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Clutch assist spring good or bad open thread

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daddyfixer said:
I have changed the following items on my Boss relating to the shifting situation. The trans fluid to Redline Mtl, The brake clutch fluid to Motul 600, and I replaced the restricted line to the clutch, and had the MGW shifter changed out by George in Augusta, along with a test drive with him on the best way to shift his unit. The car appears to shift considerly better, or at least I am shifting it better. I can see some merit in removing the back up spring on the pedal assembly which I will do when I get back from a trip on Monday. The only other thing that I can think of is to change out the OEM motor mounts. Something in the back of my mind keeps telling me that under a heavy tourqe load at high RPM, the engine rocks on the mounts when shifting under high RPMs possibly causing everything to twist whether you power shift or just shift normally. Just a thought, but I will be changing them out also to stiffer mounts.
Make it easy on yourself and look into the CHE torque limiter first.

http://www.cheperformance.com/CartGenie/prod-318.htm
 
Just popped this off tonight. Did take a little bit of work to get the pin out, but wasn't too bad. I did note how the spring load gives non linear force feedback. I could feel this when depressing the clutch with my hand. Just went for a spirited drive and like it much better without the spring.

I never had any of the shifting issues others are reporting, probably cause I drive like an old lady, but I also bled the clutch while I was doing this and now my clutch engages noticeably higher than before, so I definitely had some air in that line.
 
SVT1 said:
Some very good points here from everyone.

Jeep- very interested in your results. Thanks for sharing all this info so far. I bought the clutch line but don't know where it goes under the firewall, and haven't sorted out installing it yet!

I'd like to try the spring deal first though. Sounds like valid theory and results.

Remember the only thing I have proven so far 100% is the spring pressure is very high and removing it fixed my shifts except for the 1st to 2nd. I have had contact with my dealer and they are 100% cooperative on helping in anyway they can so I am going to start with paying for the clutch line to be replaced with the upgraded one I bought online and they will do it at a much cheaper price since they were already going to do the clutch fluid bleeding for me. I am very lucky I have one of the best dealers. I did take measurements on a comparator of the top and bottom bodies that hold the spring in place and now need to do the same for the clutch pedal so I can figure out if it can bind or not. need people to check their removed springs for wear/rubbing marks on the black end on one side mine has this and I believe it could have been hurting the performance as any design like this should not rub anywhere.
 
I would not remove it if there is not a problem that is not what this writeup is about. These are problems I am haveing and cannot determin that it is something with every car YET. But yes notice how all of a sudden you have a tiny bit of top play in the clutch pedal as there should be after removing that spring. I am thinking of making an simple bolt or self clamping adjustment for taking some of the play out if it bothers me.
 
jeepinocala said:
I would not remove it if there is not a problem that is not what this writeup is about. These are problems I am haveing and cannot determin that it is something with every car YET. But yes notice how all of a sudden you have a tiny bit of top play in the clutch pedal as there should be after removing that spring. I am thinking of making an simple bolt or self clamping adjustment for taking some of the play out if it bothers me.

Also check if there is a tiny lip/catch in the white plastic spring end retainer where it was supposed to be chamfered. I am a machinist and have seen a ton of people chamfer parts in my life time that leave a burr in the chamfer mine has one it is small but will catch the spring black guide pin for sure.
 
I pulled my spring this mourning, a little heavier feeling, which is a good thing to me. This the way it should have been built from the factory. It now gives you a better feeling clutch.
 
I think they did this for long track time to help your leg from tireing but if thats the situation then I believe it was a waste I never herd of someone wanting this. It takes away from the feel of the clutch. I have consulted several of our engineers at work one particular his backround is Navy nuclear sub engineer for 6 years then turned medical engineer for over 10 years well you get the point the first thing that came out of his mouth was why would you want anything pushing on your clutch pedal besides your foot? Ok so that was 90 percent of our engineers first thought that has a clue on cars. Really this was my first thought I figured the clutch had to be this super strong clutch that needed the spring good one huh. My dealer is going to bleed my clutch and possibly install my aftermarket clutch line but not until I get the facts on it helping or doing nothing.
 
For what it's worth. I had the TSB for the dual clutch fluid done and installed a MGW and I have never had the clutch stick. I am really good at power shifting and maybe I hit the clutch so fast it doesn't have time to stick, I don't know but I seldom ever miss a gear. I also saw this. I originally posted that I didn't believe the spring was the problem or only problem. But this makes sense.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eg1h7Y__Vcc
 

Justin

Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
regalt87 said:
For what it's worth. I had the TSB for the dual clutch fluid done and installed a MGW and I have never had the clutch stick. I am really good at power shifting and maybe I hit the clutch so fast it doesn't have time to stick, I don't know but I seldom ever miss a gear. I also saw this. I originally posted that I didn't believe the spring was the problem or only problem. But this makes sense.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eg1h7Y__Vcc
he said right at the end a 2011 GT500 clutch pedal assembly is the fix. any videos of what is different about that pedal assembly?
 
Great video now let me add that spring look like it give just a small jolt but our lab tested it fully pressed it puts out just over 148ft pounds of pressure and the clutch is at a lower spot on the pedal so that means the leverage is working against it from returning back up but ontop of that I need to check and see just how far the spring is moving from top to bottom to see if it could bind at the end. Yes we do need a link to another clutch pedal assembly on here.
 
Let me add now that the spring has been out for a week I love it and have had zero problems so next is the line and have my dealer bleed it ;D
 

Dvendet

Everyone's entitled to my opinion. ;)
jeepinocala said:
Let me add now that the spring has been out for a week I love it and have had zero problems so next is the line and have my dealer bleed it ;D
Jeep,
When are you getting the bleed and new line installed? Also, are you getting the clutch line from Lethal Performance or somewhere else? Finally, if it is not to much effort, would it be possible to do a write-up and include it in the "How-to" forum on how to install the new clutch line?

Thanks,

MMD
 
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Just removed my clutch pedal spring.

Big difference in clutch feel now. The pedal springs back up off the floor very quickly and smoothly now. When removing the spring, you can clearly tell that this spring is holding the clutch pedal to the floor on these high rpm shifts before. I can't wait to get it on the track and see how the 3-4 shift is now. Previously I couldn't get the shifter into 4th over 7200 rpm.

I did just test drive it somewhat hard and the shifts felt great and the pedal, for the first time, exuded a high level of confidence.

I have the line too but until I can figure out how to install it, this will have to do. I called JHR about installing the clutch line and was on hold for so long I eventually hung up.
 

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