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Carbotech brake pads

zzyzx

Steve
299
0
For those of you running Carbotech brake pads on your Boss for track days and/or racing, I'm looking for some info.

It would appear that most of you run XP12s F / XP10s R, which sounds about right.

I've used Carbotechs in the past with great success, but not on the Boss (yet).

Questions:

1. How is dusting, pad life and rotor wear?

2. Where did you buy them and at what price?

2. Do you run them on both the track and street?

3. What are the part numbers?

4. If you ran them, then switched to another brand, why? Just trying to get an idea if you felt there was a better alternative and went with that after running the Carbotechs.

Thanks for any input, guys!
 
Before i start i am running XP10s out back and XP8s in the rear. Mostly cause i am only on street tires.

1. Dusting is pritty bad IMO. Just got done with one day at CMP with about 2 1/2 hours of track time. Wheels almost have a slight brown color to them. 8). With only 2 events on the rotors and pads i can't really say. The front pads look to be about 1/2 done at best. Rears still look solid. I'm running GIRODISC front rotors and the stock rears and like i said i haven't run them enough to observe any wear.

2. Bought them from KNS brake in Raleigh NC. Can't remember price.

2b. For now yes, but that is cause i live on a dirt road and don't have the best space to change them. I have a set of 1521s for the fronts, just have to find time to change them.

3. CT1001s for the fronts and CT1082 rears

4. Still running them, will probably continue to run them after this set wears out.
 

drano38

Wayne
1,130
318
I'm running XP12 front, XP8 rear.
Still undecided on Carbotech, and its the only track pad brand I've used so far.
1. Dusting, pad life--nothing to compare to. Rotor life--DBA4000 fronts cracked before wore down.
2. Direct from Carbotech--Mike Jr. Also have them pre-bed the pads. Ask if they have a discount. I think he took off 10%.
2.b. XP8 stay on back. Swap out fronts to street pads/rotors. I trailer to the track.
3. already answered.
4. I might try Pagid next. Don't know why, but I get pad transfer onto the front rotors. Started with XP10. Mike Jr. said I might be over-temping them. Went to RP2 compound spring '12. Same thing. Stepped up to XP12. Worked great for 3 days at BIR's long course. Then started getting transfer again. The DBA rotor temp paint marks are activated below the max pad temp, so I shouldn't be over temping the pads. I've bedded the rotors/pads, but since I've only bedded a few sets, my technique may not be the best yet.
Here's a pic of the transfer. This is minor. I've had it 2-4 times worse.
20120507175813.jpg
 

pufferfish

Supporting Vendor
1,094
66
Maryland
I have been through nearly every combination of carbotechs. XP12 all around is best for maximum braking at the track. Sucks for street use though.
 

steveespo

Lord knows I'm a Voodoo Child
Moderator
3,752
1,223
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10-20 Years
NY Metro
I've been running XP 10 F RP2 R. Work well for me on track and on the street. I ran a set of XP16/XP12 for a 2 day 6 hour weekend at Summit Shenandoah and just ate them up plus a set of DBA 5000 fronts, they cracked at almost half of the drill holes, that's why I'm gonna run solid slotted rotors next season. Went back to the XP10/RP2 and ran 2 days at Lime Rock, still have half pad life-450 track and 1400 street miles.
Steve
 
My friend's CMC Mustang has XP12 F/R, his 2011 V6 Time Trials car has XP10 F/R and his 24 hour enduro racer has XP10 F/R and he is pretty happy with them. I haven't tried them yet, but he says the biggest downside on the street is the squealing.
 

pufferfish

Supporting Vendor
1,094
66
Maryland
Steveespo, I ran the 16's on front too and after 1 day, heat cracked the hell out of my stock rotors too. So, between the 2 of us, I'd say proof positive that 16's are too hard of a pad.
 
CaliMR said:
My friend's CMC Mustang has XP12 F/R, his 2011 V6 Time Trials car has XP10 F/R and his 24 hour enduro racer has XP10 F/R and he is pretty happy with them. I haven't tried them yet, but he says the biggest downside on the street is the squealing.

He is correct.
 
159
5
Georgia
Smilieboy said:
1. Dusting is pritty bad IMO. Just got done with one day at CMP with about 2 1/2 hours of track time. Wheels almost have a slight brown color to them. 8). With only 2 events on the rotors and pads i can't really say. The front pads look to be about 1/2 done at best. Rears still look solid. I'm running GIRODISC front rotors and the stock rears and like i said i haven't run them enough to observe any wear.

2. Bought them from KNS brake in Raleigh NC. Can't remember price.

2b. For now yes, but that is cause i live on a dirt road and don't have the best space to change them. I have a set of 1521s for the fronts, just have to find time to change them.

3. CT1001s for the fronts and CT1082 rears

4. Still running them, will probably continue to run them after this set wears out.

Very similar response as Smilieboy. CMP is pretty hard on brakes (and tires).

1. The dusting is noticable, but not as bad as Hawks. I am running DBA4000 rotors. I do swap back and forth between these for the track and the oem set up for the street. Doesn't take that long... so the "squeal" is limited to my track days.

2. Bought them directly from Mike Jr. at Carbotech. Paid $222 for the front and $154 for the rear. I need to remember about a discount next time.

3. XP10 - CT1001 on front and XP-8 CT1082 rear.

4. I will evaluate after this upcoming season when I get a few more tracks under my belt. I have noticed the same transfer as drano38 (not quite that bad). With the DBA rotors you have the temp paint and I was well below the max temp for the pad. I was surprised at how well the front brake ducts work with the temps I was seeing.
 
steveespo said:
Surprisingly my car doesn't squeal with the CTs. With Hawk pads very noisy on and off track.
Steve

Oddly enough, the Hawk Blues I run on my other car (switching to Pagids this time because tired of the rusty dust) very rarely squeal on the street. They are actually quieter than the OEM pads on the Boss, which rattle and squeak constantly when not being applied.
 

steveespo

Lord knows I'm a Voodoo Child
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10-20 Years
NY Metro
CaliMR said:
Oddly enough, the Hawk Blues I run on my other car (switching to Pagids this time because tired of the rusty dust) very rarely squeal on the street. They are actually quieter than the OEM pads on the Boss, which rattle and squeak constantly when not being applied.
I think it may have to do with the install, I use Hard brakes plates up front and on front and back I use CRC chemicals disc brake quiet compound at the piston locations on the plates. Helps keep them quiet I guess.
Steve
 
Is that a replacement for the anti-seize or is it in addition? I'm not very happy with my current anti-seize but I have not found a better one yet.


Also, I get really bad transfer on my rear rotors on the Boss with the oem pads and rotors.
 
CaliMR said:
Is that a replacement for the anti-seize or is it in addition? I'm not very happy with my current anti-seize but I have not found a better one yet...

I dont want to get off topic, but CaliMR, i've used this brake lube on my corolla with great success at the track.

CeramicExtreme.jpg

I use it to lube the pins and the back of the pad where the caliper piston meets. prior to using this product, i melted a set of caliper piston dust boots. after using this product, i havent melted any dust boots at the track, and keeps things quiet.
so i greatly recommend it. now i dont know if brembo brakes require/dont require lube, haven't looked into the boss brakes yet.
i got mine from advance auto, so it is something that you could find at your local stores.
 

zzyzx

Steve
299
0
Thanks for the feedback, guys!

I see two of you confirmed part number CT1082 for the rear, but the Carbotech fitment guide says CT1465, and the quote I received from KNS Brakes is also for CT1465.

Perhaps this is an updated part number? Any thoughts?

Thanks!
 
zzyzx said:
Thanks for the feedback, guys!

I see two of you confirmed part number CT1082 for the rear, but the Carbotech fitment guide says CT1465, and the quote I received from KNS Brakes is also for CT1465.

Perhaps this is an updated part number? Any thoughts?

Thanks!

i remember reading a thread on this site, stating carbotech's catalog part # for the rear was incorrect. CT1082 might be the correct one.
 
You can't go wrong with Pagids. Pete is now a Pagid distributor! Give Pete a pm.He has the best prices!
His web site is www.trackdaysolutions.com
But you really need is floating racing rotors sloted not drilled.And proper racing brake fluid.
My 02
Gary what are you using for rotors?
 

KNS Brakes

Supporting Vendor
292
20
Cary NC
I just wanted to confirm the rear part number issue.

The original rear pad shape for 05+ Mustangs ("D1082" is the standardized number for aftermarket pad makers)

10x10820.jpg


viewDetails.aspx


Often minor changes are made to pads by the OEM.

Current rear pad shape

D1465

10x14650.jpg


viewDetails.aspx


You can see the pads are nearly identical and what users learned is that the old shape will work in the newer rear caliper brackets.

Hawk only makes 1 pad to cover both - HB485 - and that is not uncommon especially in race pads.

This is not uncommon at all.

Direct links - not sure why they won't display.

http://centric.cataloglookup.com/Inquiry/viewDetails.aspx?p=106.14650&a=1058943&ic=1&i=1&

http://centric.cataloglookup.com/Inquiry/viewDetails.aspx?p=106.10820&a=1119818&ic=1&i=1&
 

zzyzx

Steve
299
0
Thanks for the clarification, KNS!

And thanks for the quick turn-around and great service on my order.

Just to bring everybody up to speed, I went with the XP12s F and XP10s R.

I'll be running them on stock rotors. I'm also looking for the brake parts lubricant posted by F.D. Sako. I think that'll be key to avoid the dreaded squeal.

I also ordered the Titanium backing plates and Motul RBF 600.
 

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