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Captdistraction's ST2/GTR build thread

captdistraction

I am the breaker of things
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I will use this thread to chronicle the build progress of my 2011 car into a wheel-to-wheel race car (without a license plate). (JK, I won't copy Drew's thread quite so closely, even if my build will end up being very very similar).

The car's origin was a 401A 2011 Mustang GT with brembos, and its come a very, very long way since then.

The car's body work is that of a 2012 boss 302 with the WC splitter
The car's motor is (currently) a 11.5:1 MMR built coyote with roadrunner heads, cams, intake. 1.75" Longtube headers, JLT cold air, and AED tuned
The suspension is koni yellows, eibach sportline springs and adjustable ARB's, J&M Camber plates, Steeda fLCAs/balljoints, whiteline rlca bracket, j&m polyball lcas, PHB, boss passive diff cooler, 18x10 SVE wheels (19x9.5 on the street currently)
Lots of cooling bits (oil coolers, larger radiator), Tiger hood, steeda shifter, bracket, and whiteline insert, boss brake ducts, boss recaros, steering wheel, shifter/boot, custom gauges, Racecapture pro. McLeod RXT Clutch w/ Aluminum Flywheel, CJ Pulse Ring, YellowBoss 302S Breather System, Roush mufflers, Maximum Motorsports Bumpsteer Kit

The Day 1 of the car:


As it stands today:


Intended competition classes:
NASA ST2 / ProAutosports GTR race classes

I've had some help along the way, the car has been used in commercials/b-roll for eibach, magnaflow, birdseyeproductions (cool burnout video), and most recently I've come to an agreement with Compass Minerals, Ford Racing Schools, Miller Motorsports Park and Adfarm which is really kickstarting the build into a track car. The car is currently being decaled up for a tradeshow where it will be a stand-in for the former Boss-Track-Attack cars that are currently being converted to their Boss302FRS "upgrade" cars. They weren't going to have a car ready in time for the show, so I was able to help out.

The steps from here to raceday are as follows: (and will be documented here)
-Get through tradeshow
-remove motor for rebuild/upgrades/hardening for race use
-remove interior from car, sell off any parts not going into race use
-install Watson Racing roll cage
-install fire system, tow hooks, belts/mounts, racecapture system
-install new/rebuilt motor, refurbished clutch
-dyno for classifications, get tech sticker
-shakedown events
-Go Race!

There's a lot of parts I still have to lock down (and eventually still have to figure out a trailer/truck situation on a limited budget), but some of the parts I'm planning on using:
WC/Watson cage, and related WC/302S safety gear
Sparco Pro-ADV seat (already purchased/installed), Sparco Sprint seat for passenger use on DE/open days (already purchased)
NRG hub, sparco steering wheel
Relay based power disconnect
APR GT250 wing

Stage 2 (once a few races are done)
odyssey lightweight battery
Torsen T2R differential
Watts Link - TBD

I'm completely open to suggestions as to what works, what doesn't work, etc. I hope to finish the build in 6 months, but I also have a wedding I'm planning and I work in an industry where money just doesn't grow on trees, so this build will see a lot of delay due to funds or making choices that gets it to the race, but without the most premiere gear.
 

Tucson 302

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Well first off congrats on the upcoming wedding!

Who are you having put your cage in? I intend on doing the same this summer and there isn't a decent race shop here in Tucson.
 

captdistraction

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I'm still working out the details, there's a few local places here that I just need to consult with. I'll let you know who wins the bid and how it goes
 

DGRacing

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Love the car. Great stance. Of course, its also my favorite color! lol

What's that sideskirt splitter you are using?
 

captdistraction

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So a quick update: the "Phos Boss" #15 made its appearance at the 2015 Commodity Classic (agricultural show) for Compass Minerals and Ford Racing Schools. They were super happy with the car, and its back in my possession now. Weather has slowed progress, but this weekend I plan on pulling the motor, and most of the interior from the console back, and checking the vehicle overall to plan the next steps. When the motor is out, I'm going to drop the pan and check out the setup to see which block I'm going to use (mine or Drew's) to accommodate a rebuild with MMR.

Some pictures can be found on this tumblr: http://phosboss.tumblr.com/?og=1

 

ArizonaBOSS

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Not to steal The Capt's thunder but we yanked his motor this past weekend for a refresh. @Tucson302 popped up to lend a hand as well. ENGINE PULL PARTY!!

Here are some pictures:







Caught me attempting to help under the dash...


@Tucson302 and myself with the freshly dropped lump...


Here is a time-lapse video of the activities:

https://youtu.be/WgKI2KND-Ko
 

superhero

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Great video.....Love it
The guy with the white ball cap must be the shop foreman :eek:.
So.....Is the U code motor going in or just a refresh on the coyote.
 

Tucson 302

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superhero said:
Great video.....Love it
The guy with the white ball cap must be the shop foreman :eek:.
So.....Is the U code motor going in or just a refresh on the coyote.
Yes as the "senior" member of the team I was in charge of nothing, I was merely observing and staying out of the way. Actually I turned a couple of wrenches but the Capt & AZBoss were the brains of the operation, I just wanted to learn what all is involved as I have a similar project I need to do.
 

captdistraction

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Thanks for posting, after having a browser crash 3x while writing an update, I just gave up, lol.

The next step is for me to ship this motor back to MMR for refreshing. I have bare head castings, cams and some other hardware going with it. The spare shortblock stays here and will likely get rebuilt anyways to be sold or used as plan B.
 

captdistraction

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Made some more progress today.

New (to me) lightened steel flywheel arrived, and will be freshening up the RXT clutch and turning this flywheel to mate up fresh. Steeda is sending me some replacement parts for my tri-ax shifter and a new 2-post barton rear bracket has been ordered (my regular one had a LOT of play in it, the bushing was not the correct size). So transmission servicing is all good to go.

I've decided on a custom cage from a local builder who is reputable (and has built a cage for me before), will be nice to have him customize it around my height and preferred seating arrangement. He is (obviously) sure that his build would be nicer than the watson cage, that will be interesting to see the end result.

I'll also order a FRPP aluminum driveshaft, and that should complete any mods before first track day (and some consumables like brake pads, fresh fluids).

On the motor side, I spent some time Sunday tearing down my motor (MMR1000/Boss LB, consumed a lot of oil and needs boss heads replaced due to cam bearing wear). I did find some scratches vertically in the bores in 6,4,7 and 8. Most noticeably in 7 which is inline with the damage done to it before the first rebuild. They went 0.010" over, however I'm not sure what to do next. Tomorrow the motor goes back to them, but if the block needs further overbore, I'm in for those costs, plus new pistons (and even more thin liners). I'm hoping they work something out with me. Would some visable scratches be enough to see consumption? I know when it was originally built and during break in, I kept finding that the oil smelled strongly of gas (and I followed their specified break-in to the letter).

I'm hoping I get the motor squared, I'm tired of being the ass-end of jokes and not trusting something I've invested a lot of money into. Originally, I was pushing to have the car back together (not caged) in time for an April 18th event at Inde Motorsports Ranch; I've decided to skip that and focus on getting the build done right and not stretching myself overly thin (Besides, it was a private track day with "friends", and I'd probably break someone's nose the first time they made a joke about how I showed up without my own car, that horse has been beat beyond death /vent)

I have an option 2 in AZBoss's block which needs a cylinder liner in #8 and potentially an overbore (need to schedule having it looked at soon). Its mostly complete outside two piston assemblies, and anything else needed for refresh. I may pursue getting that one built up here locally and if it doesn't pan out with MMR, put my new boss heads on that motor and just stop worrying about it.

Right now I'm not at the point in the build where I see the light at the end of the tunnel, but some (admittedly uphill and frustrating) progress has been made.

Some random pictures of interest, as no good build post should go without:
http://1drv.ms/1DVzhuC (will continue to update that gallery and this post)
 

captdistraction

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Another weekend, another update:

Started teardown and part-out of the interior and street car bits. Went pretty well, but I completely regret ever using dynamat to calm down the interior of the car.

Where I ended up:


cleaned up engine bay (have ordered the right boss vapor, fuel and vac lines to better remove clutter as well). Should I bother with a stainless clutch line?






I'll need to fab something up for the front radiator blockoffs (for the sides) as I no longer have a condensor. I'm also working on the bypass for the heater core (will cut and join the factory hoses and put a restrictor in there).

I haven't figured out how I want to notch the towers, but shouldn't hurt to cut it some on the inside right? Anyone do it? How thick/hard is that metal?


and the car as it sits, waiting:




My temporary solution for a trunk pop


Some of the bits laying around:

Transmission with adjusted steeda shifter and a dual post barton bracket




The Vic is covered in mustang
 

ArizonaBOSS

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SS clutch line is snake oil, IMO. Spend your money elsewhere.

I'm gonna hog out my strut towers a bit as well once the MCS stuff arrives.
There are two spot-welds on the inside of the tower at the top, I figure to stay inside of those at all points to be safe. I think the process will be simple (if the strut is removed): Pilot then drill two holes through the strut tower to denote the "corner" points of the cut, then dremel + cutoff blade to join those points with each other as well as the strut tower opening itself. Then mask and quick blast of black or red spray paint for the edge to prevent rust.
 

captdistraction

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for the two inboard cuts might as well just use a grinder-cutoff wheel, and use the dremel for the last cut. I just see this metal eating those dremel wheels
 

ArizonaBOSS

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captdistraction said:
for the two inboard cuts might as well just use a grinder-cutoff wheel, and use the dremel for the last cut. I just see this metal eating those dremel wheels
Fair point there. I have about 40 of the dremel wheels left, though :) But I do also have a grinder-cutoff tool :)
 

twistedneck

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ArizonaBOSS said:
SS clutch line is snake oil, IMO. Spend your money elsewhere.

I'm gonna hog out my strut towers a bit as well once the MCS stuff arrives.
There are two spot-welds on the inside of the tower at the top, I figure to stay inside of those at all points to be safe. I think the process will be simple (if the strut is removed): Pilot then drill two holes through the strut tower to denote the "corner" points of the cut, then dremel + cutoff blade to join those points with each other as well as the strut tower opening itself. Then mask and quick blast of black or red spray paint for the edge to prevent rust.
Stupid question, why are you notching out the strut towers? I would not compromise the structural integrity unless i had a cage going in that went all the way through the front. Those are some high stress areas.
 

Roadhouse

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twistedneck said:
Stupid question, why are you notching out the strut towers? I would not compromise the structural integrity unless i had a cage going in that went all the way through the front. Those are some high stress areas.
He is looking for additional camber... There is some extra material there that can be hogged out without comprising the integrity.
 

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