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Can we start a Sticky that lists approved fluids for the Boss 302's?

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Air filter Element FA-1897
Cabin Filter - FP53

Oil - (8.5 Quarts (With Filter)
Ford Specs say must meet (WSS-M2C931-B) spec
5w-50
MotorCraft Synthetic
Redline - http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=135&pcid=21>
Oil Filter - FL-500-S

Alternative Oil filters (Please verify any of these before purchasing)
FL-820HP oil filter is a heavy duty/extra pleated/silicone gasket oil filter that fits our motors

MT-82 - Transmission Fluid (2.75 quarts ) (Fill to within 1/8 inch (3 mm) of bottom fill hole.
XT-M5-QS - Stock fluid - http://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/main/product.asp?product=Full%20Synthetic%20Manual%20Transmission%20Fluid&category=Transmission%20Fluid

XT-11-QDC - Current Ford recommended Transmission fluid for MT- 82 - http://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/main/product.asp?product=Dual%20Clutch%20Transmission%20Fluid&category=Transmission%20Fluid
Motorcraft Dual Clutch Transmission Fluid

(Some use Redline MTL 70W80 Synthetic. However, Redline makes no claims of this being a crossover product.)

Rear differiential Fluid (5 pints)
Per manual, does not need to be changed unless there is a leak or submerged under water. Or subjected to high speed or competition use.

For track/Competition use, Ford recommends changing the fluid after the first hour and then after 12 hours.

The manual does state to add 5oz of fluid friction modifier.
Torsen - (Some claim Torsen does not need friction modifier)

Motorcraft SAE 75W-140 High Performance Synthetic Rear Axle Lubricant Part # - XY-75W140-QL Spec# - WSL-M2C192-A

Redline LightWeight ShockProof
http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=43&pcid=8

Brake/Clutch Fluid
The clutch & brakes share the same master cynlinder.

The consensus is for competition/track use, the DOT 3 fluid needs to be placed with DOT 4
BMO users, use some of the following.

Brakes/Clutch Fluids
BMO members us some of the following DOT 4 Fluids.

ATE Blue
ATE Amber
(The ATE fluids are the same but some alternate between the two in order to tell when old fluids are flushed out.)
Methods for service.)
Castrol SRF
Motul 600

Bleeding
Tools
Clutch
Vacuum pump

Mity Vac Automotive Tune-up and Brake Bleeding Kit
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM5952503102P?sid=IDx20070921x00003a&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=00947058000
(I picked up one of the vac's at AutoZone.)

Master Cylinder for Vacuum
http://motiveproducts.3dcartstores.com/Black-Label-GMFord-3-Tab-Adapter-1118_p_105.html

Procedures
http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=925&viewfile=Clutch%20System%20Bleeding.pdf

Flushing (To be fininished)


Transmission
Service Instructions
http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=940&viewfile=Transmission Draining and Filling.pdf

Procedures
Gravity Fill
https://trackmustangsonline.com/boss-how-to/mt82-fluid-change-using-the-gravity-method/msg19051/

I don't have time or the details to finish this out properly (right now) but it would be nice if we had a sticky to share with every anybody that wants to learn how to do this themselves.
 
A couple of notes to help:

- Redline has both Street and Race forumlas in a 50wt. Use what you need :)
- Castrol 5w50 is perhaps the most commonly available motor oil out there.
- K&N and Mobil1 both offer superb oil filters for our motors.
- Redline MTL is battle-tested in competition and well proven in MT-82's.
- Torsen diff does not take friction modifier. I have confirmed this with Torsen personally.
- Castrol SRF and Motul 600 are both excellent DOT4 competition brake fluids.
 
Aren't they all in the owners manual?
 
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5 DOT 0 said:
Aren't they all in the owners manual?
Motocraft recommendations are but not other options that meet specs are not. Plus I'm looking at changing out brake fluid and possibly bleeding clutch. I see the MityVac kit but the cap doesn't fit. I think there is a link somewhere that shows an adapter. Just trying to get everything in one place.

Plus I'll like to add options for extractors for Transmission & Differential.

Finally sometimes you don't always have your manual with you when you're trying to order something. I think it'd be nice to go to a thread that has everything listed at the top, stickied so you don't have to sift multiple threads that always get side tracked trying to figure out what you need.
 

Dvendet

Everyone's entitled to my opinion. ;)
Frosty,

You make some very good points and I believe your suggestion is interesting.
Some tidbits of interest along your line of reasoning I have come across:

Ford has issued a tech service bulletin and is now recommending using dual clutch fluid XT-11-QDC. However, the Boss supplemental owner's guide still indicates using XT-5-QS which I believe is the pre-TSB fluid. Question, does my brand new Boss come from the factory with the dual-clutch fluid or the original specification fluid?

Also, I have researched that Quaker State's Ultimate Synthetic 5W50 meets Ford's spec WSS-M2C931-B for motor oil. I have an inquiry into Quaker State requesting confirmation.
Also, I have confirmed with Castrol that none of their oils complies with this same spec. Additionally Royal Purple does not meet this spec.

I just learned that Ford has updated it's Mustang GT Owners manual. This is the Owners manual that comes with every Boss. Within the past month they started printing the 2nd edition of this manual. Question: How does the 2nd edition differ from the 1st printing?

Also, your reference to the clutch bleeding procedure with the MityVac came from CaliMR. Check with him or his posts. He uses this device to bleed his clutch.

Also, you might want to cite this link to :

https://trackmustangsonline.com/boss-302-technical-forum/mt82-fluid-change-using-the-gravity-method/msg19051/#msg19051

and post this under your suggested ""procedures".

I'll report back what I find out regarding a potential 3rd oil which meets Ford's oil spec.

MMD
 
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Thanks,

MakeMyDay. You hit it, I'd like to just just list things that meet specs and have the sticky updated as things change. This isn't a thread to debate whether any type of oil is good enough. It's just options that meet Ford specs so readers have something to choose from that should cause no warranty issues.

If we have things that may not meet spec but have been tested by members with analysis reports or such maybe we add them.

Hopefully the thread doesn't turn into debate. Plus anybody that finds new products can add them and moderators or myself can add the products to the top so nobody has to read through the entire thread to get the info they need.
 
You might want to mention that ATE Super Blue and Amber 200 are the same fluid, but one has blue dye.

Handy to swap between the two each time to make it easy to know when it is all out. The blue will stain the lines. And it is not legal in street cars in Florida and possibly other states (unless the law has changed). There are rumors of ATE turning to gel and plugging calipers, but I have only heard them from Porsche people. Motul and other "race" Dot 4 fluids usually need to be flushed more often than ATE, which I have used for 2 seasons with no issues in my race car with just bleeds, no full flushes. YMMV though. I left some Super Blue in a bottle that was open to the air on accident, forgot to seal it and take it to the chemical dump, and it turned into rubber... not sure if other fluids do that.


I think that GM/Ford connector is the right one for the clutch bleed, the regular Ford one will not work. I posted the part number in the other thread if you want to double check.
 
I haven't done it on this car, but the Mightvac is a cheap option and it has a separator container so you don't suck it into the mechanism. The container is pretty small, and the small lines would take quite a while and a lot of pumping. There are cheap fluid pumps you can get at auto parts stores, under $10, that you just throw away each time as they get the fluid in them and can't really be cleaned.
 
CaliMR said:
You might want to mention that ATE Super Blue and Amber 200 are the same fluid, but one has blue dye.

Handy to swap between the two each time to make it easy to know when it is all out. The blue will stain the lines. And it is not legal in street cars in Florida and possibly other states (unless the law has changed). There are rumors of ATE turning to gel and plugging calipers, but I have only heard them from Porsche people. Motul and other "race" Dot 4 fluids usually need to be flushed more often than ATE, which I have used for 2 seasons with no issues in my race car with just bleeds, no full flushes. YMMV though. I left some Super Blue in a bottle that was open to the air on accident, forgot to seal it and take it to the chemical dump, and it turned into rubber... not sure if other fluids do that.


I think that GM/Ford connector is the right one for the clutch bleed, the regular Ford one will not work. I posted the part number in the other thread if you want to double check.

I tracked my S2000 quite a bit using ATE Superblue with great success. I noticed a firmer pedal as well.
 

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