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Camber plates AND adjustment bolts together?

Norm Peterson

Corner Barstool Sitter
Exp. Type
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
a few miles east of Philly
Thanks Norm. I recently did the string method on my '71 Mach 1 and got it pretty close, but I didn't know if that would work with the staggered set up I've got right now.
No reason it wouldn't. Toe is basically a measure of "out-of-parallelness".

The key, of course, is establishing that your strings are at least reasonably close to being parallel to the car's centerline. Equidistant from the right and left side rear wheel flanges (measure front and rear to minimize any rear toe effect) and equidistant from each other behind the car and ahead of it works, but takes iteration.

Last edited:


Cones - not just for ice cream
Exp. Type
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Another old school way of measuring toe is to make a chalk or lumber crayon mark on the front-most tread face of each tire on an axle and measure the distance between them. Then roll the car so the tires rotate 180 degrees and measure the ditance between the marks again (now on the back-most tire tread face). Difference is total toe. You can Google "trammel toe gauge" for more info and a handy tool.
Making it way too complicated. If you are OK with the rear of car alignment then use a L rule cut to the wheel rim and a laser level to measure the camber. Then set camber where you want. Set toe with 2 tapes and 2 toe plates super cheap on Ebay.

Whenever you align you want flat floor which you can determine with aquarium tubing a ruler and bucket of water and level the floor with 1/8th" flooring tiles. You want tires at hot pressures.

If you are not sure of the rear then thrust the rear but using L rule for the rear wheel size beca you are staggered, the same laser level and a ruler on the front hub. Once you zero the thrust check the rear toe adjusts as needed then rear camber. Back is now done and you can align the front. This is an effective 4 wheel alignment that costs very little.

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