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SN95 Chris' 351w Swapped 1995 Build Thread Profile - SN95 Mustangs

Bill Pemberton

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Welcome from the Ozark State and I would sure look into the Apex Rims over the SVEs , but really like your idea of getting some bigger rubber. Running 315/18 BFG gforce R1Ss on my Boss and am liking their longevity compared to the Hoosiers. Love the Hoosiers, but I was going through them too quickly and though they heat up a bit slower they stay more consistent long races..............about 250-300 cheaper for a full set also.

Check out the Mustang Roundup in Hastings ,Ne. coming this October. Another Mustang Bucket List event and often a showcase of new stuff from Ford ( 3-8 Ford Engineers come down from Dearborn to run their track machines ). Go too www.racemph.com and cool mods on your SN95!!!!

PS -Apex is a site sponsor, rims are hub centric, and they have a big Sale right now!
 

GimpyHSHS

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Starting to get some more SN95 profiles/build threads in here... very cool! Hope to see some track day recaps and build progress from your journey. 🤘
Thanks!! I just stumbled across this site for the first time yesterday, so I figured I would join up.

I actually JUST got some videos uploaded from Hallett this weekend. I don't have a big name channel or anything, but I have started uploading my AutoX Runs and track videos from the past couple weeks.


Welcome from the Ozark State and I would sure look into the Apex Rims over the SVEs , but really like your idea of getting some bigger rubber. Running 315/18 BFG gforce R1Ss on my Boss and am liking their longevity compared to the Hoosiers. Love the Hoosiers, but I was going through them too quickly and though they heat up a bit slower they stay more consistent long races..............about 250-300 cheaper for a full set also.
The Apex wheels look really good, but they are about double the price of the S350s, which is what pushes me toward those. Ballin on a budget especially with revamping the suspension setup so much. Im hoping to have the suspension done by early next year before AutoX and track days really get going, so I will already be eating a lot of Ramen noodles with the plan I have now lol.

I also have a forged 408w with AFR heads in the plans someday. Just got to get around...ten thousand bucks set aside...ironic, isn't it? The more you spend the faster you go. The faster you go, the more you break. The more you break...the more you spend! Rinse, wash, repeat.

Check out the Mustang Roundup in Hastings ,Ne. coming this October. Another Mustang Bucket List event and often a showcase of new stuff from Ford ( 3-8 Ford Engineers come down from Dearborn to run their track machines ). Go too www.racemph.com and cool mods on your SN95!!!!
Great info! I had read about the event somewhere, but didn't know much about it. I will have to see if I can swing it. I mentioned going on a Tunica casino trip and hitting the NASCAR race at Talladega on Sunday, October 4th to my dad and brother just last weekend. They seemed interested, but you never know.
 

Bill Pemberton

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Many of us have had the S350s, but the hub centric Apex rims fit a ton better. Easy to go square with spacers up front, and then rotate those donuts ------ looking to save you money in the long run. What's wrong with Ramen, we have all eaten those noodles , just a sign of more important items gear heads spend money on ha, ha. Bring them along, or have them drive up in another Mustang , and the whole family can get some track time instead of watching some one else on track.
Did I mention the partying ---- there were some years we put the Talledega infield to shame, ha.
 

GimpyHSHS

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Many of us have had the S350s, but the hub centric Apex rims fit a ton better. Easy to go square with spacers up front, and then rotate those donuts ------ looking to save you money in the long run.
I'll keep that in mind...I do want wheels that can take some track abuse, so if others have been down that road before, I'll steer clear of the SVE wheels. Rather do it right than do it twice, I guess.

What's wrong with Ramen, we have all eaten those noodles , just a sign of more important items gear heads spend money on ha, ha.
Nothing wrong with Ramen whatsoever, it just gets old! And it's unhealthy! I'm only 3 years removed from living in the college dorms and a diet consisting solely of cafe food, Ramen noodles, and beer got me fat. Trying to eat my veggies now and scrub some off so I can go faster 😄

Bring them along, or have them drive up in another Mustang , and the whole family can get some track time instead of watching some one else on track.
Did I mention the partying ---- there were some years we put the Talledega infield to shame, ha.
Maybe I can convince them to come and bring the GT. In my humble and broke opinion, they ought to be taking that to every track possible.

Partying sounds pretty fun...if I show up, I'll need to know about those...
 

PaddyPrix

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Nothing wrong with Ramen whatsoever, it just gets old! And it's unhealthy! I'm only 3 years removed from living in the college dorms and a diet consisting solely of cafe food, Ramen noodles, and beer got me fat. Trying to eat my veggies now and scrub some off so I can go faster 😄
You don't even have that much to scrub as you're, what 3100# in that SN-95? That puts you around an E46 BMW, and toss and remove a thing here and there and you're probably down to 2800.
 

GimpyHSHS

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You don't even have that much to scrub as you're, what 3100# in that SN-95? That puts you around an E46 BMW, and toss and remove a thing here and there and you're probably down to 2800.
Yeah, except when I went into my senior year of high school, I weighed 197 (I wrestled and walked my weight). When I went to college, I was 220. Now I'm 372...My car might not weigh a lot, but I more than make up for it. I meant eat my veggies literally! 😂😂😂

On the car, I think SN95 from the factory was a little closer to 3300. I did put aluminum heads on, but I put a 351w in, too, so I think it's closer to a wash. Lighter wheels offset by wider tires and bigger rotors and calipers. That pretty much goes for everything on the car, too. One part came off, a new one went on. I'd say I am right at factory weight. I need to find someone with corner weights so I can check out my starting point and evaluate changes as I make them.

As far as taking weight out, I have to stay good for AutoX. Have to keep it a "street car", meaning "no race car interior". But that doesn't mean I can't pull the carpet and remove the stuff on the floor pans. I could put in ultra thin, lightweight carpet. Pull the rear seat and put in some aluminum panels covered with carpet (or just painted would be ok, I think). Removing power seat tracks. Motion Raceworks steering column. And ALL of those changes will just about make up for the roll cage 🙃 that's the way it goes for us flexible chassis owners. Light, but weak.

The MM stuff should help a bit. I'm just as interested in balancing the car out as I am total weight for AutoX purposes. They say the K Member and coilover kit will take 36# off the nose. AC is gone, condenser, compressor, lines, etc. I'm gonna set the engine back 1" on the new K. K and MM control arms put the wheels 1.5" forward. Etc.

Fun times ahead!
 

PaddyPrix

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The MM stuff should help a bit. I'm just as interested in balancing the car out as I am total weight for AutoX purposes. They say the K Member and coilover kit will take 36# off the nose. AC is gone, condenser, compressor, lines, etc. I'm gonna set the engine back 1" on the new K. K and MM control arms put the wheels 1.5" forward. Etc.
:)
Yeah, back in the day, the MM kits were arguably the best, or depending on what side you chose regarding Panhard Bar vs Watts Link, Griggs was equally as good. Perhaps you're right on the weight though, I remember my 'vert being like 3450. They're truly a blast though, kinda wish I didn't termy swap mine, would love to get it on the track once again. Definitely watching this one though, 95 Cobra R still my fave Cobra.
 

GimpyHSHS

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I picked up some Falken Azenis RT615K+ in 275/35/18 tonight. I was leaning toward the Bridgestone Potenza RE-71Rs for AutoCrossing, but then Tire Rack had to go and have a deal on the Falkens...$157 each. Versus $270ish/e for the Bridgestones. They will do for now and should be MUCH better than the Nexen N7000 All-Seasons. They will at least get me through AutoX for the rest of this season and I don't have any track days on my calendar right now. Should have them here middle of next week.

Kinda wish I had just gotten some a week ago, before I went to Hallett, but that deal wasn't offered last week when I looked...I was watching for a good deal like that. There's always next time.
 

GimpyHSHS

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I mentioned in the OP that I had gone to Hallett Thursday and Friday, June 18-19. The car wasn't running quite right. It was down on power, wouldn't run without bucking under 3000 RPM, didn't have any real power till 4000. At 4000, it would come alive and take off, but then wouldn't run past 5-5500. This happened suddenly, one run it felt fine, the next it didn't.

I'm not sure where the loss of power came from. I sent the guy who does my tuning datalogs from the run with my dad on the Thursday night we were at the track. He modified the tune and sent it back. We put new spark plugs in on Friday morning and uploaded the new tune. The car still felt pretty flat. Lurched and chugged in gear at anything below 3000 RPM. Even at 3000 RPM, it had no power, then around 4000 it would take off, then wouldn't rev over 5000. Not cool, car, not cool. I took some datalogs that I am planning to send back to the tuning guy tonight.

I started doing some diagnosing this weekend. Started off verifying the fuel pressure was still at 60 PSI. Looked good, at least with the car off and at idle.

Then I wanted to rule out a worn distributor gear being the issue. If the gear were worn, it may cause timing at the engine to be different than what the Sniper is programmed to command. So I set the Sniper to "static timing" at 20* and put a timing light on the engine. Timing was dead on 20* and stayed there perfectly while revving the engine up and on decel. The better thing to do would probably be pull the distributor, BUT I think the static timing check is good enough to eliminate that for now. With how bad it was running, it would've had to be REALLY off, and it wasn't even off by a degree when I was checking.

So I pulled the valve covers next. I checked the rocker arm adjustment, and everything looked ok. I'll put a feeler gauge on the rockers in the near future (since it was about time to adjust them anyway), but none of them were loose enough to have caused the breaking up I was feeling on the track. No excessive play in the pushrods that would indicate a wiped cam lobe. No wear on the valve stems.

Compression was 120 on all cylinders, which is what it was last I checked 6 months ago (That compression seems low for an 11:1 engine, but I think dynamic compression is just a lot lower because of the cam size and the 41* of overlap. I also was only letting each cylinder "hit" three times with throttle closed, mainly because that's how I had done it last time and wanted a good comparison).

That's as far as I got for now. I will do a leak down test as soon as the tester comes in (my cousin didn't have one at the shop, and wanted one anyway, so he went ahead and ordered it). Then I'll reset the rockers to .020" lash.

I have just been checking fuel pressure at the bypass regulator. I am going to try to check it while driving next. The Sniper has 3 inlets for fuel and one return port. I am going to hook a gauge up to one of the other ports on the Sniper and stick it under the windshield wiper so I can watch actual fuel pressure at the Sniper while driving.

Anyone have anything else I ought to be checking? Advice is very much welcome and appreciated!
 

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