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Check your strut mount nuts....

I was at the track today and after the first session I went to adjust my damper and noticed the nut had backed all the way to the top of the strut tower. If I didn't have them tipped all the way in it would have backed completely off the damper. I turned the nut down to seat it and when it was almost all the way down it just spins and is loose on the shaft which must mean the threads are completely gone. I raised the car on that side and the strut slid to the middle of the opening which means all the camber plate bolts had loosened as well. The nut on the driver side hadn't backed out like the passenger side but was only finger tight. :eek:. Unfortunately I have am sure the passenger side damper is ruined. Hopefully nothing else. The glass half full side of it is I saw it before I lost the strut and really had an issue. The other positive is hopefully I can get it sorted out before the Roundup 9/21-9/23.
 
Camber plates are one of the spots that it is good to just stick a wrench on and see if they are tight before each track day. Once they get loose it will tear the threads off, so I would guess they got loose from vibes then tore the threads. I use lock washers on mine on the track car, I've been told not to locktite them but I don't know why.
 
CaliMR said:
Camber plates are one of the spots that it is good to just stick a wrench on and see if they are tight before each track day. Once they get loose it will tear the threads off, so I would guess they got loose from vibes then tore the threads. I use lock washers on mine on the track car, I've been told not to locktite them but I don't know why.
It wasn't the camber plate bolts coming loose that caused the strut nut to loosen. It's after the strut nut loosened that I'm sure the camber plate bolts got loose. The nut sits inside the strut tower with the struts tipped in so you can't even get a wrench on it anyway. I am going to have them hog the strut mount hole out and then hit it with touchup paint so I can get a socket on it in the future.
 

drano38

Wayne
1,130
318
Doing autocross at Surgis Mustang Rally in morning. Better check them first.
Thanks for the info.
 
ace72ace said:
What's the torque spec?
For the MM c/c plates or the strut retaining nut?

The four 8mm MM c/c nuts get 20 ft lbs and the one 10mm caster nut gets 26 ft lbs. If you have the factory strut mounts, they get 26 ft lbs.

The retaining nut on the factory strut assembly gets 76 ft lbs. I need to find the instructions for the M-18000-C damper to confirm if it's the same.
 
I am wondering if there is a special wrench to turn the nut so you can hold the inner damper shaft while you torque the nut? My shaft starts turning while loosening or tightening the nut with a socket. The manual shows that you have to hold the inner shaft while turning the nut with a wrench but on our 2012 the nut is sunken down a 1/2" into the strut mount. Is there a proper way to torque this while holding the damper shaft so it doesn't turn with the nut?

I rigged a deep well socket to turn the nut while using a smaller 1/4" socket extension as an inner shaft to hold the damper from turning. This worked for now, but doesn't seem like the proper way to do it. I am using the stock dampers with the new springs and MM mounts.
 

JScheier

Too Hot for the Boss!
Did the new dampers come with new nuts? Those nuts (nylock) should be one-time use.

If you were using the OEM nut, then you can reuse, but I usually put a dab of thread sealer on them to keep them from coming lose.
 
I have the same 18000C dampers as Cloud9 and my driver side was not installed properly and was loose by the time I got home from the installation. I drove it like that for 700 miles including a track day at Laguna Seca. Afterwards it was tightened properly. I checked it again yesterday and sure enough it was a bit loose, about 1/8th of a turn. I'm not positive mine have blue loctite on them but I'm going to add some. I wish FR had used nylocks. ::)
 

JScheier

Too Hot for the Boss!
The other thing to do / try is to tighten them OFF the car... and then install the entire package. But with the OEM nut (which is flipping HUGE)... definitely want to put some loctite or other sealant on there.

Vorshlag sells the smaller metric nyloc nut... and I think someone found the part at Lowes (although a lower grade) and posted the part number.
 
JScheier said:
The other thing to do / try is to tighten them OFF the car... and then install the entire package. But with the OEM nut (which is flipping HUGE)... definitely want to put some loctite or other sealant on there.

Vorshlag sells the smaller metric nyloc nut... and I think someone found the part at Lowes (although a lower grade) and posted the part number.
I purchased the nylocs from Vorshlag but they don't fit the 18000C dampers. They 18000C dampers are larger than the stock adjustable dampers.
 
I'm going to make sure they put loctite on the retaining nuts before reinstalling. As Rick pointed out they FRPP dampers come with their own (non-nylock) retaining nuts. I'm hoping FRPP warrants the damper(s). The passenger side is obviously broken, but won't know about the driver side until we get it out of the car. I'm already in for about $500 in wasted fuel, hotel room and registration fee, so don't really want to be buying new dampers after 3 months and only 10 track days of use.
 

JScheier

Too Hot for the Boss!
Gary - Did you get this resolved? Do you need my OEM boss dampers to use until you do get it resolved? Don't want you missing out on Hastings!
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
Moderator
8,545
2,376
Arizona, USA
Ouch. Usually that is noticeable and manifests itself as a rattling/clunking while driving before it becomes catastrophic. Glad you saw it in time. A nylock is definitely the way to go if you can find one in the right size...when in doubt, try ACE Hardware.
 
JScheier said:
Gary - Did you get this resolved? Do you need my OEM boss dampers to use until you do get it resolved? Don't want you missing out on Hastings!
Thanks man. I was starting to think I might have to bring my "tank" GT500. MM shipped new stud plates, hardware and inserts and I will have damper by early next week so looks like we will make it. My buddy is sourcing a crow's foot so I can torque that retaining nut after track days going forward. I am actually just up the road from you right now in Steamboat Springs on a golf trip with several customers.
 

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