator the migration of air between the engine bay and wheel well would be pretty minimal?

 

[blacksheep-1]

Looks great Chuck.

Really curious to hear some real world feedback on these vents. Information seems sparse.

Help me understand: how do fender vents in theory help with engine cooling? This would imply that relatively high pressure in the fender well is backing up into the engine bay? How is that (or through where)? Seems with a ducted radiator the migration of air between the engine bay and wheel well would be pretty minimal?

Back in my 56 Chevy drag racing days, I removed the inner fender panels to save about 150 pounds, worst thing I ever did, the car literally "floated" on the big end, it was really sketchy and hard to control. In my nearer years, a trick with the MGs were to vent behind the front wheels as well, we also did that with the laydown karts, along with rolling the back fender lip. Now running the inner fender should stop most of that, but I don't see where it would hurt to have a little extra "insurance" to make sure the air stayed from in front of the firewall. Now none of this is tunnel based, it might even be wrong, but it makes sense to me. Someone smarter may have to explain it better.