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152
120
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Greenbrier, TN
more accolades to you all. I ordered a trans and rear diff. Fluid Kit from Optimum Performance and IMMEDIATELY noticed better shifting. It’s much less “notchey“ if That’s even a real word.
 
152
120
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Greenbrier, TN
OK, can we revisit this post for a minute.
Now I’ve done a dozen track days with this car. What parts & pieces should be getting more attention when inspecting for wear. I’m wondering if there are any parts on the s550 that I should pay Special attention to when tracking that I normally wouldn’t think about? As always, Thanks.
 
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343
300
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Bulgaria
OK, can we revisit this post for a minute.
Now I’ve done a dozen track days with this car. What parts & pieces should be getting more attention when inspecting for wear. I’m wondering if there are any parts on the s550 that I should pay Special attention to when tracking that I normally wouldn’t think about? As always, Thanks.
Wheel hubs for sure check them regularly for play especially rear left one. Differential flange is also a good idea to be checked for play from time to time. MT82 should be monitored for oil leaks as well. Monitor also Header bolts, Fuel Lines, Oil Lines, Radiator lines, Water Lines. Front Suspension: K-Member Bolts, Control Arm bolts, Steering rack bolts, Steering shaft bolts. Rear Suspension: Upper CA Bolts, Lower CA Bolts, Clocking IRS Bushings. Brakes: Calliper bolts, brake lines (in fact stainless steel brake lines are a must). Wheel lug nuts tighten to 150 ft-lbs between sessions this will extend life of the hubs especially important in the rear.

So far on my track car following things broke needed fixing:

MT82 had an oil leak.
A lot of wheel hubs especially rear left one.
Rear left half shaft was replaced as well.
Lug nuts hats because of often wheels replacement. Waiting for new lug nuts not OEM.
Passenger side exhaust pipe broke before the resonator (I blame a stone for this though).
Rear swaybar bushings (because of different front swaybar) this is a consumable though.

I have around 600 track miles with my car. But I still think it's reliable car. Though it has a lot of issues for a track car.
 

I went with a 4 piston kit with 15" drilled rotors (which I have not been overly impressed with)


Which one? The GT350 OEM or Wilwoods?

Did you do any modifications to the master cylinder and/or brake bias? I would imagine a larger caliper in the back won't do much, especially without proper balancing of the bias and hydraulics.
 
152
120
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Greenbrier, TN
Which one? The GT350 OEM or Wilwoods?

Did you do any modifications to the master cylinder and/or brake bias? I would imagine a larger caliper in the back won't do much, especially without proper balancing of the bias and hydraulics.
The GT350‘s with a proportioning valve. There are some guys on track that like to lock up and slide the rear to bring it around quicker. it’s great for that but I was just hoping to take some load off the fronts. To me though, it really didn’t feel much different than with the stock PP brakes.
 

Norm Peterson

Corner Barstool Sitter
939
712
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
a few miles east of Philly
The GT350‘s with a proportioning valve. There are some guys on track that like to lock up and slide the rear to bring it around quicker. it’s great for that but I was just hoping to take some load off the fronts. To me though, it really didn’t feel much different than with the stock PP brakes.
The harder you brake (deceleration g's here), the less rear brake you'll want/need. Stronger deceleration = more load transfer off of the rear tires.

ABS can accommodate at least some of this, but it's probably best to get the basic brake balance dialed in as closely to your max-braking needs first. Staggering your pad choices is probably the easiest way, with pads of slightly lower 'mu' out back. Fine-tune from there with that adjustable prop-valve.


Norm
 
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