Carbotech brake pads

[cloud9]

Gary what are you using for rotors?

I'm back in evaluation mode. I was using DBA 5000 front and 4000 rears the past 4 seasons. I'm not finding the durability to be worth the expense and I've run them both cryo and non-cryo treated with no obvious benefit to the cryo treatment. I slapped on a set of used stockers at Road America last summer after cracking my 5000s and a set of used 4000s (yes had to swap front rotors twice during one event) and they didn't even heat check! I ran Frozen Rotors slotted at the end of last season but both sets heat checked after the first weekend even though they haven't cracked yet, so they don't appear to be any better than OEM blanks. I'll finish them off in the spring but am going to just try OEM blanks, or Brembo slotted that Steevespo turned me onto.

Brembo Sport line. Zinc dichromate washed and slotted. Catalog # is 33S60195

Of course I run the "dreaded" DTC70 Hawk pads that everyone likes to complain about The one thing that's certain is they do stop the car versus others I've tried that last longer but require a longer braking zone.

I do plan to give Pete's Pagid pads a try this year though.

 

[JScheier]

blah, blah, blah... I slapped on a set of used stockers at Road America last summer after cracking my 5000s and a set of used 4000s (yes had to swap front rotors twice during one event) and they didn't even heat check!

Hmmm... seems that I remember someone mentioning that stockers were the most cost effective and longer lasting rotors... who could that have been?

 

[cloud9]

Hmmm... seems that I remember someone mentioning that stockers were the most cost effective and longer lasting rotors... who could that have been?

LOL Captain Obvious!

 

[cloud9]

LOL Captain Obvious!

BTW what pads are you running now?

 

[JScheier]

Cobalt Friction:

Front: COBALT XR1: FMSI D1001 (x-list with FMSI D1016,
D1049, D1050) (15.3mm)

Rear: COBALT XR4: FMSI D1082 (16.5MM)

 

[Bill Pemberton]

Am using Carbotech 20s on the front, and 8s on the backs. They do need proper bedding, but they stop like a mofo. Really think one should go with at least 12s on the fronts, as have used 10s on my Viper and though they worked well they wore really quickly. With the weight of the Boss, would expect similar wear for those who are heavy brakers.

Would have to go with Cloud on the rotor idea, as I have the DBA 5000s on the front and am just not that impressed. Like him I am thinking of going stock or possibly looking into the Girotechs -- know those guys and we have worked with them in the past and now all the rotors are built stateside.

 

[zzyzx]

Just wanted to report back.

So, I now have the XP12 F / XP10 R. Install of the pads was uneventful, no surprises there. Note that I also installed the HardBrakes Ti heat shields - 0.5mm thick on the F. Based on clearance, I would recommend the 1mm thick versions, as they'd fit w/o issue and provide enhanced heat resistance.

I used liberal amounts of the anti-squeal mentioned earlier in this thread. I bedded them in properly - per the instructions. I have occasional squeal, but nothing irritating at all.

I don't yet have track time on the pads, but did an autox last Sunday. The grip of the pads are about where they should be - drastic improvement over stock.

I noticed that on the rear the stainless backing plates were essentially glued onto the pads - I had to pry them off. The anti-squeal I used in place of that "goop" does not hold the SS plate onto the pad nearly as well. I believe this is why they tend to squeal. It would be nice to find a compound that would work like the OEM goop does.

I haven't yet flushed the system as I'm waiting to get a set of SS braided lines from KNS. Once I do, I'll flush with RBF600.

 

[KBBOSS1086]

I'm also using xp12 F / xp10 R on stock rotors. They are very good on the track and not too loud on the street. I'm on my second set of fronts - 1st set lasted 4 days at NJMP and 2 days at Watkins Glen. The second set is ready to be replaced after only 3 days at Pocono - North course, which requires far less braking then the Glen or even NJMP. The rears are still well over 1/2 left.

I'm not very expereinced with track pads but on the 1st set of xp12's I installed the stock backing plates. When I ordered the 2nd set (direct from Carbotech) I asked them if I shoud be using backing plates. I was surprised when they told me "no" - "they were designed to not be used with backing plates".

Due to the dramatic difference in pad life I've expereinced, I'm wondering if using the backing plates really increase the pad life or of it's just coincidence that I got twice as many days with them than without.

Has anyone experienced anything like this?

 

[zzyzx]

I'm not very expereinced with track pads but on the 1st set of xp12's I installed the stock backing plates. When I ordered the 2nd set (direct from Carbotech) I asked them if I shoud be using backing plates. I was surprised when they told me "no" - "they were designed to not be used with backing plates".

Due to the dramatic difference in pad life I've expereinced, I'm wondering if using the backing plates really increase the pad life or of it's just coincidence that I got twice as many days with them than without.

Has anyone experienced anything like this?

You should never run w/o the backing plates. There are two reasons for this:

1. Resonance. The backing plates act as a "damper" of sorts, particularly when you use a good anti-squeal compound (like the OEM does). This helps cancel out vibrations that would otherwise go right into the caliper piston.

2. Thermal barrier. The backing plates are a thermal barrier. Just their presence drastically reduces heat transfer from the pad to the caliper. Removal will exacerbate heat stress and wear.

Regarding point #2, the titanium backing plates are highly recommended. See my earlier post. You can get these from KNS and they are worth every penny.

 

[VoodooBoss]

You should never run w/o the backing plates. There are two reasons for this:

1. Resonance. The backing plates act as a "damper" of sorts, particularly when you use a good anti-squeal compound (like the OEM does). This helps cancel out vibrations that would otherwise go right into the caliper piston.

2. Thermal barrier. The backing plates are a thermal barrier. Just their presence drastically reduces heat transfer from the pad to the caliper. Removal will exacerbate heat stress and wear.

Regarding point #2, the titanium backing plates are highly recommended. See my earlier post. You can get these from KNS and they are worth every penny.

Excellent post. Thanks!

 

[KBBOSS1086]

You should never run w/o the backing plates. There are two reasons for this:

1. Resonance. The backing plates act as a "damper" of sorts, particularly when you use a good anti-squeal compound (like the OEM does). This helps cancel out vibrations that would otherwise go right into the caliper piston.

2. Thermal barrier. The backing plates are a thermal barrier. Just their presence drastically reduces heat transfer from the pad to the caliper. Removal will exacerbate heat stress and wear.

Regarding point #2, the titanium backing plates are highly recommended. See my earlier post. You can get these from KNS and they are worth every penny.

Thanks for the info - I will put a set on when I change on Sunday. I didn't get a good feeling about not using them when the guy from Carbotech told me not to. I've definitely seen far more wear without them but am surprised that the info/recommendation from the mfg was not accurate.