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Car Won't Start After Last Session

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I was at the track today, and after my last 40min session the car wouldn't start!

It basically acted like I hadn't depressed the clutch pedal in. The engine wouldn't turn over, and the starter made no noise, like it wasn't getting any power. The only thing I could hear is a relay click from the passenger foot-well.

So i disconnected the terminals and let the car sit, while I switched to the street tires. Reconnected the terminals and it started. Once I got home, I turned the car off and tried to restart... again nothing.

Any one have any leads or ideas what it could be? ???
 
Grant 302 said:
My first guess is cooked starter. Something not making contact when hot.

Is the clicking when you turn the key? or just in the 'on' position?

The clicking occurs only when turning the key to start the car (the last turn, not sure if that's the "on" position ;D) Also to clarify, the clicking is from the passenger side fuse box, not the starter. I'm assuming this clicking was always there, I just never heard it before, since the starter would usually kick in.

Haven't replaced a starter before. I'm hoping getting access to it isn't difficult and it can be done on jack-stands.
Is there a way to test these starters?
 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
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The starter is fairly easy to remove from jack stands.

Disconnect the battery, remove the starter bolts, 3, and drop the starter enough to remove the wires. Reverse to replace.

This was a very common issue in Chevy big block Vettes, I had two and both would refuse to start when warm/hot.

With the relay clicking, this does remove most other issues.

Bench testing a cold starter will likely not show a problem. Swap starters and be done with it.

Good luck.

Tracy
 

Grant 302

basic and well known psychic
Sounds like everything is normal, except the starter or connection at the starter.

I suspect the clicking in the fusebox is the relay. And since it did re-start after cool-down, that there is no blown fuse.

I can't think of a test for problems when hot, except to run it hot and see if it starts again.

I would check the connections and see if the problem occurs again in normal use, but make sure you park in places that you can easily get push started if need be.

You could just change it for peace-of-mind...and consider adding a heat shield or wrap. I should've also asked if you have long tubes or aftermarket headers.

Removal of a starter shouldn't be that bad. I've only done 4.6L modulars, but everything should be positioned similarly. IIRC the top bolt is the trickiest, just make sure you have at least a couple of extensions like 6" and 3" or maybe two 6" and a u joint.
 
I've had this issue. Turned out to be a bad solder joint on the starter solenoid. It's very close to the headers - the bad joint expanded with heat and the car would not start, until the joint cooled and closed the gap..... took me a couple of weeks to diagnose. Suggest you remove the relay and put a voltmeter across the starter feed terminals -- if this is the issue you'll have less than 6 volts when hot and 12 volts when cold....
 

TMSBOSS

Spending my pension on car parts and track fees.
7,529
5,243
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Illinois
Black Boss said:
I've had this issue. Turned out to be a bad solder joint on the starter solenoid. It's very close to the headers - the bad joint expanded with heat and the car would not start, until the joint cooled and closed the gap..... took me a couple of weeks to diagnose. Suggest you remove the relay and put a voltmeter across the starter feed terminals -- if this is the issue you'll have less than 6 volts when hot and 12 volts when cold....

Did the cable to terminal connection feel loose? Did you replace the cable or re solder?
 
I had the exact same issue several years ago at Road Atlanta on a 1998 Cobra. Starter would not turn the engine over after the last track session - all other electrical system components and health checks checked out OK. The next morning the car started normally and I loaded it on the trailer for the tow home. At home the car started normally to unload it from the trailer. Later after driving the car around town, the car would not start when the car was hot. I removed the starter and saw a similar solder joint failure as in the picture Black Boss posted. I traded in the starter for a new Motorcraft starter at the Ford parts counter. Never saw the problem again after that.
 
Thanks alot guys!

Sounds like I;m having the same symptoms as you've all experienced and described.
Last month I replaced the alternator, this month will be the starter... and a rear axle seal :eek:

Now the search for the best price begins...
 
F.D. Sako said:
Thanks alot guys!

Sounds like I;m having the same symptoms as you've all experienced and described.
Last month I replaced the alternator, this month will be the starter... and a rear axle seal :eek:

Now the search for the best price begins...

Buy a Ford OEM replacement from Rockauto.com. they are usually the cheapest. If you do a Google search there is also a discount code.
 

captdistraction

GrumpyRacer
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also, I had a weird starter issue where it wouldn't start randomly, UNLESS I rolled the car forward somewhat in gear (aka push in neutral, release clutch in first to halt the car). I can't remember what that accomplished, but 3-5x of that before replacing the starter worked every time.

Either way, the units aren't too bad, I think I paid $100 or so to replace it.
 
Thanks for the heads up about RockAuto. They're about $20 cheaper than dealers that provide forum discounts.

I'll let you guys know once I replace the starter.
I may also order the solenoid and see if it fits works with our starters, then I'll have a spare.
 
So, I did a bit of research on aftermarket starters, and noticed that 4.6L and 5.0L (coyote) engines all shared the same aftermarket starter part numbers. Based on that, I went ahead and ordered the PA-9910 solenoid.

Once I removed the starter, I noticed I had the exact issue Nick described, the ignition wire connector solder was cracked.

When I compared the PA and OEM solenoids, I noticed the prong on the PA solenoid was about 2mm longer compared to the OEM unit. I went ahead and installed the PA solenoid anyway just to see if it'd work - and it didn't ::) I think the longer prong is not kicking out the starter gear far enough to catch the flywheel teeth. The starter would just constantly click.

So I soldered the stock solenoid up for now and installed it back up - for now... so far so good ;D
Also... my car didn't have the third, upper, bolt on the starter! This is the second time I'm finding out my car has missing bolts. The first time was the shifter side bracket. Hopefully, the bolts were deemed "unnecessary" by the engineers, and not the guys working on the line or six sigma to save time! :eek:

Comparison pic of the prongs. Noticed how the stock prong is not touching the PA unit
IMAG0773_zpsv33orvzt.jpg

OEM unit soldered up
IMAG0775_zpslkcwhvra.jpg
 

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