Building and Blueprinting a Road Race Motor (mini-build thread)

Discussion in 'Road Racing Forum' started by captdistraction, Dec 22, 2018.

  1. ddozier

    ddozier TMO Beginner

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    I have a couple of questions about your previous failures, were they valve train related failures and if you don't mind could you give a brief rundown of the probable cause and any steps you have taken to mitigate a future failure.

    I have had my share of top end issues with the GenII and think I have the issues sorted, finally. I am also moving to the Aluminator52XS for my next project car I am building and would like to address any issues prior to putting that motor into service.

    Anyone here know what the limits of the GT350 oil pan and pickup are, I have always run an aftermarket road race pan on all my motors in the past but several people have advised to keep the GT350 pan setup as there would be little to no gain in making the change to the Moroso or Canton pan over the OEM pan. My gut tells me to bite the bullet and do a drysump on this setup but that really complicates things as far as packaging and budget.

    Any input would be appreciated.

    Dave
     
  2. Grant 302

    Grant 302 OPM Spent: $587,402 Moderator

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    Not to speak for Chris, but you'd need to go through years of threads to get it all. I've been following along through that time and it would be unreasonable or unrealistic to go through it all again to summarize it here. My suggestion is to go through his build thread or go through his post history to find it.

    @captdistraction ...forgive me if I am incorrect in my assessment!
     
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  3. captdistraction

    captdistraction I am the breaker of things

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    concur. @ddozier I'll PM you with some thoughts, but most of my failures have been related to the builds themselves. 1 Tuning related failure (oem), 3 builder related failures (MMR), 1 questionable failure (FRPP), and then one motor that made it through :). I'll cover the oil pan stuff here in a post. I'm way overdue for two of the updates, I'm authoring them now (Build Parts Selection and Engine block measurements).
     
  4. Mad Hatter

    Mad Hatter Gotta go Faster

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    Now more then ever "tuned" in to your build!!
     
  5. OCPONY

    OCPONY TMO Intermediate

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    [QUOTE="

    I have had my share of top end issues with the GenII and think I have the issues sorted, finally. I am also moving to the Aluminator52XS for my next project car I am building and would like to address any issues prior to putting that motor into service.

    Anyone here know what the limits of the GT350 oil pan and pickup are, I have always run an aftermarket road race pan on all my motors in the past but several people have advised to keep the GT350 pan setup as there would be little to no gain in making the change to the Moroso or Canton pan over the OEM pan. My gut tells me to bite the bullet and do a drysump on this setup but that really complicates things as far as packaging and budget.

    Any input would be appreciated.

    Dave[/QUOTE]


    I have been running the GT350 oil Pan without any issues for over two seasons..Rd Course hotlaps on Level tracks like LVMS Outer to Banked tracks at PPIR. I autoX, and Speedstop it while hitting 8200 rev limit in 1st and 2nd gear. Pan and windage tray weighs only 7.5 pounds.
    My 5.2 Voodoo with CPC makes 530 SAE whp and has lots of torque down low...400+ wheel torque at 3100 rpm to 6900rpm. Has 29K miles on it with at least 1/3 being on track. 93 tune and E85 for track use. Still going strong but I am starting to build Build another one with improved heads work, upgrade valve springs and aftermarket pistons and rods this time. trying for 13:1...and 575 whp and still very durable and reliable on track and street.
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2019
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  6. Mad Hatter

    Mad Hatter Gotta go Faster

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    Just to make sure? The Boss forged Crankshaft is part number M-6303-M50B? or FR3Z-6303-C? Or are they the same?? they have a 100 buck price difference for some reason......
     
  7. Grant 302

    Grant 302 OPM Spent: $587,402 Moderator

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    FR3Z-6303-C seems to be the updated part also listed for the newer Gen2 engines.
    M-6303-M50B sounds like the original Boss part number and does not appear to have a 'C' coded update.

    $208 on sale at tasca:
    https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-crankshaft-fr3z6303c

    I'd use the newer part for anything but a 'numbers matching' build. Especially for the cost savings. Newer cranks seem to be fine.
     
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  8. Mad Hatter

    Mad Hatter Gotta go Faster

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    Thanks.... Since I do not trust local machine shops..... If my crank is not at STD then I'll get a new one from tasca.
     
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  9. captdistraction

    captdistraction I am the breaker of things

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