S197 3V 2007 Mustang GT Build Thread Profile - S197 Mustangs

[ChrisM]

Well, I'll tell ya....
I made 700 rwhp with my stroked and blown 3 valve and it flat hauls the mail.
BUT, it cost a mint to do it. The Coyote motor came out just as I was finishing my build.
Lousey timing, I know. I spent 4000.00 on a killer set of stage 3 CNC ported heads that are as awesome as they come.....and they don't flow all that much more than a set of stock Coyote heads. That's how much better a Coyote is.
If you want to make any real horsepower, the smart money is on the Coyote.
Also, the Coyote will live longer. A modified 3V is on the edge around 450 rwhp. After that you need a built short block which will send the cost up over a new Coyote motor from Ford. I love my 3V but, they are obsolete. Besides, who in their right mind needs a 700 hp track day car....?

Wow, that must have been a kick in the nuts for those heads.

I have to remember to slow my roll occasionally because my measly little 300 hp and great suspension seems to be more than enough for the time being. It's always a balancing act with these things.

As far as who needs a 700 hp track day car? Everyone. Everyone needs that in their life. Because racecar.

 

[Fabman]

Careful what you wish for:
I dumped 50 hp and 100 pounds of torque and now it only does this:

 

[ChrisM]

Careful what you wish for:
I dumped 50 hp and 100 pounds of torque and now it only does this:

"Only" he says. Made it look like they were standing still!

 

[ChrisM]

@Fabman Unless I'm mistaken did I see that you have the BMR radiator support? How is that holding up? I believe I saw that you broke one but they sent you an updated version?

 

[Fabman]

@Fabman Unless I'm mistaken did I see that you have the BMR radiator support? How is that holding up? I believe I saw that you broke one but they sent you an updated version?

Yes, the updated one seems to be holding out fine so far.


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[ChrisM]

Yes, the updated one seems to be holding out fine so far.


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That's good to hear. I've always been interested in the BMR k-member and accompanying pieces but most people seem to be wary of putting those pieces on a road course Mustang.

 

[Fabman]

That's good to hear. I've always been interested in the BMR k-member and accompanying pieces but most people seem to be wary of putting those pieces on a road course Mustang.

I know several others who have them and so far so good.
Just those original rad supports were weak but the new ones seem to be alright.

 

[ChrisM]

Got a few more pictures from Thompson and Palmer the past couple months. My wife took the ones at Thompson (without Trackspec louvers) and the ones at Palmer (with Trackspec louvers) came from Clarus Studios.

 

[ChrisM]

Random question: lowered motor mounts. Are these worth anything? I imagine lowering the weight of the engine is probably a good thing, but are there any other pros and cons? I already have some that I installed a long time ago to make use of the stiffer bushings, but didn't really know what I was doing when I bought them.

 

[Fabman]

Random question: lowered motor mounts. Are these worth anything? I imagine lowering the weight of the engine is probably a good thing, but are there any other pros and cons? I already have some that I installed a long time ago to make use of the stiffer bushings, but didn't really know what I was doing when I bought them.

As long as everything clears (headers etc.) I know of no downside to lowering the motor as long as you don't get carried away with it. I'm 1/2" lowered and no ill effects that I am aware of. Too much more and headers etc start hitting things including the ground. At that point, you are better off to leave the motor higher and lower the whole car instead (which is a greater benefit) and correcting the suspension geometry for the new lower ride height. Ideally you build a car with a ride height in mind and correct all the suspension geometry to work at that height. Then lower everything else that you can. If you have to build custom headers, then you do. But that's outside the scope of most weekend racers.

 

[Boone]

When I went to the 3.700 bore Boss block, I used Prothane mounts and shaved 1/2" off them that resulted in 0 clearance issues with my K-member (stock), LT headers (JBA), or oil pan (8 qt. GT500). My hope was to lower the CG of the motor to help offset the iron alloy block weight gain. The net result was similar handling characteristics even though I added some weight to the front end. Obviously, staying with an aluminum block and lowering the engine would result in a positive change by reducing the inertial moment of the CG vs. roll center. The lower moment means less spring is required to limit roll, and you're kidneys don't get beat up on city streets.

If I just said something stupid, will someone here please stop me.

 

[Fabman]

When I went to the 3.700 bore Boss block, I used Prothane mounts and shaved 1/2" off them that resulted in 0 clearance issues with my K-member (stock), LT headers (JBA), or oil pan (8 qt. GT500). My hope was to lower the CG of the motor to help offset the iron alloy block weight gain. The net result was similar handling characteristics even though I added some weight to the front end. Obviously, staying with an aluminum block and lowering the engine would result in a positive change by reducing the inertial moment of the CG vs. roll center. The lower moment means less spring is required to limit roll, and you're kidneys don't get beat up on city streets.

If I just said something stupid, will someone here please stop me.

Perfect

 

[Fabman]

FYI my ARH headers hit the steering column and needed to be clearanced so as with most things automotive, your mileage may vary

 

[ChrisM]

Anyone know what kind of differential bushing the FR500 cars run?

 

[302 Hi Pro]

Anyone know what kind of differential bushing the FR500 cars run?

Good thought as it reminded me to check my UCA & Diff housing bushings.

Fortunately, we have experienced FR500C Owners here to answer your question.

 

[ChrisM]

Would the Multimatic UCA fit on an 05-09 as long as the UCA mount remains unchanged?

 

[ChrisM]

Follow-up to my own question: no, the arms and mounts should never be mixed due to length differences and size differences in the bolts.

Which leads me to ask: can I upgrade my UCA and mount to 2011+ spec then?

Edit: I'm going to answer my own question again and say that yes, I can upgrade to 2011+ specs. I found a post written by "BMRTech" on another forum that explained the differences.

 

[Bjorn Laukenmann]

Hi @ChrisM could you share the post of the BMRTech explaining the difference? Thank you

 

[Norm Peterson]

Got a few more pictures from Thompson and Palmer the past couple months.

Any in-car videos?

Have you been to NJMP lately (it's my home track and I'm kind of curious what kind of lap times you've been able to get there).

I've also thought about getting the later-year UCA and bracket, possibly with the Steeda spherical diff-side joint.


On the subject of wheels, there was something about the CF5's that I was a little uneasy about, so I went with F14's in 18x11.


Norm

 

[ChrisM]

Sorry guys, I've been traveling a bit.

Hi @ChrisM could you share the post of the BMRTech explaining the difference? Thank you

Here's the post!
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/foru...r-control-arm-differences.html#/topics/959194

Any in-car videos?

Have you been to NJMP lately (it's my home track and I'm kind of curious what kind of lap times you've been able to get there).

I've also thought about getting the later-year UCA and bracket, possibly with the Steeda spherical diff-side joint.


On the subject of wheels, there was something about the CF5's that I was a little uneasy about, so I went with F14's in 18x11.


Norm

Norm,

I haven't been in a while. I moved to Japan in August and don't have access to my time sheet right now.

I currently run a BMR arm with a spherical bearing and it's great. No complaints.

I will most likely be getting 18x11 Apex wheels next.